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JK Talk
January 19, 2014
9:29 pm
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Gregulator
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So, sorry to be a newb with these sensors, but what do they do besides create a hassle when wanting to swap axles?

Um...what?

January 20, 2014
11:05 am
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Tom
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BKGM Jeepers said
I dont run rear coilovers because they are not needed. The fronts make a huge difference on ride. The rears are either limited by a sway bar, or your on road ride is impacted. You should ride in Jason’s jeep to see what a properly set up full coilover jeep rides like. Then ride in mine to see how fronts only feel like. Both are good.

Brad, do/did either you or Jason go to the crossover 4-link rear or do you both still run track bars?
=====

If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading -- Lao Tzu

January 20, 2014
12:02 pm
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When he thinks he's done...Ask him if he rememberd to wash out the front axle tubes,the mud between the sliders and the body and did he remember to pull the rear rotors while he had the tires off and check the emergency brakes!

January 20, 2014
3:14 pm
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BKGM Jeepers
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Gregulator said

So, sorry to be a newb with these sensors, but what do they do besides create a hassle when wanting to swap axles?

They control all your electronics. There aren't any problems swapping axles, you just need to plan for proper connections during a build.

January 20, 2014
3:16 pm
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BKGM Jeepers
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Tom said

BKGM Jeepers said
I dont run rear coilovers because they are not needed. The fronts make a huge difference on ride. The rears are either limited by a sway bar, or your on road ride is impacted. You should ride in Jason’s jeep to see what a properly set up full coilover jeep rides like. Then ride in mine to see how fronts only feel like. Both are good.

Brad, do/did either you or Jason go to the crossover 4-link rear or do you both still run track bars?
=====

I did not. I'm not interested in the resulting "tail wag".

January 20, 2014
6:57 pm
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Gregulator
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Thanks for answering all my questions Brad. I've been researching a lot on other forums as well. I just have a few more axle questions...So your saying all the electronics I need like the tone ring can be swapped to any axle? I'm asking because I'd really like to run these: http://www.trail-gear.com/rock.....oller-kits
Or possibly Curries F9. I'm not sure though yet. It seems like Currie Rock Jocks are the cheapest.

Are you running the stock rear brakes and the front stock caliper? Is that enough stopping power for 38-40s?

Um...what?

January 20, 2014
7:52 pm
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BKGM Jeepers
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I run a G2 rear axle, and a Currie front axle. The real uses re drilled factory rotors with the factory brakes. My fronts run different rotors (non stock) but again use the factory brakes and calipers. The tone rings transfer but you must have the core set up on your axle so the to e rings connect up. You cant do a junkyard set up unless you buy and weld on the builder kit for the tone rings.

Ive heard you can buy builder tone rings so any axle can be built and installed In a Jk. Any properly built axle will be factory install able, or the builder is crap. This isnt new tech. It’s been 7 years on the market. You should expect factory performance from whatever axle you buy.

Yes, my brakes work more than fine with 38s. My axles work fine as well.

January 20, 2014
9:10 pm
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Gregulator
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Thanks Brad. I've been wanting to hear from other JK enthusiasts as well...Huck, Josh, Jon? I know Kevin has been doing a lot of research. Post up your findings K-dwag!! We all want to learn!!

Um...what?

January 21, 2014
7:28 am
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Tom
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Brad, so you are running a radius arm on your front axle? Good to know.

Is the rear 4-link radius arms as well or did you stay with the UCAs and LCAs?
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If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading -- Lao Tzu

January 21, 2014
9:18 pm
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BKGM Jeepers
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Front and rear are both radius arms. Neither end has true upper control arms.

January 22, 2014
8:05 am
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Though no where near as legit as Brads or Jasons ive been blown away with how capable the vehical has been both stock and with the minimal amount of money I have put into it.
- I do think if your going to get an auto you have to get the 3.6/5 speed option
If you get the older 3.8 you must get a 3 pedal version

January 22, 2014
8:41 am
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Tom
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BKGM Jeepers said

Front and rear are both radius arms. Neither end has true upper control arms.

Good to know! Thanks!!
=====

If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading -- Lao Tzu

January 22, 2014
10:41 am
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Gregulator
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scoped said

Though no where near as legit as Brads or Jasons ive been blown away with how capable the vehical has been both stock and with the minimal amount of money I have put into it.
- I do think if your going to get an auto you have to get the 3.6/5 speed option
If you get the older 3.8 you must get a 3 pedal version

I'm impressed with what you have been able to do with your jeep as well. Are you still running an stock control arms?

Don't worry, after driving the 3.6l, I'll be buying that motor.

Um...what?

