89 K5: 3/4 ton axles

buckallred said

3) The seller of these axles is WFO Concepts in Auburn. I've never dealt with them, have any of you? 

THANKS!  

Buck, did you let them know that you're a member in our club? Jeff Sharkey has had a lot of work done there and John (DF) is about to have a lot of work done. They have done the work on my TJ so I think they will reduce the price if you let them know you're a club member. Call and ask for Danny at the front desk (tell him I suggested you talk to him) or speak with Trevor who is the owner. They will usually work with you on price.

Jeff_R said

Buck, did you let them know that you're a member in our club? Jeff Sharkey has had a lot of work done there and John (DF) is about to have a lot of work done. They have done the work on my TJ so I think they will reduce the price if you let them know you're a club member. Call and ask for Danny at the front desk (tell him I suggested you talk to him) or speak with Trevor who is the owner. They will usually work with you on price.  

As Jeff R says tell them that you are a member of our club. I'm likely going up there late morning to pick up some skid plates. I'll talk to Danny or Trevor as well.

Do they give member discounts?

JohnDF said Do they give member discounts?  

I have never asked them about that... Until recently, I thought I was the only member using WFO.  I will be up there today and see what I can find out.  I think it can't hurt to say you are part of the Posse.

Jeff Bakken and I have used WFO in the past.  They do nice work.

What front axle do you currently run? A Dana 44 in the front is pretty much going to be a dana 44 across the board.  You might really only be gaining the gearing.

What rear ale are you running also?  A 14 bolt is huge and very strong.  That is a 1 ton axle all day long.  I would definitely want at a minimum of 37s for that bad boy or you'll be dragging it on rocks.

After looking around for a second, it looks like you have a 10 bolt front axle and most likely a 12 bolt rear.  The 14 bolt will be a great addition for the rear and will really bring the BEEF!!  I wouldn't be scared to run 40's on that axle.  But again it's a huge axle and if you aren't going to run larger than a 35" tire, it really might be overkill.

Wiki says 89 K5's have the upgraded 30 spline 10 bolt front axle.  They are similar to a dana 44.  So not a huge upgrade but at least you will have matching gears and bolt pattern.

As far as install price, $1200 for install at $100 and hour rate seems about the going rate.  If you want to drop it off and pick it up, that might be the best option.  Have you discussed details about potential driveline or steering modification that might need to be done?  That could sneak up on you as far as an install price.  Swapping leaf spring axles is fairly easy and straight forward.  I'm sure people around the club wouldn't mind helping you.  Do you currently run 8 lug wheels?  That can be another associated cost as well.

Modifying vehicles is never straight forward...😵

Hi - thanks for all the input.

The axles in it are stock. For 1989 that means the "GM corporate 10 bolt" front and rear. My research indicates that running 35s on those axles are pushing it - they might break. 37s will definitely break one or both of them. I am still undecided between 35s or 37s . .  but would like to avoid axle problems in the future.

I also read that the 3/4 ton version of the "corporate 10 bolt" front axle has beefier outers (brake rotor, caliper mount) and, of course, 8-lug hubs. SO I could keep my front "corporate 10 bolt" and switch out the hubs, brake rotors, etc AND the gearing. .  which would (I think) end up costing more than just buying this pair of axles.

Also: best I can tell, the 14-bolt is pretty much the only (or easiest) rear axle upgrade for chevy trucks. If that's not correct, please let me know. . .

GREG: looks like we cross-posted. Have not discussed steering mods, but would bring it by to discuss the whole project with the boss (Trevor). Current rims are 6-bolt, so yeah, new 8-lug rims. But on the bright side, with 8-lug axles on the K5 I could switch wheels between the K5 and the suburban if I need to. . . and I am envisioning me and several kind-hearted club members trying to do this swap with my 4 kids running around a truck up on jack stands. .  that $1,200 sounds like a bargain in light of that. . .

JohnDF said Do they give member discounts?  

All,

I talked to Trevor and Danny at WFO today regarding a club discount.  They are more than willing to work with us.  It is hard to say what a flat discount would be as they don't have the same buy side profits on everything.  I know that they have matched prices on all the items I have bought.  Danny handles most all of the JK stuff and Brian does Chevy and Toyota etc.  I would simply identify yourself as a GHP member part of the same group as Jeff Root and Jeff Sharkey.  I am confident that they will give you a competitive price on whatever your needs are.  I know on WFO Brand Products they can give the greatest discounts. (diff covers, straps, parts etc)

Your research is correct and since your rig is an 89 you might (I say might because chevy was doing all sorts of parts swaps since they were nearing the end of the production of the k5) already have the 30 spline inners.  If these axles for sale are older then the front could be a 28 spline 10 bolt.  Nice thing is you could re-use the front brake calipers you currently have and not have to bleed the front brakes.  Rear is a bit more work but largely a bolt in swap compared to my TJ swaps.

At a minimum I see:

$800 for axles + $1,200ish for labor + wheels + ~$80 to shorten the drive shaft + ~$30 for the conversion rear u-joint + ~$80 for new rear u-bolts and spring plates + ~$20 for rear wheel cylinders + ~$120 for new drums(~$30 if you can get the existing drums turned) + ~$20 for new rear brake shoes

That's ~$2350 before wheels (more if you replace wheel bearings and seals) for only a functional improvement in the rear and not as deep of gears as you want.  Like anything else you have to compromise somewhere.  This deal gets you gearing and decent strength for 35s (assuming you get them to swap your 30 spline inners IF this front is 28 spline) at the compromise of rear ground clearance.  For 37s you will want a dana 60 front and to re-gear deeper than 4.88s even.

