9:25 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline
Thinking about axles for my Jeep...
I'm doing a lot of debating between strength vs cost.
My original plan was to build up my stock front D44 and get a 60 for the rear. But, I guess there is going to be problems with running an ARB in the rear and being able to activate my stock front locker. The stock rear locker has to be locked before the front can be locked, and since the stock rear won't be there to communicate this, I won't be able to lock the front. Plus, the stock front housing just isn't as strong as aftermarket options, no matter how much money I throw at it.
So now I'm thinking about a Dynatrac Prorock 44 in the front and a Dynatrac Trail 60 in the rear. These seem to be the preferred axles on a budget. Anybody heard good bad or anything else about this setup? I plan on running my 37s for now and upgrading to 38s when it's time to replace them. Any issues that I need to be aware of?
I'm anxious to get out there again...
I used to wheel a lot. . .
9:52 am
April 23, 2012
Offline Not saying don't get axles but it is very easy to wire the lockers to their own individual hard switch and turn them on whenever.
10:04 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline scoped said
Not saying don't get axles but it is very easy to wire the lockers to their own individual hard switch and turn them on whenever.
I have zero clue how to do those types of things but thanks, this is the kind of information I need to make an informed decision.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
11:19 am
Club Member
January 20, 2009
Offline I have my lockers independently wired through a power distribution module and a wired in a safety switch. Safety (ground) switch is next to the steering column and needs to be on for the locker switches to work. Let me know if you would like some help and we can come up with a setup that works for you.
Wiring isn't too difficult, just time consuming. And I use the heat shrink water tight connectors.
I have a PDM60 which is programmable and allows up to 6 connections. There's also S-Pod, and Greg has another brand that came out more recently. I believe they are all CANBUS friendly.
As far as axles, Dynatrac's are always solid, but can be pricey. I'm happy with my UD60s and can point out the weak points that should be reinforced with some gussets. Also, the UD60 rear is full-float.
Do you want to stay with 5-lug, or go to 8-lug?
Hope this helps!
1:11 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Some sets I'm looking at...
Dynatrac Prorock 44 and 60 combo ($10,600):
https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-.....settm.html
Dynatrac Prorock 60s front/rear ($12,500): Special package to compete with Dana's
https://www.northridge4x4.com/.....rock-60-60
Dana Ultimate 60s front/rear ($13,200):
I used to wheel a lot. . .
1:17 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline I love axle talk!! I have to say that if i were in your shoes, and considering the 44/60 combo, I's be hard pressed not to make the jump to the 60/60 deal that dynatrac has. UD60s are also a great choice like Kevin said.
Do you plan to run RCVs in the prorock 44? I know some have ran 40s on the p44. Even dynatrac said they wouldn't hesitate but for warranty purposes, they say 37s max.
Guy and Lynda are running the p44 in there 2 door jk. Seems to be working good for them.
Um...what?
1:35 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Great questions Greg. I eventually will upgrade to 38 or 40 inch tires. My whole goal is to get back into wheeling a lot (again) and NOT have to worry about fixing crap every time I go out. I spent some coin upgrading my TJ and it was nice to have that piece of mind. I want to do the same with this JK before I go out and flog it. The Dynatrac 60/60 full float at $12,500 sure does make it tempting to just save a little longer. Does anybody know how the Dynatracs work with ABS?
I used to wheel a lot. . .
5:56 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline Plug and play with the ABS and ESP. They use tone rings on the front hub.
Um...what?
8:26 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline I think my plan will be to get the RCV shafts for the fronts and 10 Factory shafts for the rear and wheel it on my 37s.
Then start saving my pennies for the Dynatracs axles, hydro assist, and 40s.
Might even end up with coilovers along the way.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
10:59 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
Offline Does that price for the UD60s include the driveshafts? Driveshafts alone are around $800-$1000. Just wondering.
4:52 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline k-jeep said
Does that price for the UD60s include the driveshafts? Driveshafts alone are around $800-$1000. Just wondering.
$14,400 with the driveshafts.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
8:40 am
Club Member
January 19, 2011
Offline JohnDF said
$14,400 with the driveshafts.
Not cheap. But if you build it strong the first time you will save money on future upgrades and fixes. Just one mans opinion. Lots of options to choose from now. Have fun planning John!
Semper Fi
8:51 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline JohnDF said
$14,400 with the driveshafts.
I love Northridge 4x4 and they sponsor our show but shop around and ask them to beat the prices...
Um...what?
9:24 am
April 16, 2016
Offline JohnDF said
I think my plan will be to get the RCV shafts for the fronts and 10 Factory shafts for the rear and wheel it on my 37s.Then start saving my pennies for the Dynatracs axles, hydro assist, and 40s.
