10:08 am
Club Member
June 4, 2012
Mike G said
Ok well I have had a lot of free time at night when Shaina is sleeping not much to do in the hospital at night. I have been looking all over for axles for my Jeep after reading John's postings bit it is just so expensive for Jeeps (Just Empty Every Pocket) is true.I can get everything to build my Toyota axles with lifetime warranty on the chromo axels for like 3k and these Toyota axles are said to be a stout as the 9" axles so I think I'm going to build this thing over the top and just save the Jeep for easy family runs instead of spending 10k on Jeep axles.
I have a huge build list going of the things I'm going to start on as soon as we get home and we will eventually be home.
With the Stock Suzuki Axle tube if you go with the "heavy duty" axles the biggest tires suggested with the lower diff gears is 34". The main challenge is that the axle tube will twist if you go any bigger.
Going with the Toyota axle has two benefits, one is the stronger axles and axle tube, the second is the additional width, I think it's 6", for better stability. Also I think there is a larger selection of gear ratio available for the Toyota axles. It's a good conversion to do.
If I can't build it, then it's something that should be bought.
3:51 pm
July 14, 2016
9:00 pm
July 14, 2016
I'm not afraid of doing a little cutting, welding and fabrication to make something bad or broken work for my rigs...
Was at a body shop the other day and saw a smitybuilt front bumper after an accident that they were going to throw away so I asked if I could have it and they were more than willing to let me haul it out of there.
The left corner was bent backwards about 3 inches or so at the separation so I pressed it back and tack welded it in place till I could weld the rest. I cut some of the side bars off as the left side was all damaged and so I cut the rest off to match. I didn't do the finish work on the weld just painted it to keep it from rusting I'll finish the rest when we get home.
All and all I think it will go good on the front of this Suzuki...
7:54 pm
July 14, 2016
11:05 am
Club Member
June 4, 2012
12:21 pm
July 14, 2016
2:40 pm
Club Member
February 26, 2014
6:08 pm
July 14, 2016
9:24 pm
July 14, 2016
Did a full day wrenching today, thanks David (Suzuki master). Got the winch off, all pia lights, rear bumper, skid plates and wheels and tires.
Got the mighty Kong tcase cradle and my 6.5 to 1 tcase on my rig today. Need to do a little fab work for the bumpers to make them work for my rig but that's what I like to do.
I will be having a a work party at my house when we get home....
Putting on a new lift, axles, steering and a few other odds and ends lunch will be served I'll post up when that's happening.
9:20 am
Club Member
June 4, 2012
Mike G said
Did a full day wrenching today, thanks David (Suzuki master). Got the winch off, all pia lights, rear bumper, side plates and wheels and tires.Got the mighty Kong tcase cradle and my 6.5 to 1 tcase on my rig today. Need to do a little fab work for the bumpers to make them work for my rig but that's what I like to do.
I will be having a a work party at my house when we get home....
Putting on a new lift, axles, steering and a few other odds and ends lunch will be served I'll post up when that's happening.
Got the sympathy Sushi dinner for spiting my head open on your springs. OK just a little cut........ Little bit at a time, we'll get your Zuk on the trail.
If I can't build it, then it's something that should be bought.
9:19 pm
July 14, 2016
I just picked up some serious heavy duty square tubing I'm starting to draw up some designs for my swing out tire carrier, I'm going to be running 35" or 37" tires so I wanted to make sure it's good and stout. I have some ideas for the latch that aren't your typical latches so it's going to be a most likely one of a kind carrier.
That final thing being said if anybody has any old heim joints or Jonny joints lying around let me know....
8:17 pm
Club Member
June 4, 2012
4:05 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
4:21 pm
July 14, 2016
7:39 pm
Club Member
June 4, 2012
7:44 pm
July 14, 2016
8:54 pm
Club Member
August 17, 2014
3:21 pm
July 14, 2016
So with all this time off work I be been looking around for stuff for my project, and looky looky what I just got, did a little horse trading for these for some parts i don't need anymore.
