Sierra Trek 2022

Glad everybody is safe and had a good time.

Ok so I'm looking for a stub shaft for my Jeep. I'm more than likely going to replace both front axle shafts in the near future.  But for now, the stub shaft will have to do. My question is do you think a generic stub shaft will hold up? Like from an auto parts store.

Thank you Jeff for your hard work getting Sierra Trek and the Outer Limits volunteer run organized. I think we did a fantastic job as a club. Had a ton of fun! Looking forward to next year.

Gilbert & Betty said Ok so I'm looking for a stub shaft for my Jeep. I'm more than likely going to replace both front axle shafts in the near future.  But for now, the stub shaft will have to do. My question is do you think a generic stub shaft will hold up? Like from an auto parts store.

I wouldn't mess with anything that wasn't made by spicer.  Looks like there is a stock replacement and a spicer made upgraded shaft.

Stock: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p4066_dana_spicer_43205_outer_axle_fits_2003_to_2006_jeep_wrangler.html

Upgraded: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p16475_dana_spicer_10007747_chromoly_outer_axle_stub_shaft_replaces.html

Looks like Orielly has the non-upgraded in stock for $80

kris_olof said

Gilbert & Betty said

Ok so I'm looking for a stub shaft for my Jeep. I'm more than likely going to replace both front axle shafts in the near future.  But for now, the stub shaft will have to do. My question is do you think a generic stub shaft will hold up? Like from an auto parts store.

I wouldn't mess with anything that wasn't made by spicer.  Looks like there is a stock replacement and a spicer made upgraded shaft.

Stock: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p4066_dana_spicer_43205_outer_axle_fits_2003_to_2006_jeep_wrangler.html

Upgraded: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p16475_dana_spicer_10007747_chromoly_outer_axle_stub_shaft_replaces.html

Thanks, Kris I was looking at a Spicer to get through the rest of the season. So, I could save my pennies but I'm looking into some Yukon cromo shafts.  Those have a lifetime guarantee so they would be a nice upgrade for the little white jeep.

Gilbert & Betty said

kris_olof said

Gilbert & Betty said

Ok so I'm looking for a stub shaft for my Jeep. I'm more than likely going to replace both front axle shafts in the near future.  But for now, the stub shaft will have to do. My question is do you think a generic stub shaft will hold up? Like from an auto parts store.

I wouldn't mess with anything that wasn't made by spicer.  Looks like there is a stock replacement and a spicer made upgraded shaft.

Stock: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p4066_dana_spicer_43205_outer_axle_fits_2003_to_2006_jeep_wrangler.html

Upgraded: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p16475_dana_spicer_10007747_chromoly_outer_axle_stub_shaft_replaces.html

Thanks, Kris I was looking at a Spicer to get through the rest of the season. So, I could save my pennies but I'm looking into some Yukon cromo shafts.  Those have a lifetime guarantee so they would be a nice upgrade for the little white jeep.

Hey Gil,

Amazon has the same Spicer stub shaft model number 43205 but it says for a Dana 30. Reviewers say it works on the Dana 44

https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-43205-Axle-Shaft/dp/B018OGFVDM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=24L7RHLRO3HEJ&keywords=spicer+stub+axle+shaft+43205&qid=1660923626&sprefix=spicer+stub+axle+shaft+43205%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-1

It's just over $50

Looks like I also took some damage from Sierra trek. Didn’t let go till I was driving yesterday but I’m sure the trail running fatigued it.

Just a front sway bar link but now I can install the Antirock that is sitting on my shelf.

Thanks Kris, I found it on Amazon I think it'll work for the rest of the season.  John you'll love the anti-rock I like mine, let me know if you need help.

Gilbert & Betty said Thanks Kris, I found it on Amazon I think it'll work for the rest of the season.  John you'll love the anti-rock I like mine, let me know if you need help.

Hey Gil,

I have a ball joint press like the one they used on Jeff's jeep and also a U-Joint press if you need to pop the u-joints out of the old shaft.

John

Sloguy said   Hey Gil,

I have a ball joint press like the one they used on Jeff's jeep and also a U-Joint press if you need to pop the u-joints out of the old shaft.

