Cherokee XJ build: TomD

Looks great!

Those wheels have some serious :bling: :bling:



Don't follow John or they'll get all scratched up. 😁

"TomD" wrote: First pic ... using the method outlined by GoJeep, I centered the front axle by moving the track bar 15/16th" toward the driver's side. I'm not concerned for the back side as there is reinforcement but will need to weld a heavy washer to the front before any hard off-rading is done.

Your Jeep looks great Tom!

I would seriously consider buying an adjustable front track-bar though. That method of moving it seems kinda spooky to me. 😲

"Justin" wrote: [quote="TomD"]First pic ... using the method outlined by GoJeep, I centered the front axle by moving the track bar 15/16th" toward the driver's side. I'm not concerned for the back side as there is reinforcement but will need to weld a heavy washer to the front before any hard off-rading is done.

Your Jeep looks great Tom!

I would seriously consider buying an adjustable front track-bar though. That method of moving it seems kinda spooky to me. 😲

It is getting out toward the edge on the front of the track bar mount, no doubt. My thought is to weld a plate to the front of the "channel" to give more material. As the existing mount is only 1/8" steel channel, then adding a 1/8" steel plate to the front that extends 1/4" below and 1/4" further toward the driver's side should be more than sufficient, strength-wise. The back part of that channel has NOT been cut off like the front so there is plenty of strength back there. As far as adjustment goes, the axle is centered very well under the body so was able to save those $$$ and spend them elsewhere ... like gaso for March 3rd!



One other item I noted when doing the relocation: while allowing the front to droop during the install of the front suspension, it was noted by Steve and I that it appeared to be limited by some part or another and we assumed TREs. While relocating, I saw the the track bar actually had contacted the top of the channel as it was mis-shappen from the round track bar contacting the flat upper edge. By moving the bar out further, I actually added significantly more droop. Not sure how much as of yet.



As I have the v8ZJ tie rod yet to install, I will be replacing all TREs with units that have more movement thus adding more droop. Hey, part of the fun is finding the combinations instead of just buying. I'm also thinking (DANGER, Will Robinson!) that at the same time I'll do an OTK to eliminate some of the angles. Still working on that one, though.

Might want to check the TRE at the pitman arm at full droop and with driver stuffed and pass at full droop. I've had problems in that area. Napa carries TRE's that have a double race inside that allows about 12 deg. more movement but are in truck size taper with 7/8 threads if i remember correctly. High steer still on my wish list.

The next thing on the list of getting done was to relocate and secure the front and rear brake lines. After a fair amount of research, I discovered you do not need to get longer brake lines but just relocate the ones that are already in place. After finishing, full flex is still there.

Attached files

jsmorrow: Thanks for the tip on the TREs! I will take advantage of that tip.

What I got done this weekend:



1 - Measurements around the lift and new tires (after 100 miles).





2 - Installed the RC sway bar disconnect. Neat setup! Hadn't used a sway bar since last spring.



3 - Measured the DS and pinion angles. With a 6* shim already in place, I measured the pinion at 12* and DS at 18*. A visual inspection shows the pinion pointed lower than the DS. This gave pause for concern. With those numbers, it would appear I'd need to increase the shim to ~10* to get close to the 1-2* area that the double cardon DS needs to operate in. Those numbers, though, do not seem reasonable as I had the same issue with my YJ years ago.



After speaking to Steve, my personal expert/mentor/guru the idea was floated that went something like this: My lift in the rear is a RE 4.5" spring pack with the standard/OEM shackles as was my YJ. Most folks get longer shackles when doing a leaf spring lift which will increase the pinion angle all by itself. Am I shooting myself in the foot by NOT using shackles?



As it turns out, I would not mind another 1" lift in the rear to accommodate the effect of gear and other loads in the back to I'm open to a 1" shackle lift if that would take care of the pinion/DS issue as well.



Looking for input from those who've seen this before … and THANKS in advance.

Attached files

Tom Woods and sacramento driveline have worksheets on the websites that may be helpful. I like the 1 degree under for the pinion. Be sure to check the difference between the driveshaft and the output. hopeful it is less than 17. Keep in mind that most DC's only offer about 22 across the closed end and around 30 on the open. I usually check at full droop by removing the DS at the rear yoke and if I have at least another inch of drop of drop across the closed end, it is pretty close. Not sure but you might want add a little more with your leaf springs unless you have a couple of real big fellers to push down on the rear axle while you check.

"jsmorrow" wrote: Tom Woods and sacramento driveline have worksheets on the websites that may be helpful. I like the 1 degree under for the pinion. Be sure to check the difference between the driveshaft and the output. hopeful it is less than 17. Keep in mind that most DC's only offer about 22 across the closed end and around 30 on the open. I usually check at full droop by removing the DS at the rear yoke and if I have at least another inch of drop of drop across the closed end, it is pretty close. Not sure but you might want add a little more with your leaf springs unless you have a couple of real big fellers to push down on the rear axle while you check.

I'll be taking the rear DS out later in the week to put that plug back in and when I do, all those angles will be rechecked as will the droop. Also, will look up those websites to see what can be learned.



Thanks!!

What I did today: 2/14



Pulling in and out of my driveway or making a tight turn as speed, the tires would rub on the back side of the front venders. GoJeep has a great write-up on getting extra space for clearance just for that situation.







Attached files

How much space? Here are the pics.







No more rubbing. Of course I need to get some silicone or the like to finish sealing up the seams, but it is nice not having "those" noises any longer.

