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ARB Compressor Mount for TJ
September 28, 2018
6:38 am
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Jeff_R
Meadow Vista
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Tyler – K6TLR said

Setup the regulator and was working on calibrating it to 95psi. Once I got it there, the twin arb cycled on and off every 2 seconds because there wasn’t enough of an air reserve between the regulator and compressor to stop compressor air spikes from happening when the compressor was on.

So… 9pm…

Either move the regulator over to right before the manifold, and hope there is enough air reserve in 3.5ft of 3/8 ID hose… or dismount the compressor, take it apart and replace the pressure cutoff switch with the switch from my old compressor. Option 1 was 50/50 on working imo… Option 2 was 100% on working if my old switch worked (which it was when I dismounted the old compressor). Option 2 it is…

Took everything apart, installed the old switch, put everything back together, and at 10:30pm, everything finally worked as intended. 5 gallon air tank, twin arb, air coupler in the rear to air up, 2 up front, system shuts off at 90psi, lockers all work.

If you have a tank then one possible solution would be to feed your 95 psi regulator for your lockers with a line coming from the tank. That way you could run the higher pressure pressure switch on your compressor without it cycling on and off since the source for your lockers would be the reserve air pressure in your tank. And when the compressor cycles on to fill the tank it will shut off at 150 psi and it would not be effected by the lack of air capacity that you have with your existing set up. That way you will have all the benefits of the higher pressure twin for tires and air tools without blowing out your seals because they would be protected by the regulator.

October 1, 2018
11:16 am
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Tyler - K6TLR
Rancho Cordova
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Jeff_R said

Tyler – K6TLR said
Setup the regulator and was working on calibrating it to 95psi. Once I got it there, the twin arb cycled on and off every 2 seconds because there wasn’t enough of an air reserve between the regulator and compressor to stop compressor air spikes from happening when the compressor was on.
So… 9pm…
Either move the regulator over to right before the manifold, and hope there is enough air reserve in 3.5ft of 3/8 ID hose… or dismount the compressor, take it apart and replace the pressure cutoff switch with the switch from my old compressor. Option 1 was 50/50 on working imo… Option 2 was 100% on working if my old switch worked (which it was when I dismounted the old compressor). Option 2 it is…
Took everything apart, installed the old switch, put everything back together, and at 10:30pm, everything finally worked as intended. 5 gallon air tank, twin arb, air coupler in the rear to air up, 2 up front, system shuts off at 90psi, lockers all work.

If you have a tank then one possible solution would be to feed your 95 psi regulator for your lockers with a line coming from the tank. That way you could run the higher pressure pressure switch on your compressor without it cycling on and off since the source for your lockers would be the reserve air pressure in your tank. And when the compressor cycles on to fill the tank it will shut off at 150 psi and it would not be effected by the lack of air capacity that you have with your existing set up. That way you will have all the benefits of the higher pressure twin for tires and air tools without blowing out your seals because they would be protected by the regulator.  

I like this idea a lot. Once I get around to learning how to weld, and putting in a welder, i will have a major use to use air tools, then I will be doing it this way.

As it sits right now, I aired up my rig in about 5 minutes from 7psi to 30psi. It was awesome. I have a couple of things I want to change about it’s current setup (one of the coupler fittings, and still need to run a line to the front bumper), but it is working great! I should be at the club meeting this month, so we can compare setups 😛

October 30, 2018
1:08 pm
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Jeff_R
Meadow Vista
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The ARB Twin compressor wiring harness is wired so that the front locker can’t be activated unless the rear locker is on. This is a safety precaution to prevent accidental activation of the front locker and potential loss of control. However, many of us like to be able to activate the front locker without the rear in some situations. I was able to find a link on how to modify the ARB wiring harness so that the lockers can be used independently. I was able to easily modify the wiring harness to enable independent locker activation. Below is a link to the article that contains the instructions. Note that there is an error in the instructions. It reads:

“In the wiring instructions that come with the ARB, “Switch 1” is supposed to be the rear locker switch and “Switch 2” the front locker switch. If you want to be able to use your front locker without the rear locker, just take the wire that goes to terminal 3 on switch 2 and instead of using the yellow wire, tie it into the red wire that feeds terminal 2 of switch 1”. It should have said to take the wire that goes to terminal 2 (not 3) on switch 2 as per the diagram in the article (see below). So essentially you just cut the yellow wire on switch 2 and connect it to the red (hot) wire on switch 1. Just be sure to cap or cover the loose end of the yellow wire that went to switch 2 because it will become hot when switch 1 is in the on position.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how…..al-corner/

 

In the wiring instructions that come with the ARB, “Switch 1” is supposed to be the rear locker switch and “Switch 2” the front locker switch. If you want to be able to use your front locker without the rear locker, just take the wire that goes to terminal 3 on switch 2 and instead of using the yellow wire, tie it into the red wire that feeds terminal 2 of switch 1.Image Enlarger
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