John

Here is an update on my Jeep. I took it to WFO today. Danny, who I have dealt with for many years, is no longer there and apparently opened his own shop. They now have a suspension division and a gear and axle division which is just across the parking lot. I went in and they sent me over to the gear and axle division. I was told that a new G2 front Dana 44 would be about six months out (I have a Dana 30). I asked about the warranty on my 12 year old broken G2 front, inner passenger side axle shaft which I purchased from WFO and had them install years 12 ago. He recommend that I call G2 and inquire about getting a warranty replacement. According to their website it appears there is a 10 year warranty on it and it is 12 years old.

When I called G2 they asked me to email them pictures of the broken axle, a copy of my receipt and my shipping address. They got back to me quickly and asked how it broke and which side it was. I'm hopeful that they will send me a replacement. If they do replace it then the immediate plan, given how long it may take to get a new Dana 44, is to fix my Dana 30. If I do, I'm hoping that I can get some help from some club members since I'm not much of a mechanic and this is over my head. If they don't send me a free replacement then I need to purchase a new G2 replacement axle for a little under $200 or I could just put the stock shaft back in for now. In either case, I will eventually upgrade to a Dana 44.

I'm currently trying to determine what other parts I will need to fix it if I go that route. I know I need to fix or replace my front ARB seal housing because the copper air line broke off and was just sitting in the bottom of the diff. I need a new axle seal, diff cover bolts, U-joints and I'm sure more. Hopefully I will hear back from G2 tomorrow and then figure out which way to go. Suggestions are welcome!

Jeff_R said

Sloguy said  

Danny, who I have dealt with for many years, is no longer there and apparently opened his own shop.

Good for him, I always liked Danny.

Jeff_R said

I'm currently trying to determine what other parts I will need to fix it if I go that route. I know I need to fix or replace my front ARB seal housing because the copper air line broke off and was just sitting in the bottom of the diff. I need a new axle seal, diff cover bolts, U-joints and I'm sure more. Hopefully I will hear back from G2 tomorrow and then figure out which way to go. Suggestions are welcome!

When G2 gets back to you ask them what U Joints they used for the axle.

May be different from factory Spicer 5-760x (Kris can confirm, he knows everything 🙂)

I like the Lube Locker instead of RTV.

https://www.amazon.com/LUBE-LOCKER-LLR-D030-Lubelocker/dp/B008RAAOJW/ref=asc_df_B008RAAOJW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312430092407&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14202111534843888168&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032519&hvtargid=pla-494060001981&psc=1

Differential bolts should be 5/16-18  1/2" or possibly 3/4" for your Differential Skid.  I'd go with a flange bolt like below. Hopefully you get all the same head size this time.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Flange_bolts_Full_thread_Serrated_Zinc_plated_grade_8_steel_5_16-18.aspx

Axle seals

https://www.amazon.com/INNER-TUBE-SEAL-KIT-NON-DISCONNECT/dp/B075RTXPMN/ref=asc_df_B075RTXPMN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=331776188304&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8994570464566784660&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032519&hvtargid=pla-650761749503&psc=1

With the ARB you are out of my league.

Kris hopefully can confirm what I found so you know if they are correct.

You can bring your jeep to my house. The only curve ball is the ARB. Hopefully it’s not damaged. Maybe buy a new seal kit for that. And soldering supplies for the copper line.

Robert & Amber said You can bring your jeep to my house. The only curve ball is the ARB. Hopefully it’s not damaged. Maybe buy a new seal kit for that. And soldering supplies for the copper line.

If you buy the seal kit the copper line is pre-soldered and just attaches with a compression fitting at the axle housing end so no soldering is involved unless one tries to repair the original seal kit. I will just buy a new one.

If you need a ball joint and U-Joint press let me know.  Also check the passenger front tire for ball joint/tie rod.  It looked a little loose when Gerald's buddy was shaking the tire.

May be different from factory Spicer 5-760x (Kris can confirm, he knows everything 🙂)

Can confirm that it is a 5-760x since that is the largest joint that fits without new knuckles.

I just picked up spicer 5-760 1310 u-joint from summit racing for 17bucks next day if you are planning a repair party let me know

Sloguy said

Gilbert & Betty said

Thanks Kris, I found it on Amazon I think it'll work for the rest of the season.  John you'll love the anti-rock I like mine, let me know if you need help.

