First off, when reading this please remember that I am not being a dick but rather trying to convince you out of going with the H1s and provide my reasons with data to back it up.
You forgot the weight of the insert, that is 50lbs total per wheel if they are cut rubber inserts or 68lbs total per wheel if they are the run flats (which wheelers don't run since they defeat the whole purpose of airing down). (and yes 37s are all going to be stupid heavy so i personally think you would be better off aiming for a 35 tire max but on a custom build you have to set tire size first and you are picking 37s so im running with that) But there is so much more compromise here than just the weight of the wheel: limited and pricey tire options, better wheel options, zero need for beadlocks on such a light rig, and this isn't 1998.
16.5 Tire options- There are very few manufacturers still selling new 16.5s. Pitbull and Swamper are all if know of and they both carry a big sticker price. The two other options would be military surplus take offs or the Treadwright re-molds of the military take offs. Both of these are bad options for a light wheeler. Military take offs are 10 ply meant for a 12,000lb+ rolling weight hummer and most on the market are going to be 10+ yrs old (hardly as many flooding the market with the troop draw downs in the middle east under obama, now ~7-8 yrs ago). In addition to the age which hardens tread, the tread compound is already on the hard side. Great cheap 37s for a super duty, not great for a light weight wheeler. The treadwrights will be better than the straight surplus tire but it is still 10ply and treadwright's aren't meant to be aired down super low which they plainly state it voids the warranty.
Better wheel options- at 29lbs each you could get some raceline steelie beadlocks which are pretty cheap or weld a beadlock kit onto some craigslist steelies. Both lighter in weight and cheaper tires in 15" and 17" rims.
Zero need for beadlocks- At 3,000lbs you could pull the valve cores on 10ply tires and they would barely bulge. Tim Hardy ran the Ultimate Adventure for over a decade on 35s with no beadlocks. (He did occasionally pop beads but he would also pull the valve stem and run the tires fully empty)
This isn't 1998- If these wheels were such a good deal you would still see people running them. 20yrs ago they were but times have changed and compared to other options they aren't great. They are leak prone, they are difficult to balance, re-centered ones are very hard to true, and tire options are limited. Thats a lot of compromises just to be able to say you have double beadlocks.
Compromises aside I think you should make some calls/get some quotes and compare the cost of making the H1s work vs Raceline beadlocks or weld on beadlocks. I bet H1s are more expensive in the end.
Storage packs AND First aid packs
