Should I replace the rear drive shaft on my JKU when I put in the lift? According to the manufacturers (and interforums), the rear drive shaft does not need to be replaced with a 3.5" lift on the 4 door Jeeps. If it was YOUR money, would you spend the extra $450.00 and replace the factory shaft? Or would you skip it until the factory shaft shows signs of letting go?
I don't know much about JKs, but I assume the lift stretches the stock D-line to the max? $450 seems steep. I paid $300 each for custom shafts for ky XJ from Drive Line Service in W. Sac complete with new Spicer U-joints. Just my 2¢!
x2 for DLSac! Great customer service. I went 1310/1350 hybrids front and rear because the axles came with 1350 yokes. Better to keep the weak link in the driveline rather that the T-case or R&P.
Justin S. saidI don't know much about JKs, but I assume the lift stretches the stock D-line to the max?
Nope, they are barely effected from what I hear. The only reason to replace it would be for strength on the trail. But that's just what I've been reading, no first hand experience here either.
k-jeep saidx2 for DLSac! Great customer service.
That's fine except I want ready-made shafts so there won't be any down time. Have to get to work ya know.
JohnDF saidk-jeep saidx2 for DLSac! Great customer service.
That's fine except I want ready-made shafts so there won't be any down time. Have to get to work ya know.
Buy your son that Chevy you've been pondering. problem solved!
If you have the budget for it, I'd buy a new driveline. Just get the measurements after your jeep is lifted and on new tires. then order a DL, and install it when you have the time. Run your stock DL in the mean time so you aren't down at all.
I'm going to lengthen my DL. I'll pull it this week and try to get it extended/rebuilt before my new tires are ordered and in. I need everything fixed, including my air system.
BKGM Jeepers said Buy your son that Chevy you've been pondering. problem solved!
Ha. All that money is getting thrown at the new Jeep 
BKGM Jeepers said Just get the measurements after your jeep is lifted and on new tires. then order a DL, and install it when you have the time. Run your stock DL in the mean time so you aren't down at all.
Sounds like the BEST option. Saves me some money too.
But I figure I'll still do the ready-made in the front so we can put it in with the lift since it's more critical and we can dial in the pinion at the same time.
JohnDF saidk-jeep saidx2 for DLSac! Great customer service.
That's fine except I want ready-made shafts so there won't be any down time. Have to get to work ya know.
I ordered mine on a Friday morning and they were ready that afternoon.
k-jeep saidJohnDF saidk-jeep saidx2 for DLSac! Great customer service.
X3. Used them also. Built both of my DL. Good experience.
Im taking my rear DL there friday for lengthening and a rebuild...
Sac did my rear in a day
That being said I got about 20,000 miles out of the stock front and about 30k on the stock rear after the 4 in lift
Thanks guys, good info.
Did all of you pay $200 per drive shaft?
JohnDF saidThanks guys, good info.
Did all of you pay $200 per drive shaft?
I can get you current pricing Friday if you'd like.
BKGM Jeepers saidJohnDF saidThanks guys, good info.
Did all of you pay $200 per drive shaft?I can get you current pricing Friday if you'd like.
Thanks Brad. Get a price on front/rear 1310 CV shafts.
Sac driveline is the best!! They built custom heavy duty drivelines for my Samurai. (Used Jeep U-Joints, so they'll never break…right?) quick turn around time.
I had my rear driveshaft built at ADCO in Shingle Springs when I did the SYE on my TJ. No vibrations, some as silk now!!!
John. I'll text you on costs.
My rear DL is the correct length for your jeep. I'll price lengthening my DL, only installing new joints, and getting a new DL compketely built.. I'll see what the best pricing is.
300 for a complete rear drive line.
My new DL was 350, but because I run a 1350 rear u-joint rather than a 1310. I'm not sure what Kevin runs in his 60s. maybe the stock 1310?
Instead of a new DL, I had my existing one rebuilt. I added a full 1350 yoke (this was the most expensive piece), a servicable u-joint, a new CV up top, and sever-duty fully sealed 100K mile u-joints in the new CV. I could have kept my old DL and built another for about 80 bucks more, and left me a trail spare. But I don't need a spare DL since my rear is a HP, and I have plenty of ground clearance (when not doing stupid stuff at Prarie City).
Sac DL showed me all the mistakes made in building my existing DL. It was very interesting how little I knew about identifying where problems were and what they looked like. Also, he showed me how my DL was out of "phase", the most common contributor to vibrations in an otherwise functioning DL. I wont' discuss where it was built, other than to say the Sac DL guy was a great help. My previous experiences with Stockton DL were just as positive. Too bad they are so far away...
I may rebuild my front DL at the end of this summer.
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