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noizzez
February 8, 2008
2:59 am
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JohnDF
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"Justin" wrote: And...really John, if you want me to help, I will.

Okay, okay, I'll wait for you to come look at them tomorrow. It'll be better to have somebody who knows what they are doing take a look at it.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 8, 2008
4:58 am
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Justin
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What time is good for you?

February 8, 2008
5:20 am
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JohnDF
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Whenever you get off work. Remember, I have the brutal 3 hour work day tomorrow 😀

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 8, 2008
12:50 pm
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Justin
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"JohnDF" wrote: Whenever you get off work. Remember, I have the brutal 3 hour work day tomorrow 😀

I have the brutal no hour work day. 😀

February 8, 2008
1:45 pm
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JohnDF
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Oh cool. I'll call you when I get home from work. I have your number 😀

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 8, 2008
3:06 pm
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troyman
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Dang dude, I hope you're kidding about the oil on the brakes thing. I meant to spray the piston to get any dirt/water out of there! lol But they should collapse essentially just far enough that with a new set of pads on them, should slide over the rotor with about 1/8" (maybe less) of clearance.

I'm guessing you did this already, but doesn't hurt to ask..... you did take the brake fluid cover off when you started to compress the piston into the caliper, right? You might just have a REALLY good seal on there and the fluid won't push back anymore. Seems more likely that the fluid cover would pop off and blow brake fluid all over the place though as opposed to keeping the piston from collapsing. Probably time for a new caliper though...

Out in the garage collecting parts....

February 8, 2008
3:45 pm
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JohnDF
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Yes, I took the cap off before I tried to compress them. The fluid is very dark. Rob suggests flushing out all the old fluid.

This is probably what has been causing my steering to pull.

I'll have Justin look at it and then I'll probably go buy new calipers, unless he finds something else wrong.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 8, 2008
4:37 pm
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Justin
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I have the same brakes and I think I paid around $20 per caliper. You can get the high end calipers for about $50 each. The thing that sucks is dealing with the jerks at Rebies in Loomis. I always end up driving to Auburn to deal with people who know what they are doing.

February 8, 2008
5:24 pm
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troyman
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Oh come on, everyone loves dealing with the counter guys at the Riebe's stores 🙄 I think it's a general holier than thou attitude when you get to the parts counters there. I generally try to go ANYWHERE else than Napa stores just because of the attitude you get from them.

Out in the garage collecting parts....

February 8, 2008
5:58 pm
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JohnDF
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Ya, the guys at the Loomis store are goofy. Well, most of them anyways. I did get one good one, but that was only once. Then the register lady is CRAZY rasta

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 8, 2008
6:16 pm
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Justin
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The register lady scares the heck out of me.

February 8, 2008
9:49 pm
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JohnDF
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Looks like I need to replace the calipers, bleed the brakes, and greese the bearings. Not in that order.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 8, 2008
10:42 pm
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Fred
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"JohnDF" wrote: Looks like I need to replace the calipers, bleed the brakes, and greese the bearings. Not in that order.

And get new pads?

February 8, 2008
10:45 pm
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Fred
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What about the loose bearings? Did the spindle nuts back off again? Is that normal? I know they make those fancy locking nuts, but it seems like you've had the normal ones loosen up more than should be acceptable.

February 8, 2008
11:08 pm
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JohnDF
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"JohnDF" wrote: It might be time for...

Back from page #1 wink

Attached files

[Image Can Not Be Found]

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 8, 2008
11:09 pm
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JohnDF
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Those are the stage 8 spindle nuts. I'm trying to track some down right now. It will be the 4th time I've replaced the spindle nuts. I think 37s are hard on them.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 8, 2008
11:52 pm
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BKGM Jeepers
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"JohnDF" wrote: Those are the stage 8 spindle nuts. I'm trying to track some down right now. It will be the 4th time I've replaced the spindle nuts. I think 37s are hard on them.

What happens to them? What's causing the problem?

February 9, 2008
12:03 am
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troyman
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Have you checked the actual spindle? Maybe the threads are boogered up.

Out in the garage collecting parts....

February 9, 2008
12:08 am
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JohnDF
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The nipple breaks and then the nut backs off.

That just sounded bad 😯

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 9, 2008
12:15 am
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Justin
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Maybe you need a hardened nipple. Like cryo treatment.

February 9, 2008
12:19 am
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troyman
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Wonder if it might even be something out of whack on the rotor/hub assembly. Maybe it's warped or something and putting tension on the nipples. hehehe tension on the nipples lol

Out in the garage collecting parts....

February 9, 2008
12:27 am
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Fred
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Are the bearings and races in good condition? Could worn bearings allow your nuts to loosen up and shear off your nipples?

February 9, 2008
12:29 am
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JohnDF
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Nah, it's just pressure from the 37s and lots of trail miles. They start to come loose. That's why there's a big market for the stage 8 locking nuts.

Remember, I ran Fordyce and Rubicon a half dozen times each (or more) last year. Not to mention the Hammers trip and a bunch of other trails. That's a lot of wheelin for one little spindle nut nipple 😀

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 9, 2008
12:40 am
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JohnDF
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I was partly right and you guys are partly right (it's political season)...

After talking to some "experts" it seems I need to be using a better grease in my bearings. A high temp disc brake grease. Seems that I'm cooking the bearings and that's causing some play that breaks the nipple off of my spindle nuts. This is caused by a lot of use with bigger tires.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

February 9, 2008
12:57 am
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Justin
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Don't buy any high temp bearing grease, I have plenty you can have. Did you get a price on the calipers?

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