"Justin" wrote: [quote="Bender"]
I'm a big fan of Driveline Service of Sacramento (in West Sac.). Quality work, reasonable prices, knowledgeable, and creative enough to deal with some of the "different" type stuff that comes up on a lifted rig.
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pulling the driveshaft today. Gonna take it in. My angle are fine, thats why im guessing it has to be out of balance or something else. Im tempted to take the whole Jeep in and have them give it a once over to see if im missing something.
So I took it into Bayshore Trucking today. First off let me say.. THEY ARE AWESOME! Fellow Jeep owners who know their stuff. Aron took the time out of his day to go on a drive with my and diagnos the problem. So now to the problem:
-the Hack n tap is crap and I need to put in an Advanced Adapters SYE
-Front shaft needs to be re-tubed
So thats what I got... Now i need to find the time between school and work to drop my t-case, instal SYE, and then re-instal t-case. 😤
You don't need to drop the case to install the AA SYE. Just pull the back half. Took me a couple hours by myself to do it.
You know where to take it. The hack and tap works best with the harmonic thing still on. The one I used had to be indexed. The bolts would go in both ways but had to use the pattern that went in easiest. Also there is a washer that goes between the hack and driveflange.
"jsmorrow" wrote: You know where to take it. The hack and tap works best with the harmonic thing still on. The one I used had to be indexed. The bolts would go in both ways but had to use the pattern that went in easiest. Also there is a washer that goes between the hack and driveflange.
The guy who installed my hack-n-tap did a terrible job installing it, so the output shaft isnt centered. Therefore its creating the vibes.. and my CV joints dont like it much either.
I've still got my original case. 22k with amsoil in it since 1 week from new. You are welcome to borrow it until you figure your stuff out. What is the best price you've found on AA's sye? I 'll ck mine today.
"jsmorrow" wrote: I've still got my original case. 22k with amsoil in it since 1 week from new. You are welcome to borrow it until you figure your stuff out. What is the best price you've found on AA's sye? I 'll ck mine today.
the whole t-case? Best deal so far is advanced adapters with 1350 cv yoke. for 270.... i dont think i can re-use the old cv yoke can i?
The whole case. My hack yoke is for 1310. Will get back to you on price w/output yoke. DS yoke will need to be changed also. Which are you going to run 1310 or 1350 or combo?
JB Conversions is another good company for an SYE. I use their super short version in my TJ.
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/s ... td_sye.php
"jsmorrow" wrote: The whole case. My hack yoke is for 1310. Will get back to you on price w/output yoke. DS yoke will need to be changed also. Which are you going to run 1310 or 1350 or combo?
My 8.8 yoke is a 1350.. my driveshaft is currently 1310... i mine as well do the t-case 1350 so if and when I get a new driveshaft, I can run unbreakable 1350's
Follow Fred. I'm going to when I do the swap on Green. May even order parts today. Your price was good for a complete AA kit. I would buy this kit before AA's. Thanks fred, you solved a length issue I found in the mock-up on sue's jeep as she did not want an atlas case.
I have a 1310/1350 combo in the rear. The diff side is 1350 and the CV is 1310. I was told that a 1310 CV has more room before it binds. And the combo was a lot less $$$ than a full 1350 CV. So far, so good. 🙂
"kevheb" wrote: I have a 1310/1350 combo in the rear. The diff side is 1350 and the CV is 1310. I was told that a 1310 CV has more room before it binds. And the combo was a lot less $$$ than a full 1350 CV. So far, so good. 🙂
hmm i may just run the 1310 at the t-case then. My only dilemna is i mine as well do it right the first time. If I start running bigger tires down the road. im gonna want the 1350 joints.
and im assuming non-cv is the best option.
"connor0770" wrote: [quote="kevheb"]I have a 1310/1350 combo in the rear. The diff side is 1350 and the CV is 1310. I was told that a 1310 CV has more room before it binds. And the combo was a lot less $$$ than a full 1350 CV. So far, so good. 🙂
hmm i may just run the 1310 at the t-case then. My only dilemna is i mine as well do it right the first time. If I start running bigger tires down the road. im gonna want the 1350 joints.
and im assuming non-cv is the best option.
My TJ runs the larger joints, 37" tires and more than 6" of lift. I don' have any DL binding problems.
"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: [quote="connor0770"][quote="kevheb"]I have a 1310/1350 combo in the rear. The diff side is 1350 and the CV is 1310. I was told that a 1310 CV has more room before it binds. And the combo was a lot less $$$ than a full 1350 CV. So far, so good. 🙂
hmm i may just run the 1310 at the t-case then. My only dilemna is i mine as well do it right the first time. If I start running bigger tires down the road. im gonna want the 1350 joints.
and im assuming non-cv is the best option.
My TJ runs the larger joints, 37" tires and more than 6" of lift. I don' have any DL binding problems.
Im only on a 4 inch lift right now. Plus i would rather have a u-joint break, instead of a R&P. im gonna go with the AA SYE 1310 joint. It will be here early next week. How much harder is the instal going to be since theres a hack-n-tap in there?
Shouldn't be any harder since you replace the output shaft anyway.
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