January 22, 2014
10:32 pm
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Josh
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Gregulator said

Thanks Brad. I've been wanting to hear from other JK enthusiasts as well...Huck, Josh, Jon? I know Kevin has been doing a lot of research. Post up your findings K-dwag!! We all want to learn!!

I built my Jeep exactly how I wanted it for how I know I drive. My advice to you would be to buy the base model of the model type that you like and build it up from there. Personally I think the aftermarket parts for wheeling blow away the stock components. Build it up one part at a time and build it the way you want.

Semper Fi

January 22, 2014
11:45 pm
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I have front LCAs rest are stock

As far as buying a base and building or buying a rubi I have different opinions on this

- if you are gonna buy a base and have an additional 10-15 thousand dollars to throw in right away then fantastic and probably the way to go and probably what i would do if I were in said position now

- if you do not have the large additional liquid to throw in right away as in my case there is no way i would be able to do what I have done. I would have misses out on many of the trips, experiences, and fun I have had. Though with the savings from buying a base and time I have had I may have some more legit parts than I have now that "fun, experience and use of the vehicle" are worth far more in my book than if I had a couple of 60s or a long arm on the vehicle now and had missed most things I've done with it in the past few years
- this being said i purchased
My Jk when they were new. it was my first off road vehicle (i had always built little sports cars) and i had no experience in off road vehicles and what to build so i just bought what i thought was the best factory rig and there was little used market in JKs

January 23, 2014
5:32 am
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JohnDF
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I mentioned this the other night; If I was buying a JK to start wheeling with, I'd buy a Rubicon model, replace the rear axle with a D60, put chromo shafts in the stock front axle, and lift it to run 37" tires. That would be a pretty capable rig with minimal modifications.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

January 23, 2014
12:17 pm
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Gregulator
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All great points! I appreciate the input. I'm petty sure I'd like to make my way to 38-40 inch tire range. With that goal, I think it kills the rubicon idea because the front axle would need to be replaced.

Brad raises a great point of being able to sell the Rubi parts, but dealing with craiglisters like I have been the last couple weeks leaves me no desire to do that.

Um...what?

January 23, 2014
2:02 pm
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Tom
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Gregulator said

All great points! I appreciate the input. I’m petty sure I’d like to make my way to 38-40 inch tire range. With that goal, I think it kills the rubicon idea because the front axle would need to be replaced.

Brad raises a great point of being able to sell the Rubi parts, but dealing with craiglisters like I have been the last couple weeks leaves me no desire to do that.

Greg, make me a deal on your front D44 and I could take that off your hands ... hmmm, maybe both.
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If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading -- Lao Tzu

January 23, 2014
3:47 pm
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Tom said

Gregulator said

All great points! I appreciate the input. I’m petty sure I’d like to make my way to 38-40 inch tire range. With that goal, I think it kills the rubicon idea because the front axle would need to be replaced.

Brad raises a great point of being able to sell the Rubi parts, but dealing with craiglisters like I have been the last couple weeks leaves me no desire to do that.

Greg, make me a deal on your front D44 and I could take that off your hands ... hmmm, maybe both.
=====

Hahaha!!! I'll keep you in mind.

Um...what?

January 23, 2014
8:48 pm
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BKGM Jeepers
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You don't sell on craigslist. You sell on the JK forum. Way better value for parts over there. Sold most of my parts on that board. You can even look at JKs for sale over there!

January 24, 2014
11:01 pm
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Gregulator
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Don't worry, I'm on all the JK boards poking around.

Um...what?

March 5, 2014
5:13 pm
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huck271
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Greg,

Sorry haven’t been on the board in a while so I missed this topic. Here are a couple of comments suggestions. As most answers to questions are “it depends” on what you want. I will propose two scenarios budget and non-budget:

Budget: If I was on a tight budget and wanted the best bang for the buck here is what I would do..
Model: I would get a salvaged JK from Copart or browse craigslist for the cheapest JK with 4wd I could get. I wouldn’t care about half doors or full doors or options just the cheapest body. ( I picked up the White Jeep for $9500)
I would source some used Rubicon axles (people are always pulling these off to put on D60s) I picked up a pair for $2800 that were already regeared to 5.38. I added a “broken” Rubicon swaybar disconnect with a hand release for ($150).
Lift kits, I really like the EVO stuff but its pricey the game changer from Metalcloak is pretty stout and if you get the plain shocks (not the 6 pack) its half as much. ($1900 plain, $3900 with 6 pack) I got the EVO bolt on coilover front and rear at around $4k. Going this route for less than 20k you can get the Jeep, axles & lockers, sway disconnect, & lift to fit 37s. (just trim the fenders with a saw) While you may not find one for 10k I have seen several 07s and 08s in stock form going for 13-15k with under 50k miles. Everything you pull off you can sell and get a little money back on. Full doors are traded for Half doors all the time on the forums and vice versa. Same with Hard Tops/Soft Tops/ used bumpers etc.. Most programers can disable the electronics so no sensors will be effected in the wheels or the stability control systems.