Might even end up with coilovers along the way.
That is exactly my plan. In fact I am starting a bit of a rebuild next week at WFO in Auburn. Keep in mind you can get the 10 Factory Shafts from Northridge already assembled for $460. Unfortunately the HIGHSIERRA4X4 discount code, or any other code for that matter, won't work as they don't apply discount codes to items that involve labor fees. However, you will get free freight. My 10 Factory shafts showed up with bearings pressed and tone rings on ready to be installed.
For now the rest of my build includes: Drive Shafts with 1450 CV's from Driveline Service in West Sacramento. Synergy Long Arm Kit with Sector Shaft Brace, Drag Link and Track Bar. New Fox CD Adjustuble Shocks.
10:55 am
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
Offline JohnDF said
I think my plan will be to get the RCV shafts for the fronts and 10 Factory shafts for the rear and wheel it on my 37s.Then start saving my pennies for the Dynatracs axles, hydro assist, and 40s.
Might even end up with coilovers along the way.
Good plan though I would add C-gussets and a truss to your front axle now. 37s are a lot of leverage on the ends of the axle. C-gussets and a truss is just cheap insurance. Since you are already planning on 40s, skip the dynatrac 44 front and go straight to 60s or 60/80 combo.
Also, I prefer to use local shops for drive shafts but Tom Woods has a new 1410CV for the rear of the JK.
10:58 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Gregulator said
I love Northridge 4x4 and they sponsor our show but shop around and ask them to beat the prices...
Good price with the added bonus of drive lines.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
11:00 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Sharkbyte said
Keep in mind you can get the 10 Factory Shafts from Northridge already assembled for $460. Unfortunately the HIGHSIERRA4X4 discount code, or any other code for that matter, won't work as they don't apply discount codes to items that involve labor fees. However, you will get free freight. My 10 Factory shafts showed up with bearings pressed and tone rings on ready to be installed..
Good to know. Thanks.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
11:05 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline kris_olof said
I would add C-gussets and a truss to your front axle now.
I've already done the gussets and sleeves. I went with sleeves instead of a truss, mostly because it's easier to mess up a front axle by improperly welding on a truss.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
11:12 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline kris_olof said
Since you are already planning on 40s, skip the dynatrac 44 front and go straight to 60s or 60/80 combo.
All that will depend on the budget and if I have to do it all in pieces. I have absolutely no doubt that I can make a well built D44 hold up to 40 inch tires, but a D60 has an added piece of mind. But it's all up in the air right now and I'll have to see how the savings go and how long it is going to take. I'm leaving my options open at this point.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
4:01 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline So, the big question is:
Does the UD60 have anything over the PR60, or visa versa?
Post up the strength/weakness of each and let the debates begin.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
5:00 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
Offline JohnDF said
So, the big question is:Does the UD60 have anything over the PR60, or visa versa?
Post up the strength/weakness of each and let the debates begin.
UD60 has larger U-joints, larger brakes, larger ring gear, larger diameter tubes, and re-uses existing steering and track bar.
PR60 has thicker tubes, is more customizable, and can be had with their balljoints for extra $
Because the UD60 uses a 1550 series u-joint I'm guessing that the Cs come of the 05+ superduty parts pile which are larger than the earlier ball joint dana 60 Cs
5:07 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
Offline JohnDF said
So, the big question is:Does the UD60 have anything over the PR60, or visa versa?
Post up the strength/weakness of each and let the debates begin.
UD60 rear is full-float. Dynatrac Trail Series 60 is semi-float.
UD60s are 8-lug and have HUGE brakes. PR?
PRs probably have better brackets. Although I heard Spicer made changes to their brackets since I bought mine.
I think UD60s have an ARB option now if you don't want E-lockers. I haven't had any problems with my E-lockers.
PRs have way more options if you want to spend the $$$.
I'll add more if I think of anything else.
5:19 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
Offline There are 2 other big contenders for front 60s. Currie has the rotated housing for better clearance but also has the option for Dana 70 center. Teraflex also has a rotated housing but also has custom Cs and outer knuckles specifically forged for the JK.
6:21 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline The Dynatrac 44/60 hybrid looks "Way-Cool-a-Go-Go".
Has a 44 center section and all 60 outers. Very much like my old Tera 50.
I beat the crap out of that old Tera 50 and it never made a peep.
Could you imagine how strong that would be running 37s?
I used to wheel a lot. . .
6:45 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
Offline Absolutely do not buy anything from Currie for the front end.
Their meshed unit bearings are garbage and cost 450 each to replace. I am on number 5 and 6 currently, and need number 7.
37 is max tire size for them, which you already run.
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