3:57 am
July 15, 2005
Offline
This will be a slow build over the next few months, but I am starting with a 1979 Ford F-350 snow fighter edition high pinion Dana 60 axle. It is currently 69.5 inches WMS to WMS. I will cut it down to 66 WMS for my Jeep.. Below are pictures of the way the axle is now. 😯
I finished sandblasting the axle just before dark, so I will post photos of it all cleaned up and primed. Next step is to shorten the axle tubes. I will take 2 1/2 inches off the short side and 1 1/2 off the long side and then weld on new Deadbender C's..
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1:44 pm
How much are you planning to do? All the welding, gear setup, etc. or are you going to be more of your own General Contractor? Either way, very cool. Thanks for posting it, I'll be paying close attention. 8)
3:04 pm
July 15, 2005
Offline I will seek help on installing the gears since I don't have the tools, and I have never done it before. I will do all the welding, bracket fabrication,building the axle, and bolting it up to the Jeep. Once the axle is on the jeep, I will build the steering, trackbar and swaybar mounts.
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'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
12:24 am
thought you were getting a custom built axle. what happen to that?
1:47 am
July 15, 2005
Offline 8k all said and done for a new one, about 5k if I build one...that extra 3k can be spent on extras!!!!!!
"uglyjeep" wrote: thought you were getting a custom built axle. what happen to that?
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'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
3:26 am
July 15, 2005
Offline Tested out the flex today to see where else I need to trim. The rear is no problem, I have plenty of room back there and room to drop to a 3 inch lift spring like I want to do. The front still needs some work. I need about another inch or 2 of clearance behind the front wheels. Hopefully I will be able to move the front 2 inches forward like I want, If not, I will have to modify my Tube fenders or build new ones. Keep in mind that I am running the 40's the same way I did my 37's. I am limiting my travel to 5 inches of up travel and 6 inches of down travel which still gives me plenty of flex.
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__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
3:30 am
July 15, 2005
Offline Here is what my axle looks like after I sand blasted it and painted it. Next step is to remove the old F-350 brackets and get rid of the crappy Ford Knuckles.
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'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
1:16 am
July 15, 2005
Offline Front clearance problem is resolved, I pushed the front axle forward another 1 1/2 inches. The only thing I need to do this winter is move the trackbar frame bracket forward and inch or so. I also pushed the rear axle back another inch and still have another inch I can go. I will do that later since I will have to build a longer driveshaft. My wheel base is at just over 102 inches? Once the new front axle is in, this winter I will move the steering box forward and stretch the front about 4 more inches getting me to about 106 inches overall.
One other thing I have found is that 65.5 WMS isn't wide enough for 40 inch tires. At full turn, you hit the frame in front of the tires and will rip off any after market swaybar system you might have. At a minimum, you will need to be at around 67 WMS.
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'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
2:20 am
"RobD" wrote: One other thing I have found is that 65.5 WMS isn't wide enough for 40 inch tires. At full turn, you hit the frame in front of the tires and will rip off any after market swaybar system you might have. At a minimum, you will need to be at around 67 WMS.
Are you going to scrap your original 66" plan and go wider? Keep it full sized? What about Barrett Lake?
1:30 pm
July 15, 2005
Offline I have not decided that yet. I will probably cut it to 67.5..I need to measure the outside tire width to decide. I know full widths can make it through the gate at Barrett, but you have to squeez the tire through!!!
"Bender" wrote: [quote="RobD"]One other thing I have found is that 65.5 WMS isn't wide enough for 40 inch tires. At full turn, you hit the frame in front of the tires and will rip off any after market swaybar system you might have. At a minimum, you will need to be at around 67 WMS.
Are you going to scrap your original 66" plan and go wider? Keep it full sized? What about Barrett Lake?
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
1:53 am
July 15, 2005
Offline Got some work done today and some parts 8) Lee came over for a bit to drop off some more money for my front axle. He is looking forward to having a built axle up front with an air locker. I know the feeling, because I want my axle done!!!!!!