Non-Budget: Look for the mall crawler. They guy that bought a 12′ Rubicon and its sitting on some budget boost with polished rims 35s. I see lots of these low mileage vehicles for in the low 20s. This vehicle will only need a lift and to trade up to some better rims and tires, but not immediately. A Rubicon with 2-4″ of lift and 35s can do 95% of whats in the area including the Rubicon front to back. 37s would be better, but with this rig at least your wheeling right away and you don’t have to worry about the previous owner. He probably didn’t know how to work the lockers anyway and never got it dirty.

Lift Kit – Primarily make sure you have 3.5-4.5″ of lift minimum. At that height it will clear 37s or 38s with some cutting. You will want to get a long arm kit. The JK comes with essentially a mid-arm setup. The long arm will give it better road manners and articulation control. I like the Metal Cloak Game Changer (2-4k), I like the EVO Bolt On Coil Over (4k), I’ve heard rock crawler is very popular.

Coil Overs – This is all about the ride quality. having coil-overs won’t mean greater ability (unless the coilovers are larger in articulation compared to a similar coil and shock setup) it means a better ride on the trail. They absorb more bumps and can do so at higher speeds. if you are going all out they are the must have items for huge articulation and going fast, if that is not the goal then I wouldn’t spend the money on them. I agree with Brad on take a ride in his Jeep or mine or the white one to see the differences.

Axles – The factory D44s are pretty awesome. With minimum upgrades they can run 37-38s all day. Jeff knows Nate from Grassvalley, he and his friend John run 38″ MTRs on the factory axles and have been doing all our trails plus going to MOAB every spring for the past 3-4 years. Good C-gussets, LCA skids are all that is really needed. The rear is pretty solid as is. Better shafts are nice but I wouldn’t replace them until I broke them. If you are going 38-40s for sure then get some D60s or if you got the pennys a PR80 in the rear. If you go the Junkyard axle type all that is needed is a press on tone ring for about $80 a pair. They can be put on 14 bolts, 60s, 70s, etc..

Electronics – There are TPMS sensors in the wheels a good programmer will disable that. If you don’t have tone rings then your stability control will be affected. This too can be disabled with a good programmer. I have a friend who replaced his rear axle with a 14 bolt and just tied the rear sensors into the front sensors and doesn’t have any issues. The JK computer just needs a signal. You could actually tie all four into just one sensor and trick the computer if you wanted to.

Transmissions – If you “love” a manual get one, I prefer the automatic for drivability both on and off road but that’s me. This is purely personal preference.

Tire size – If you are getting a 2dr 37s are great, you don’t need any bigger. If you are getting a JKU I recommend 38s to 40s. Just because of the added length between the wheels. 37s would be a minimum on a 4dr.

IMO: The things that start to add to the cost are all the extras. Your going to want a nice set of sliders ($600), Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier ($1000-$1500), Front Bumper ($600), Winch ($400 – $1400), Better Skid Plates ($750), CB Radio ($100), Air Compressor ($150-$450), Rims ($1000-$2000), 37+ ($1500 – $3000), hydraulic steering ($1500), the list goes on and on..

PS. If you do start getting ready to make some purchases let me know. I might be able to save you a buck or two.

Huck





March 5, 2014
6:12 pm
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Gregulator
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Thanks Huck!

Great suggestions. I picked up 2014 Rubicon Unlimited. I'm still torn on the direction I want to go. I know someday I'd like to see it on 60/80 and 40s. But that won't be for 6 years or so. I'm trying to figure out if I should go budget boost and 35s and spend my money armoring up with bumpers and rails, winch, bead locks, and skid plates or go for the Evo Enforcer or even jump straight to a long arm.

If I go straight long arm, that will slow bead locks, winch and bumper purchases. Hmm. I just don't know yet.

Um...what?

March 5, 2014
6:53 pm
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Artec is going to be announcing some new gear for the JK at EJS. Looks interesting. Here’s a peek about midway down...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum.....ndex3.html

If all goes as planned, this may be a busy build-up summer https://posse4x4.org/wp-content/sp-resources/forum-smileys/icon_emot-dance.gif. If it doesn’t then very little will change this summer https://posse4x4.org/wp-content/sp-resources/forum-smileys/sf-cry.gif. Stay tuned.

March 5, 2014
10:09 pm
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Go Strait to a long arm I'm at the point now where I need to redo everything

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