All That black stuff is grease - I know ive needed a new front drive shaft since forever but I guess now it has to happen. My question is with all these grease (and to me it seems to be a large amount - did I screw anything on the transfer case as well or is it an easy throw a new drive shaft in and all should be good?
Any recommendations on a front drives haft
Sorry for the crappy phone pics
Is it grease or really dirty oil? Are the output bearings in a Jeep transfer case greased or lubricated by the oil in the t-case?
im %95 sure its grease but this is my first 4 drive vehicle so my first transfer case
It's hard to see what is going on in the photos. Can you explain it? Is there a lot of grease on the tcase? Is the driveshaft bone dry? Does it look like its seeping from the tcase? Or is it splatter from the driveshaft?
I bought a driveshaft through Northridge4x4.com. Free shipping and no tax and it came from San Luis obispo area. Most online dealers will be able to do jeep driveshafts. Local driveshaft places will be over prices in my experience.
It looks like the angle at the driveshaft to t case is way too much and it is grease that looks to have been flung from the tcase/drive shaft meeting point by the drive shaft
Do you have a slip yoke at the transfer case? Or is it a fixed yoke?
I think your tcase is a 231?
These tcases carry oil. It appears to me, but not complete sure, but possibly you have some weeping of tcase fluid up there. It comes out and onto the driveshaft and gets flung. To me that appears to be small amount. I'd wipe it down clean as best as you can and monitor it.
Other option, but I'm not sure, is if there is a ujoint there b/t the yokes? driveshaft to tcase
if so the ujoint might have a zerk fitting such that you can add grease to the ujoint or that ujoint is toast and needs replacing.
This means driveshaft is fine.
Again, just based on the pictures you got.
it is all factory 08 auto rubicon unlimited
it dose look like there is a rubber boot where the DS connects to the TCase that could be loosing fluid and unfortunately with my noob status I am unaware of what a yoke is and or what type it has - its whatever is stock on the rubicon
Ok, I think I see what you got...a nv241. See this thread. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/what- ... ne-854790/
This picture look like your configuration?
Added Rzeppa Joint Configuration version
im pretty sure 241 sounds familiar - and my drive shaft looks nothing like that it hs no u joints at the transfer case. It just drops down to a real small shaft and goes into the transfer case - there is one boot in the middle of the driveshaft that covers some part that looks like a spline drive
ok i just looked at the link and my transfer case is fixed flange with expandable spline driven drive shaft. about half way down the page from the link it shows a Rzeppa Joint - thats what i have and mine also looks maxed out like that. Mine must be leaking form that boot where the shaft enters the flange - Hopefully i can just replace the drive shaft, that boot, and figure out if that section just needs to be repacked with grease or just refill the T Case with oil if thats how its lubed.
Thanks for the help Carl
John this happened to my JK as well. The stock rubber boots fail at extreme angles. Then the grease is ejected. It is cheaper to upgrade your driveline than replace the OEM part.
Drive Line Service of Sacramento does good work. 916 371-3332
http://www.drive-lines.com
They build it. You install it. Saves $$ this way. It is an easy part to change out. Easy to access.
FWIW I would upgrade to a SYE on the T-case side. (if its a Rubicon its the Roc-Track NP 241) and get a new drive shaft with a slip joint at the axle end of the shaft. This is the set up I have and it seems to work really well.
"LJ3" wrote: FWIW I would upgrade to a SYE on the T-case side. (if its a Rubicon its the Roc-Track NP 241) and get a new drive shaft with a slip joint at the axle end of the shaft. This is the set up I have and it seems to work really well.
JKU's don't require a SLE. They have the wheelbase to prevent the vibrations. Plus the new rubi cases come with driveline mounting plates on each end of the T-case so it's flat surface to flat surface (Rubicon models only).
I'm not sure what the problem is in the pictures here. my looks the same but I have aftermarket CV drivelines and it is grease on my jeep you see. It happens each time I grease the DL u-joints.
If you are running a stock front driveline, I'd consider upgrading because of your current lift.
"Josh" wrote:
Drive Line Service of Sacramento does good work. 916 371-3332
http://www.drive-lines.com
They build it. You install it. Saves $$ this way. It is an easy part to change out. Easy to access.
I'd recommend Drive Line Service of Sac as well. They took really good care of me but I was having them make something custom so you may have better luck with a more off the shelf part.
This is the unit i have been looking at for quite some time - the JE REEL unit - Any issues with this or do you think it would be better to have drive line sac build me one
http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/j-e-r ... atic-trans
I have also considered the Coast unit i cant really tell the difference and the descriptions are less then helpful to me i just know someone who got a JE unit for his and it worked great
http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/coast ... rive-shaft
Called up Sac Drive line and it was no cheaper and the guy i was talking too didnt have much information on what components it was made from or what length range it had
I had a coast drive line in my lj that I got from northridge. It is a very nice unit. I had it for 4 years before selling the jeep. It required very little maintenance and was pretty beefy.
"scoped" wrote: Called up Sac Drive line and it was no cheaper and the guy i was talking too didnt have much information on what components it was made from or what length range it had
Sac driveline fabs their own stuff. Length is as long as you want. You provide the measurements and the yokes you need on each end (or tell them the year/model of your jeep) and they do the rest. I've never had a DLS driveline fail, and I've had them do some rebuild work too. My current DL's are some bolt in aftermarket brand and they work fine...
I had them rebuild and balance my DLs after the SYE and taller lift were installed. Prices were competitive but their reputation and delivery (same day!) sold me.
=====
I built my own. Mark
Attached files 
I think he's asking about buying one and the two brands he mentioned. Scope mentions he's a noob so I don't think making his own would be the best option for him right now.
"skorch" wrote: I built my own. Mark
Are you offering to fab one for John? 😀 How were you able to balance the DL at home? What did you use? Was the DL you built the rear? Both?
I don't recommend you make your own. Unless you have the ability to balance it and welding skills. I've made many drive lines and I would not run them on a daily driver unless they are balanced.
"finder_87" wrote: I don't recommend you make your own. Unless you have the ability to balance it and welding skills. I've made many drive lines and I would not run them on a daily driver unless they are balanced.
If it's a front and you have hubs you can disengage it so it doesn't spin. Makes it a pain for higher speed 4 wheeling but it is doable in a daily driver.
I drove the Hammers on a homemade (in camp) driveline.
"Bender" wrote:
I drove the Hammers on a homemade (in camp) driveline.
I remember that, it was awesome.
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