I think this deal would be worth it if you were doing the swap yourself but that extra $1200 in labor would be hard for me to swallow.  I think you should ask if the front is a 30 spline and do the swap with the club in your driveway. With a few hands the swap is a one-day bolt in affair save for the driveline.

buckallred said Short version: I'm going to put 35s or 37s on the K5, so I need bigger axles. I found these: https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/6012671223.html Just about perfect. 4.88 would be better, but 4.56 is good enough. 2 questions: 1) Based on my internet research, $800 seems maybe a bit on the high side for the axles, but not by much. I would be willing to pay a little more for a pair of axles with the gearing I want. Comments? 2) They quoted me around $2,000 to put them both on. That seems high to me. And to be brutally honest, I don't have the tools, space, or time to take on a project like putting these axles on myself. Any comments on that labor quote? 3) The seller of these axles is WFO Concepts in Auburn. I've never dealt with them, have any of you?  THANKS!  

Seriously!! Nobody is going to heckle u for saying u had 2 questions and u wound up asking 3!!???   U went way over ur limit!! 😎

I called and had a nice talk with Trevor. Essentially, his advice was for me to pass on these axles and wait to find a 14-bolt rear axle with 6-lug hubs. According to him, the 3/4 ton front axle is not much of an upgrade, if any, over the OEM 1/2 ton axle. So I simply need to get a 3/4 ton (14-bolt) rear axle and then get both axles re-geared. So I will not have to spend money on new wheels or (obviously) a new front axle. Trevor thinks he can locate a 6-lug 14-bolt axle for me. Ideally it would match the gearing I have (3.73:1) so I can drive the vehicle for now . . . until I change the gearing.

Additional parts of this project will be eliminating the slip yoke system (where the drive shaft hooks into the transfer case) and modifying the drive shaft.

He did mention that Jeff told him about me (thanks Jeff!) and seemed very enthused about working with all of us. He has owned something like 4-5 K5s, so he knows these vehicles well.

thanks for all the help  - yes even the heckling from Guy/Lynda. 🍻

buckallred said I called and had a nice talk with Trevor. Essentially, his advice was for me to pass on these axles and wait to find a 14-bolt rear axle with 6-lug hubs. According to him, the 3/4 ton front axle is not much of an upgrade, if any, over the OEM 1/2 ton axle. So I simply need to get a 3/4 ton (14-bolt) rear axle and then get both axles re-geared. So I will not have to spend money on new wheels or (obviously) a new front axle. Trevor thinks he can locate a 6-lug 14-bolt axle for me. Ideally it would match the gearing I have (3.73:1) so I can drive the vehicle for now . . . until I change the gearing.

Additional parts of this project will be eliminating the slip yoke system (where the drive shaft hooks into the transfer case) and modifying the drive shaft.

He did mention that Jeff told him about me (thanks Jeff!) and seemed very enthused about working with all of us. He has owned something like 4-5 K5s, so he knows these vehicles well.

thanks for all the help  - yes even the heckling from Guy/Lynda. 🍻

I was going to mention the 9.5" SF 14bolt option as it would fix your current weak link but I disagree with this path if you plan to go larger than 35s. Mainly because you have 37s in your future you will have to do this all over again with the front.  Yes the 9.5" SF 14 bolt will live with 37s but then you have the issue of paying to build a RCV'd Dana 44 or a dana 60 and the money you spent on the 10 bolt is out the window.  Whereas the 8-lug 14 bolt would be your forever axle and 37 ready from day one.

I guess if you are being budget conscious the 9.5 is more appealing as expenditures can more easily be spread out.  9.5 swap now, save some money, gear swap, save some money, add rear locker, save lots of money, build or buy 37 ready front axle, etc., etc.

kris_olof said

I guess if you are being budget conscious the 9.5 is more appealing as expenditures can more easily be spread out.  9.5 swap now, save some money, gear swap, save some money, add rear locker, save lots of money, build or buy 37 ready front axle, etc., etc.  

This is pretty much it. . . if I go with 35s, I would be done. If I go with 37s, I basically wait until the front axle breaks, then go Dana 60.

Keep in mind. ..  I also have the suburban that needs a winch bumper, tires, a turbo kit, stereo work, a headliner, etc etc etc. . .

buckallred said I called and had a nice talk with Trevor. Essentially, his advice was for me to pass on these axles and wait to find a 14-bolt rear axle with 6-lug hubs. According to him, the 3/4 ton front axle is not much of an upgrade, if any, over the OEM 1/2 ton axle. So I simply need to get a 3/4 ton (14-bolt) rear axle and then get both axles re-geared. So I will not have to spend money on new wheels or (obviously) a new front axle. Trevor thinks he can locate a 6-lug 14-bolt axle for me. Ideally it would match the gearing I have (3.73:1) so I can drive the vehicle for now . . . until I change the gearing. Additional parts of this project will be eliminating the slip yoke system (where the drive shaft hooks into the transfer case) and modifying the drive shaft.  He did mention that Jeff told him about me (thanks Jeff!) and seemed very enthused about working with all of us. He has owned something like 4-5 K5s, so he knows these vehicles well. thanks for all the help  - yes even the heckling from Guy/Lynda. 🍻  

Buck,

It sounds like you are on the right track.  What I like about WFO and Trevor is that he does not just try to sell you something.  He really cares that they do the right thing for their customers based on what the needs are and situation.  That is one of the main reasons I selected to work with WFO.