Got 5 16.5 hummer double beadlocks with inserts they are 8x6.5 bolt pattern so now the questions is do I recenter them for the Toyota axles I have for the is rig or do I sell the Toyota axles and go narrowed Dana 60 from my F-350?
It's only going to be a 3k max weight rig running 37" tires max and a max horse power of 100 so built Toyota axles would be just fine and the Dana 60 might be a little overkill but what do you all think?
How do you add a poll question to a thread? Any help Kevin ?
6:12 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
7:36 pm
July 14, 2016
kris_olof said
Sell the beadlocks and get some more appropriate weight tires and wheels for the sami. Cheaper and easier to build up the yota axles for 37s than the cut down a 60 given the weight of the sami.
Negative! I want the beadlocks that's why I got them just wondering about the axles. I can get the tubes cut and axles cut and resplined for cheap probably the same price as getting the beadlocks recentered. I know a built Toyota axle will hold up to a 37" tires with these beadlocks but I just wondered what everyone else's opinion was about built Toyota's or narrowed tons would be.
Thank you that's 1 for the Toyota axles
7:40 am
July 14, 2016
12 bolt H1 wheels only weigh 38lbs yes more then a regular steelie but it's the 2 piece beadlock I want so the extra 20lbs or so isn't much of a compromise for me.
Heck going from 33" to 37" will be about the same weight difference and I don't see people trying to talk others out of going to a bigger tire size.
12:22 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
First off, when reading this please remember that I am not being a dick but rather trying to convince you out of going with the H1s and provide my reasons with data to back it up.
You forgot the weight of the insert, that is 50lbs total per wheel if they are cut rubber inserts or 68lbs total per wheel if they are the run flats (which wheelers don't run since they defeat the whole purpose of airing down). (and yes 37s are all going to be stupid heavy so i personally think you would be better off aiming for a 35 tire max but on a custom build you have to set tire size first and you are picking 37s so im running with that) But there is so much more compromise here than just the weight of the wheel: limited and pricey tire options, better wheel options, zero need for beadlocks on such a light rig, and this isn't 1998.
16.5 Tire options- There are very few manufacturers still selling new 16.5s. Pitbull and Swamper are all if know of and they both carry a big sticker price. The two other options would be military surplus take offs or the Treadwright re-molds of the military take offs. Both of these are bad options for a light wheeler. Military take offs are 10 ply meant for a 12,000lb+ rolling weight hummer and most on the market are going to be 10+ yrs old (hardly as many flooding the market with the troop draw downs in the middle east under obama, now ~7-8 yrs ago). In addition to the age which hardens tread, the tread compound is already on the hard side. Great cheap 37s for a super duty, not great for a light weight wheeler. The treadwrights will be better than the straight surplus tire but it is still 10ply and treadwright's aren't meant to be aired down super low which they plainly state it voids the warranty.
Better wheel options- at 29lbs each you could get some raceline steelie beadlocks which are pretty cheap or weld a beadlock kit onto some craigslist steelies. Both lighter in weight and cheaper tires in 15" and 17" rims.
Zero need for beadlocks- At 3,000lbs you could pull the valve cores on 10ply tires and they would barely bulge. Tim Hardy ran the Ultimate Adventure for over a decade on 35s with no beadlocks. (He did occasionally pop beads but he would also pull the valve stem and run the tires fully empty)
This isn't 1998- If these wheels were such a good deal you would still see people running them. 20yrs ago they were but times have changed and compared to other options they aren't great. They are leak prone, they are difficult to balance, re-centered ones are very hard to true, and tire options are limited. Thats a lot of compromises just to be able to say you have double beadlocks.
Compromises aside I think you should make some calls/get some quotes and compare the cost of making the H1s work vs Raceline beadlocks or weld on beadlocks. I bet H1s are more expensive in the end.