It's Beautiful!

"kevheb" wrote: [quote="BKGM Jeepers"]Kevin,
I think Rob brings up a good point. If you don't know whether the case is a direct bolt in, you should get the jack. If you have to do a lot of hammering, or cutting, pulling the case up and down won't be fun. I had assumed you knew it was a drop in, so we'd only be there an hour or so. I think Rob spent several hours getting his in correctly.

Let me know.

Yeah, good point. I'll try the jack option. I'll see if I can find one today. Thanks.

Ok,

Can you check for some detailed photos on a YJ installation? How detailed are your instructions? What do they say/show?

It fits!!!



What a difference when you have the right tools (jack). I still had to muscle it on though. Oy.



The first attempt it fit and was just barely touching the skid plate. I could see I had more room at the top so I made a clocking adjustment. Now it's up higher just barely touching the tub.



Also, one of the bolt holes is way out of alignment. Will it be a problem to run with 5 bolts instead of 6? I'd hate to do it but it's either that, or take it down, measure the clocking ring and send that back if it's the problem. I can't bore out the hole on the transmission because of it's location.



The picture below is with no body lift and stock skid plate currently being held up with a floor jack. I'm going to drop the skid plate back down and continue working on the linkage.





Attached files

I'd shoot to get all 6 bolts. No sense dropping that kind of cash and then doing the install half way. I'd also "finesse" the body out of the way. The last thing you want it to do is rub/vibrate and make noise. Either way, it's looking good!

It sounds like you are very close. I also suggest that for 2300 you make sure it is 100% right.



Not requiring a body lift or major cutting/hammering is very impressive! I wonder if the same is true for the TJ. I'd consider it if the fit is just as nice.



Let me know if you need help tomorrow. I can still come by, but let me know.

I think the 6th bolt crisis may be solved. I took it back down and clocked once more to get the bolt holes shifted. All five others will be move up one hole to get them to the same location they were in before. Now I have a bolt hole that I think I can squeeze in to with some effort. Taking a break now as that thing is heavy to muscle around. 😲

"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: Let me know if you need help tomorrow. I can still come by, but let me know.

All of the heavy lifting is done but I'll still be working on it tomorrow. If you want to see it and take any measurements to see if it would fit yours feel free to come by.

"kevheb" wrote: [quote="BKGM Jeepers"]Let me know if you need help tomorrow. I can still come by, but let me know.

All of the heavy lifting is done but I'll still be working on it tomorrow. If you want to see it and take any measurements to see if it would fit yours feel free to come by.

Good idea. If you didn't PM me your address yet, can you? Also, it would probably be around 11-1130.

"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: Good idea. If you didn't PM me your address yet, can you? Also, it would probably be around 11-1130.

Sounds good. Should be in your inbox. See you then



I'll be dropping the t-case one more time. The clocking ring is in a good position now that it will allow me to slightly bore out the bolt hole on the tranny for that sixth bolt.

With a heavy box like the Stak or Atlas, you will need all 6 bolts, or it with rip away from your transmission. Also, you will need at least an inch or more clearance between the case and the skid and tub. If not you will get the worst knocking and vibration of your life. Make sure your transmission mount on your skid is in good shape. I go through a transmission mount a year with the weight of my Atlas. Poly would probably last longer, but I hate the vibration I get from the motor vibration. You won't really know how it fits and what might rub until you actually get it installed and test drive it. John and I used a 6 foot breaker bar between my frame and the tub. We slid it above the corner of my Atlas then I jumped up and down on it to bend my tub upward to make room for where the case was hitting the tub. It just takes a little work, but the end result of a rock solid T-case is well worth the trouble 🍺

Finally got the perfect clocking! There's space at top and bottom.



Now I just need to finish boring out the hole for the sixth bolt.



Hopefully the next time up is the last. I guess all the up and down is worth it to get it right. 😀

It's in!



ALL bolts bolted. Linkage done. T-case skid plate back on.



Items remaining: Attach driveshafts, splice speedo connector, poor man's posi-lock, button up shifter area with some sheet metal and install shifter boot, re-install engine skid plate.









Attached files

Looks awesome! You're going to love the gears, but the rest of us are going to miss watching you launch over things. 😀

"Bender" wrote: the rest of us are going to miss watching you launch over things. 😀

😂 So true...it was a joy to watch you flog your Jeep. Looks like it's crwling from here on out 🙁

Finally got to work on it some more this evening.



Cut the speedo connector and installed a weatherpack connector. The t-case came with a TJ connector that wouldn't fit the YJ connector.



Did the poor man's posilock similar to option 3 here: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/ ... index.html



Finished up the shifter area as seen below.



I should have it finished up this weekend and have it back on the road.





Attached files

Looking good 😎

I'm so jealous...I like my TeraLow a lot, but wish I had a Stak or Atlas for the durability.

Nice job Kevin.

Nice work, did you just screw the new sheet metal to the floor or use rivets or something?

"Bender" wrote: Nice work, did you just screw the new sheet metal to the floor or use rivets or something?

I just used self-tapping screws. That's what the factory used and it was still in good shape after 17 years so I figured it would be okay. 🙂

On the road again!



1:1 is smooth and I can engage the front from N to H on the fly. Disengaging from H to N takes a little more finesse.



I have to stop to engage either 2.44:1 or 4.29:1 as expected. Getting the front engaged to L works best while rolling slowly.



Disengaging the front and rear from L while in 2.44:1 or 4.29:1 was trickier to figure out. They will disengage with some finesse but the trick to make it easy was to disengage the rear while accelerating and then the front will easily disengage once the rear is disengaged.



I still have to play with it some more but I'm happy so far. Now I just need to get it out on the trail. 😁