"Wh1t3Nukle" wrote:
Your truck is OBD2 from a google search. If you have Android phone, then I can recommend the best and cheapest code reader. One that you'll own. Total cost $40.
I'm listening...
I should be able to get it pulled for free with a quick stop but we'll see...
:cough: for free....
For the future anyway, get the Torque App
Then this blue tooth adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MP ... UTF8&psc=1
More then just a code reader too.
On chryslers, if you turn the key to accessories and off 3 times, it will read you the code on the odometer. Then just google it.
"finder_87" wrote: On chryslers, if you turn the key to accessories and off 3 times, it will read you the code on the odometer. Then just google it.
That's way too easy. You should have to spend a bunch of money to get that kind of information! 🙄
The code is a P1283.
P1283 NISSAN - Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 2
Sounds like I have an exhaust leak when it is cold. Maybe fixing it will help my gas mileage which has dropped about 2 mpg over the last few months?
There is a factory service buliton on that code. Maybe Nissan will pay fot it?
http://engine-codes.com/p1283_nissan.html
An o2 censor maybe. Running rich now? All nissans and get exhaust leaks. Greg knows what I'm talking about!
"lj4x4" wrote: There is a factory service buliton on that code. Maybe Nissan will pay fot it?
http://engine-codes.com/p1283_nissan.html
So far Nissan has paid for two things on this truck...Jack and S*#%. There are bulletins on everything I fixed...timing chain...radiator...fuel level sending unit. I'm just over the mileage for all of them. I'm used to a Toyota which would just be broken in by now...the Nissan is broken down. 😢
"Path 88" wrote: An o2 censor maybe. Running rich now? All nissans and get exhaust leaks. Greg knows what I'm talking about!
Cracked exhaust manifold and bad sensor. 🙁 If there's a silver lining I guess it's good news that it's on the driver's side (3hrs labor) vs the passenger's side (13hrs labor). Sounds like you have to pull the motor to get the passenger side out. 🙄
I wonder why they crack. Like Jeff said, every Nissan we've owned has had an exhaust leak. Check with Marko muffler. They seem to always have good pricing.
Put a header on just the one side!
Won't putting a new factory manifold on in place of the old factory manifold just re-start the same problem again?
Also, any one else out there now officially a faller B - restricted? I got my yellow paper card in the mail along with a certificate suitable for framing!
"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: Put a header on just the one side!
Won't putting a new factory manifold on in place of the old factory manifold just re-start the same problem again?
Also, any one else out there now officially a faller B - restricted? I got my yellow paper card in the mail along with a certificate suitable for framing!
I'm looking into header...we'll see.
I got my card the other day. Let's go find some trees! :hack:
So if you put one header on will it pull to the left?
"lj4x4" wrote: So if you put one header on will it pull to the left?
It will shoot flames out the left exhaust pipe but not the right.
The new manifold and O2 sensor are in but the code keep coming back. 😤 The Nissan service bulletin says I have to clear the "self learning" or it will keep coming back. I've checked with a few shops and they can all clear the light but none can erase the "self learning" since they don't have the Nissan computer. Apparently the aftermarket ones can't get in that deep. I found a procedure on the internet that I'm hoping will work otherwise I have to take it to the dealer and pay them to reset it. What a crock of bull. 🙄
The procedure on the internet is one of those turn the truck off, press the gas pedal ten times, turn it on, wait for the lights to flash, lather, rinse, and repeat type things. I feel like I'm entering cheat codes on a computer game. 😁
I had a similar issue when trying to pass SMOG on my jeep. Test guy indicated I needed at least 1 cold start, a couple of warm starts, and a couple of rapid accelerations. Basically, it needs to "see" most driving conditions. I did all this, drove about 50 miles and it cleared the code.
That sounds like the dealer trying to once again screw the working man. The older vehicles all you had to do was disconnect the negative an flash the li ghost hts a couple of times. Then drive fifty to sevendy miles to feset the sensors. The fact that one cant do th is on their own is bs. The dealer just wants to make more dough. You will probably just have to drive it, that is if you fixed it.
"BLEB" wrote: I had a similar issue when trying to pass SMOG on my jeep. Test guy indicated I needed at least 1 cold start, a couple of warm starts, and a couple of rapid accelerations. Basically, it needs to "see" most driving conditions. I did all this, drove about 50 miles and it cleared the code.
It sounds like in the case of Nissans they won't start learning again unless you force them to.
"lj4x4" wrote: That sounds like the dealer trying to once again screw the working man. The older vehicles all you had to do was disconnect the negative an flash the li ghost hts a couple of times. Then drive fifty to sevendy miles to feset the sensors. The fact that one cant do th is on their own is bs. The dealer just wants to make more dough. You will probably just have to drive it, that is if you fixed it.
I couldn't agree more. It blows my mind that you have to do a bunch of driving (burning fuel and creating smog) in order to pass a smog check. But...so far so good...I tried the reset sequence I found and drove about 40 miles. No check engine light yet. The last couple of times it came on about 25-30 miles after it was cleared (not reset). If it works I'll post details since it sounds like it works on most Nissans. Do we have a fingers crossed or knock on wood emoticon? 😀
Stupid auto correct
My experiment clearing the computer seems to have worked so I wanted to post the results so I could remember how to do it if I needed to and so they may be a bit easier to locate if someone is google searching for them. Sorry...it's a bit wordy in the hopes that it helps with the searching types. Took me forever to find it.
If you have a Nissan and get error code P1274, P1283, P1274, or P1284 you will need to clear the self-learning AFTER making the repairs. There is an official Nissan Service Bulletin on this but it requires a computer with CONSULT-II. Repairs might include a new oxygen sensor, exhaust manifold, headers or similar. My mechanic could clear the error code but couldn't reset the self learning so the code kept coming back. They pointed me toward a dealer. I found the following procedure on a Titan website and I know it works on a Frontier. Apparently it also works on a 350Z and a Murano so it may work on others. The link I found the info on is here: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-f ... rning.html.
The procedure is as follows:
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
On the Titan site they also show an easy procedure but that didn't work for me so I just used this one. It took me 4 tries. I think the problem is in step 4-5. If the CEL stops blinking you didn't make it. Around step 6 or so the blinking rate of the CEL changes to a couple of rapid blinks followed by a pause. Apparently that's how you know that you got it to work.
So far I've driven about 100 miles. I've noticed a dramatic increase in my gas mileage based on the little gizmo that tells you your average mileage. I always used to get 16.7 mpg. For the last few months I've gotten 14.7. As of today I'm closing in on 16 again and it's still rising! My commute is all mountain driving and I've noticed the truck hasn't shifted down quite as often. So far so good!
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