Hey Gil,

I have a ball joint press like the one they used on Jeff's jeep and also a U-Joint press if you need to pop the u-joints out of the old shaft.

John

Ok thanks John I’ll be in touch

Robert & Amber said You can bring your jeep to my house. The only curve ball is the ARB. Hopefully it’s not damaged. Maybe buy a new seal kit for that. And soldering supplies for the copper line.

Thanks Robert. The good news: G2 will replace by broken axle under warranty. The bad news: 4 to 6 weeks for delivery! I ordered a new G2 axle which should arrive on Friday. I hope I can just return the warrantied one in place of the new one after I receive it. If not, I will just keep the extra one for a spare.

I have ordered or will pick up the rest of the parts I need to fix my Dana 30. Once I get everything together it would be great if you could give me a hand putting it back together. Do you remember or know where the spacers go? I think they all came off the driver's side but I'm not sure. I have ordered new axle seals and will replace both of them as I know the passenger side was damaged. I'm hoping to get everything fixed well before the Slick Rock/Deer Valley run so I can test it a few times before I take it out on those trails.

I solved the mystery as to why the front axle housing breather was venting when the rear air locker was turned on. It turns out that the wires from the switches to the solenoids were reversed. I'm not sure if WFO did this or if I put them back wrong when I installed my ARB twin compressor. I remember marking them so that I would be sure put them back in the same position when I did the work so I'm not sure how they got reversed. I would like to think that it was my fault since WFO is such a good shop. In either case, it appears my rear locker is working fine now that I have the wires going to the correct solenoids. I will be picking up a new ARB seal housing kit from West Coast Differentials tomorrow. Apparently it is not uncommon for the copper air line to get caught up in the gears and shear off thereby disabling the locker. There is an aftermarket kit bracket kit to help prevent this. Looks like this is sold in the UK so I won't be purchasing one but looks like a good concept. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbrdI2rLsxs.

This has me question ARB lockers. Hopefully you can make a date where we can do both Yours and Gil's U-Joints at the same time. That way we can practice on your axles before working on Gil's 😀I can bring tools to make short work of the install (in theory haha)

Sloguy said This has me question ARB lockers. Hopefully you can make a date where we can do both Yours and Gil's U-Joints at the same time. That way we can practice on your axles before working on Gil's 😀I can bring tools to make short work of the install (in theory haha)

I can't get the seal housing off. Mine doesn't have clips and should just slide on and off. I called WFO and he said that it probably got too hot and welded the seal housing on. He said I probably need to buy a new locker. If that's the case, then I will need to upgrade to a Dana 44 and won't be wheeling for a while since Dana 44's are like six months out.

Well that puts a damper on the day.  ARB won't warranty? Don't know how it could have got so hot when you had full diff fluid in there. To get that hot I would think smoke would come out of your vent tube. You don't have a cap on your vent tube and we know it isn't clogged because we could hear and feel the air escape from it when you tried to engage the locker.

Sloguy said Well that puts a damper on the day.  ARB won't warranty? Don't know how it could have got so hot when you had full diff fluid in there. To get that hot I would think smoke would come out of your vent tube. You don't have a cap on your vent tube and we know it isn't clogged because we could hear and feel the air escape from it when you tried to engage the locker.

The broken end of the shaft was turning inside the locker and appears to have been creating a lot of friction. There is significant evidence of damage inside the locker where the broken shaft was making contract with it. If you look at the picture of the broken end of the axle shaft, it appears polished from friction so I suspect there was sufficient heat buildup to damage it. Time for a Dana 44. I will start a new thread because I need advice as to how to proceed with the upgrade.

Jeff_R said

The broken end of the shaft was turning inside the locker and appears to have been creating a lot of friction. There is significant evidence of damage inside the locker where the broken shaft was making contract with it. If you look at the picture of the broken end of the axle shaft, it appears polished from friction so I suspect there was sufficient heat buildup to damage it. Time for a Dana 44. I will start a new thread because I need advice as to how to proceed with the upgrade.

I'm curious to see how you do it.  37s???