2:20 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Should I replace the rear drive shaft on my JKU when I put in the lift? According to the manufacturers (and interforums), the rear drive shaft does not need to be replaced with a 3.5" lift on the 4 door Jeeps. If it was YOUR money, would you spend the extra $450.00 and replace the factory shaft? Or would you skip it until the factory shaft shows signs of letting go?
I used to wheel a lot. . .
3:09 pm
October 9, 2014
3:55 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
4:14 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Justin S. said
I don't know much about JKs, but I assume the lift stretches the stock D-line to the max?
Nope, they are barely effected from what I hear. The only reason to replace it would be for strength on the trail. But that's just what I've been reading, no first hand experience here either.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
4:24 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
4:55 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
If you have the budget for it, I'd buy a new driveline. Just get the measurements after your jeep is lifted and on new tires. then order a DL, and install it when you have the time. Run your stock DL in the mean time so you aren't down at all.
I'm going to lengthen my DL. I'll pull it this week and try to get it extended/rebuilt before my new tires are ordered and in. I need everything fixed, including my air system.
5:06 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
BKGM Jeepers said
Just get the measurements after your jeep is lifted and on new tires. then order a DL, and install it when you have the time. Run your stock DL in the mean time so you aren't down at all.
Sounds like the BEST option. Saves me some money too.
But I figure I'll still do the ready-made in the front so we can put it in with the lift since it's more critical and we can dial in the pinion at the same time.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
8:11 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
9:01 pm
Club Member
January 19, 2011
9:07 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
7:26 am
Club President
April 2, 2003
8:42 am
Club Member
June 4, 2012
11:57 am
Club Member
March 6, 2012
9:37 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
10:18 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
12:52 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
300 for a complete rear drive line.
My new DL was 350, but because I run a 1350 rear u-joint rather than a 1310. I'm not sure what Kevin runs in his 60s. maybe the stock 1310?
Instead of a new DL, I had my existing one rebuilt. I added a full 1350 yoke (this was the most expensive piece), a servicable u-joint, a new CV up top, and sever-duty fully sealed 100K mile u-joints in the new CV. I could have kept my old DL and built another for about 80 bucks more, and left me a trail spare. But I don't need a spare DL since my rear is a HP, and I have plenty of ground clearance (when not doing stupid stuff at Prarie City).
Sac DL showed me all the mistakes made in building my existing DL. It was very interesting how little I knew about identifying where problems were and what they looked like. Also, he showed me how my DL was out of "phase", the most common contributor to vibrations in an otherwise functioning DL. I wont' discuss where it was built, other than to say the Sac DL guy was a great help. My previous experiences with Stockton DL were just as positive. Too bad they are so far away...
I may rebuild my front DL at the end of this summer.
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