11:19 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
I was originally (and grudgingly) going to get the Rubicon Express 3.5" Super Flex lift. It seemed like a good price and came with all the control arms. However, I've NOT had good luck with Rubicon Express in the past and it's hard to get the sour taste out of my mouth when I think about them.
Now doing my research, the RE kit doesn't come with everything I need or want. I'd have to upgrade the track bar to be able to run a sector shaft track bar brace. I'd also have to upgrade to high steer. I'd also like to get some shock re-locators and a few other small items to make the lift complete.
Again, doing the research, I think the best option would be the Synergy 3.5" Stage 3 lift. It's more money but comes with a lot more stuff; high steer, rear coil adjusters, spring clips, shock re-locators, and they offer a sector shaft track bar brace that works with their adjustable track bar. Everything works together as a complete system. They also seem to be one of the top rated and recommended lifts.
Any thought?
I used to wheel a lot. . .
1:39 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
The RE kit doesn't come with adjustable control arms I thought. That made me steer away from them. The synergy kits look really nice but the price seems hard to swallow. I found the Rock Krawler kits to be the most components/bang for the buck. Right now for me, that will be the direction I will be headed unless Kevin's jeep rides like a dream, I will switch and pay extra for Metalcloak.
The budget/supreme ride I see over on JKO is Metalcloak arms and synergy springs.
Um...what?
2:42 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
RE lift with shocks, Synergy high steer, track bar, and sector shaft track bar brace = $2500.00
Synergy lift with shocks, high steer, track bar, and sector shaft track bar brace = $3000.000
Are the little extras (spring retainers, bump stops, shock re-locators, adjustable arms, spring clips) and a "nice ride" worth $500.00?
I used to wheel a lot. . .
12:45 am
Club President
April 2, 2003
Josh said
I've run two RE lifts. My experience with the product / vender has been positive. I had some parts replaced under warranty free of charge. No hassles.
I owed the RE 3.5" Super Flex lift before upgrading to a long arm. The upper arms were adjustable.
I noticed that as well. Im not sure why adjustable lowers are a priority. I recall people bending lower arms at the threads. Wouldn't not have adjustment threads be a good thing?
7:29 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
I don't think lower adjustable arms are necessary, as long as the company has the correct length on the lower arms. The pinion angles are set with the uppers anyways. The lowers just center the wheels in the wells, and like I said, if the company knows what they are doing. . .
I used to wheel a lot. . .
7:41 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
I think I'm leaning towards the Synergy lift kit.
1. They seem to be rated very highly
2. The kit comes with many more pieces
3. They make all the components I want to add (sector shaft track bar brace)
4. All their components work together as a unit (no Frankenlift)
5. They seem to have the correct geometry without having to add pieces (increased roll center)
6. Everybody seems to like the way it rides with their progressive rate coils
7. They lift the front and rear equally
8. They have a very good warranty
9. Do it once and do it correctly
10. Just because I'm OCD and have to have a 10th reason
I used to wheel a lot. . .
3:38 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
10:03 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
7:49 am
Club President
April 2, 2003
Fred said
Here's my thought on warranties. I'd rather have a durable and reliable part than a crappy part with a warranty, especially for a daily driver. If/when that part fails and needs to be replaced, even under warranty, your daily driver will be out of commission.
I think this is a great point, especially when you are relying on a vehicle.
8:23 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Probably reading WAY too much on the internet. Is the high steer required for 3.5" lift?
Reading tons of horror stories about reaming or drilling the knuckle for the flip kit.
Also, reading that you have to use BIG bump stops in the front to keep everything from hitting the frame.
If high steer is required, then I'll probably do the Synergy kit.
If high steer isn't needed, then probably the Rock Krawler kit.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
2:19 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
Drilling hi-steer took 5 minutes. People who don't know how to use a taper bit, or have no mechanical skill should be paying someone else to do it! Clearance on a JK is tighter than a TJ simply because less lift is requried for larger tires. The only down side I can think of is bump-steer from improper steering geomety.
I believe 3" is the minumum required lift for hi-steer, so you'd be just above it.
5:22 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
JohnDF said
So, what I'm hearing is, "When it's time to drill the knuckle, hand the drill to Brad."
One last question Brad; Use a tapered reamer OR drill a hole and put in an adapter?
It depends on your hi-steer kit. I have both the tapered reamer and the larger diameter drillbit (I believe it was 9/16"). I have 1/2, 9/16 and 5/8. Anything different and I have to check. I think one kit used a drill and a sleeve you pop in. I can't remember which kit is on my jeep and which one's i've installed. I've probably done 4 or 5 of them, maybe more.
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