Attached files

Wait until that tire is stuffed while flexing, you wont be able to turn it at all. I have almost 9 inches of clearance where you have 4 1/2 and my tire still binds a little when stuffed 😲

"RobD" wrote: Wait until that tire is stuffed while flexing, you wont be able to turn it at all. I have almost 9 inches of clearance where you have 4 1/2 and my tire still binds a little when stuffed 😲

RobD: Yeah, I get that. My initial need was to get the front end clearing lock-to-lock. In the majority of situations, it should be enough for my conservative (timid?) style of wheeling at this point.



That said, tonight the plan is to get the Cherokee's body high enough on jackstands to allow the suspension to fully droop. Then with the help of my able assistant (Ronie) I'll jack up the corners (at the axle) while having her turn lock-to-lock to see what is in the way and by how much. I can also see how high I need to set the bump stops. At the same time, I can verify the E-brake cable and brake lines are not being stretched beyond their limit ... or anywhere CLOSE to the limits.

Hi Tom,

I know you are on a tighter schedule but when I make major changes, I run out to Prarie City and use their motor cycle loading ramp to test out my binding/flexing.



If you tell them that you're only going to the staging area to test your vehicle before coming back to use the park, they usually let you in for free.

"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: Hi Tom,
I know you are on a tighter schedule but when I make major changes, I run out to Prairie City and use their motor cycle loading ramp to test out my binding/flexing.

If you tell them that you're only going to the staging area to test your vehicle before coming back to use the park, they usually let you in for free.

That sounds like a GREAT plan and I will take advantage before any serious trimming takes place.



Yeah, my timeframe even got a little tighter as I found I'll be doing some traveling the week between the Road Rescue (March 5th) and a planned trip to Hollister (March 12th). So my goals for the short term are to get the bump stops set initially, trimming to make the Cherokee worthy of what will be seen on the 5th (I think I'm already there) and taking it easy on the 12th (mild off-road). For Ronie and I, both of the trips (5th and 12th) is more about getting to know people and finding places to play.



Besides, with today's weather I may get out to Prairie City, drive into "casual water" and never be seen again!

Take some holister pics. I assume you're going to holister hills, or just to actual holister. If only actual holister, no pics are necessary. Been there, done that... 😂

"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: Take some holister pics. I assume you're going to holister hills, or just to actual holister. If only actual holister, no pics are necessary. Been there, done that... 😂

Hollister Hills is correct. Pics are in the plan, for sure.

Over the last couple of weeks there has been a whole lot of prepping, waiting and not a lot to show but, at last, there is something of some significance.



1 - Prepped the track bar mount, control arm drop bracket reinforcement and rear shock mount (cut for relocation) for welding.

2 - Did some fender liner and sheet metal trimming. Removed the front valance.

3 - Found a hole (no idea when or how it got there) in the vacuum bottle located behind the passenger side of the front fender … no wonder the speed control barely worked and the heater operated funky.



Welded the track bar reinforcement in place. Cleaned up and painted.

Not so much luck welding the CADB reinforcement. Turns out the welder is too small. Cleaned up area and repainted. Needs to have something before going off-road … I have another idea I'll share later after it is designed and installed. Didn't try to weld the shock mount for the same reason.

Fender trimming turned out well. Should take care of things until I decide if off-roading the Cherokee is going to get more serious.

Replaced the vacuum bottle.



Also remeasured the rear DL angle … with the 6* shim in place, there is still a 6* difference between the pinion and output shaft. Going to drive a bit without the rear DS to see if there is any change in the vibrations at speed or whether I'm feeling the tires. Will update after the evaluation.



Here are some pics of the completed fender/liner trimming --

Attached files

It's been a while since I did any kind of update, so there's not much in the way of pics ... BUT ... here's what's gotten done:



1 - Welded the reinforcement onto the lower track bar mount.

2 - Welded the rear, lower shock mounts (raised 2" - better ground clearance).

3 - Installed the RC X-flex LCAs (those are BIG!)

4 - Finished the fender and liner trimming.

5 - Replaced the vacuum assist bottle.

6 - Reinstalled the rear DS. No unacceptable vibrations at freeway speeds so sounds like all is good.



Next up: steering and armor.

Sounds like your ready to test it out at the Hammer 🍺 Nice work!!! and it looks great!!!!

"TomD" wrote: It's been a while since I did any kind of update, so there's not much in the way of pics ... BUT ... here's what's gotten done:



1 - Welded the reinforcement onto the lower track bar mount.

2 - Welded the rear, lower shock mounts (raised 2" - better ground clearance).

3 - Installed the RC X-flex LCAs (those are BIG!)

4 - Finished the fender and liner trimming.

5 - Replaced the vacuum assist bottle.

6 - Reinstalled the rear DS. No unacceptable vibrations at freeway speeds so sounds like all is good.



Next up: steering and armor.

Any place called "the hammer" I'm staying away from! I've seen those pics and NONE of them include XJs ... but thanks for playing! 😁



T

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Thought I'd throw in a couple of pics on the finished rear shock mount relocation. This actually raised the shock and increased ground clearance by almost 2-1/2" … and at the same time, corrected for the 5" lift and 6* shim needed to bring the pinion angle back into spec for the double carden driveshaft.



First upper mount was bolted in place then, with vehicle weight on the tires and suspension, swung the shock into place with the lower mount already bolted to the shock. In this way I felt the shock would be in a "neutral" position both upper and lower so, when placed against the axle, it would be in position with no binding top or bottom. When done, the lower mount slid onto the lower mounting pin like it was greased.

Attached files

"TomD" wrote: Any place called "the hammer" I'm staying away from! I've seen those pics and NONE of them include XJs ... but thanks for playing! 😁

T
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Why not? I'd be MORE than happy to run your XJ down at the hammers for you! 😁

You don't want a lot of body at the Hammers...ask Keane 😂