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Axle Talk
January 29, 2010
3:12 pm
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"RobD" wrote: Exactly!!! Keane, post a picture of your arms so he can see what he has to look forward too mr-green mr-green mr-green mr-green mr-green mr-green mr-green

You've got to pay for tickets to the gun show. lol

January 29, 2010
3:14 pm
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"finder_87" wrote: How come nobody has mentioned a 9 inch? I know they can be built solid and light and great clearance for front or rear applications. I have a 9 inch front end project I've been tinkering with over the past couple months.

My friend Eric runs a 9" in the rear. It seems to do fine and I've seen him work it pretty hard. The only problem I can remember him having on it was when he realized that he'd twisted the splines on both shafts at one point. Neither broke, but I think he was running 33s on it at that point.

February 6, 2010
3:14 am
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troyman
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I ran a 9" in the rear of my TJ. Things to consider when running a 9":

* Pinion is extremely low, stock wheelbase Jeep, I wouldn't go over about a 4.5" lift. I had a 7" stretch and ran 37's and about 5" lift
* They're strong as hell, lightweight and expensive to build right.
* You can debate it all you want, it's cheaper to build a comparable low pinion D60, super cheap to build a 14-bolt or D70.
* You're driveshaft will be in the rocks, plan on a pinion guard
* If you go with a high pinion 9", Currie's isn't a true 9"
* If you go with a True Hi-9, better plan to dig really deep into those pockets.
* Converting a 9" to disks is expensive depending upon which outters you end up with
* The idea of a drop-out third is nice, until you go to change the gear oil. Unless you convert to full float, plan to jack up the rig, pull both wheels off, take your brakes apart and pull the shafts.
* You've got some really deep gear options with a 9" and it stays strong (or stronger) as you get deeper into gears
* Mine had problems with the pinion seal leaking, might have just been mine....
* The housing are completely made of steel that you can weld on anywhere, nice for linking the rig or triangulating as there is no special welding technique to weld to the center.

Other axles:
* Portals would kick @ss and it would be like running 40's!
* D44 - don't waste your time/money
* D70 - stock with 35 splines, but really wide
* 14 bolt - strong as a D70, low hanging diff....
* If you go high pinion rear, you're running on the coast side of the gears in a rear application, but your driveline is out of the rocks.
* 5.38 is as deep as you get in gears for a HP D60
* Low pinion generally means much lower cost
* Building it over time, you'll get a nice axle that is comparable to the high dollar ones out of a crate and you'll know exactly how it goes together and pick and choose exactly what goes into it

I think most of the guys on here will agree, 37" is about as tall as you want to go on a stock TJ/YJ wheelbase

Other things, you'll end up with a 1350 or 1410 u-joint on the axle so plan on driveline mods. Technically I suppose you could stick with a 1310, but why???

Like Rob said, there's a reason 1-tons are 8 lug 😉

Plan on your wife hating your Jeep....... lol

Out in the garage collecting parts....

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