JK Suspensions

The RE kit doesn't come with adjustable control arms I thought. That made me steer away from them. The synergy kits look really nice but the price seems hard to swallow. I found the Rock Krawler kits to be the most components/bang for the buck. Right now for me, that will be the direction I will be headed unless Kevin's jeep rides like a dream, I will switch and pay extra for Metalcloak.

The budget/supreme ride I see over on JKO is Metalcloak arms and synergy springs.

I "read" that the Synergy springs were awesome.
I like the Rock Krawler lift, but the back is lifted less than the front and I hear their joints are "noisy".

RE lift with shocks, Synergy high steer, track bar, and sector shaft track bar brace = $2500.00
Synergy lift with shocks, high steer, track bar, and sector shaft track bar brace = $3000.000

Are the little extras (spring retainers, bump stops, shock re-locators, adjustable arms, spring clips) and a "nice ride" worth $500.00?

I've run two RE lifts. My experience with the product / vender has been positive. I had some parts replaced under warranty free of charge. No hassles.

I owed the RE 3.5" Super Flex lift before upgrading to a long arm. The upper arms were adjustable.

JohnDF said Are the little extras (spring retainers, bump stops, shock re-locators, adjustable arms, spring clips) and a "nice ride" worth $500.00?

If this will be your daily driver spend the extra $ for the nice ride. You will appreciate it every day!

Josh said

I had some parts replaced under warranty free of charge. No hassles.

What parts needed to be replaced?

Josh said

I've run two RE lifts. My experience with the product / vender has been positive. I had some parts replaced under warranty free of charge. No hassles.

I owed the RE 3.5" Super Flex lift before upgrading to a long arm. The upper arms were adjustable.

I noticed that as well. Im not sure why adjustable lowers are a priority. I recall people bending lower arms at the threads. Wouldn't not have adjustment threads be a good thing?

I don't think lower adjustable arms are necessary, as long as the company has the correct length on the lower arms. The pinion angles are set with the uppers anyways. The lowers just center the wheels in the wells, and like I said, if the company knows what they are doing. . .

I think I'm leaning towards the Synergy lift kit.
1. They seem to be rated very highly
2. The kit comes with many more pieces
3. They make all the components I want to add (sector shaft track bar brace)
4. All their components work together as a unit (no Frankenlift)
5. They seem to have the correct geometry without having to add pieces (increased roll center)
6. Everybody seems to like the way it rides with their progressive rate coils
7. They lift the front and rear equally
8. They have a very good warranty
9. Do it once and do it correctly
10. Just because I'm OCD and have to have a 10th reason

What exact kit from synergy are you looking at?

If you're truly OCD, you call it CDO so it's in alphabetical order.

I'm looking at the 3.5" stage 3

JohnDF said

Josh said

I had some parts replaced under warranty free of charge. No hassles.

What parts needed to be replaced?

Bushings.

They were replaced and installed for free for me by Four Wheel Parts and Rubicon Express.

I'm glad that the RE stuff is getting warrantied now that 4 Wheel Parts bought them out. They used to be horrible in that regard.

JohnDF said

I'm glad that the RE stuff is getting warrantied now that 4 Wheel Parts bought them out. They used to be horrible in that regard.

RE always warranted my lift, including the multiple track bars i replaced. All for free. Joints too, when I had some rubber bushings fail..

Here's my thought on warranties. I'd rather have a durable and reliable part than a crappy part with a warranty, especially for a daily driver. If/when that part fails and needs to be replaced, even under warranty, your daily driver will be out of commission.

Fred said

Here's my thought on warranties. I'd rather have a durable and reliable part than a crappy part with a warranty, especially for a daily driver. If/when that part fails and needs to be replaced, even under warranty, your daily driver will be out of commission.

I think this is a great point, especially when you are relying on a vehicle.

Probably reading WAY too much on the internet. Is the high steer required for 3.5" lift?
Reading tons of horror stories about reaming or drilling the knuckle for the flip kit.
Also, reading that you have to use BIG bump stops in the front to keep everything from hitting the frame.

If high steer is required, then I'll probably do the Synergy kit.
If high steer isn't needed, then probably the Rock Krawler kit.

Drilling hi-steer took 5 minutes. People who don't know how to use a taper bit, or have no mechanical skill should be paying someone else to do it! Clearance on a JK is tighter than a TJ simply because less lift is requried for larger tires. The only down side I can think of is bump-steer from improper steering geomety.

I believe 3" is the minumum required lift for hi-steer, so you'd be just above it.

So, what I'm hearing is, "When it's time to drill the knuckle, hand the drill to Brad."
One last question Brad; Use a tapered reamer OR drill a hole and put in an adapter?

JohnDF said

So, what I'm hearing is, "When it's time to drill the knuckle, hand the drill to Brad."
One last question Brad; Use a tapered reamer OR drill a hole and put in an adapter?

It depends on your hi-steer kit. I have both the tapered reamer and the larger diameter drillbit (I believe it was 9/16"😉. I have 1/2, 9/16 and 5/8. Anything different and I have to check. I think one kit used a drill and a sleeve you pop in. I can't remember which kit is on my jeep and which one's i've installed. I've probably done 4 or 5 of them, maybe more.

The kit I'm looking at uses the tapered reamer but had the option to drill it out and use an insert (for $10 more). Sounds like the tapered reamer is the quick solution then.