Today I got all the old brackets cut off and the tubes cleaned and ready for the new TJ brackets. I also got my new Ried Racing king pin chevy knuckles, steering arm, and king pin rebuild kit 😀 Once I get the new king pins on, I will fit and position the axle and measure for the placement of the new TJ brackets and weld them on.
I have decided that I am going to leave the axle full width at 69.5 WMS which is 4 inches wider than I am now.
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__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
2:20 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Purdy
I used to wheel a lot. . .
2:45 am
December 18, 2002
Offline Nice 8)
Out in the garage collecting parts....
3:04 am
July 15, 2005
Offline After working on a King Pin, you realize how easy it is to work on a ball joint knuckle. I can pull a ball joint front end apart in minutes, but the King pin has bearings, seals, springs, a ton of bolts, etc. The king pin fitting is torqued to 600lbs..Try getting that off by yourself 😯 😯 
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
3:06 am
"RobD" wrote:
I have decided that I am going to leave the axle full width at 69.5 WMS which is 4 inches wider than I am now.
Very cool. Have you figured out how wide you're going to be from outside of tire to outside of tire? How big of a spacer will you need for the rear?
3:15 am
May 4, 2004
Offline "RobD" wrote: The king pin fitting is torqued to 600lbs..Try getting that off by yourself 😯 😯
😯
That would definitely not be an easy trail repair!!!
3:29 am
July 15, 2005
Offline I am 81 inches tire to tire now, so full width should put me at about 85 inches tire to tire..I am 80 1/2 inches tire to tire in the rear. I will run 1 1/4 inch spacers on each side putting me at 83 inches..leaving me 1 inch wider on each side in the front which is the ideal set up. If it ends up being to wide for my liking, I will shorten it down the road.
"Bender" wrote: [quote="RobD"]
I have decided that I am going to leave the axle full width at 69.5 WMS which is 4 inches wider than I am now.
Very cool. Have you figured out how wide you're going to be from outside of tire to outside of tire? How big of a spacer will you need for the rear?
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
3:39 am
July 15, 2005
Offline Luckily it doesn't have to be changed all that often, the only reason I am changing the king pin fitting now is the one that is on there is 30 years old..
"FAM" wrote: [quote="RobD"]The king pin fitting is torqued to 600lbs..Try getting that off by yourself 😯 😯
😯
That would definitely not be an easy trail repair!!!
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
3:44 am
May 4, 2004
Offline So the cone shaped part that the bearing rides on is the actual kingpin and is the part torqued to 600 ft/lb? I could see why it's torqued so tight and that it wouldn't need to be replaced very often. How do you hold on to it to keep it from spinning while you torque it down? Is it keyed or something?
2:58 pm
July 15, 2005
Offline It takes a magnum 7/8 inch hex key!!!!!
"FAM" wrote: So the cone shaped part that the bearing rides on is the actual kingpin and is the part torqued to 600 ft/lb? I could see why it's torqued so tight and that it wouldn't need to be replaced very often. How do you hold on to it to keep it from spinning while you torque it down? Is it keyed or something?
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'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
3:04 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
Offline "RobD" wrote: It takes a magnum 7/8 inch hex key!!!!!
[quote="FAM"]So the cone shaped part that the bearing rides on is the actual kingpin and is the part torqued to 600 ft/lb? I could see why it's torqued so tight and that it wouldn't need to be replaced very often. How do you hold on to it to keep it from spinning while you torque it down? Is it keyed or something?
So, how do you get the leverage with a hex key? Do you add a bar to it? I'm guessing the key would need to be a quality one, rather than a harbor freight model like I have.
3:08 pm
July 15, 2005
Offline It will take a 3/4 inch impact gun, or a 4 to 5 foot breaker bar...I think Harbor Freight tools would work, 7/8 inch hex is just a huge chunk of steel with the edges shaved off.
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'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
3:37 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
Offline "RobD" wrote: It will take a 3/4 inch impact gun, or a 4 to 5 foot breaker bar...I think Harbor Freight tools would work, 7/8 inch hex is just a huge chunk of steel with the edges shaved off.
An impact gun and WD-40 should do it. I've rounded off my smaller harbor freight hex keys.
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