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Gold Hills Posse 4×4 Club · Folsom, CA

Need New Front Driveline

  1. Nubby Webmaster K6NUB Joined: February 2018
    #124 Aug 2021, 6:52 AM

    So I have been keeping an eye on my front driveline because I know it has been hitting the exhaust cross pipe and I was just checking from the last run and it looks like the CV on the transfer case has started spraying grease out of it. It looks clean like it happened after the last run, but seems like it is time to replace it before it gets bad and fails on a trail. My rear is a double cardan, 1350, from Drive Line Services of Sacramento and I have been very happy with it. My initial thought is to just go back to them and have them build me another identical one for the front. So my question - Is there any reason I would want to go a different direction?

    The main thing I see is that the rear they built me is not much different in tube diameter than the factory front, so assuming they don't change the tube size will it continue to interfere with the exhaust cross bar? With the double cardan it will push the joint further out from the transfer case which in theory will raise the contact point a bit and maybe it is enough. All thoughts and opinions are welcome!

     

    Jamie & Damaris
  2. Gregulator Member Joined: February 2012
    #224 Aug 2021, 2:22 PM

    I’m sure they can make the front with smaller diameter tube. I would just ask them. I’ve had drivelines done by them and was very happy with their performance.

    I’ve also bought an off the shelf rubicon express front driveline for my JK and had zero problems with it making contact with my cross member on my JK with 3.5” of lift.

    I’m cheap so I might lean towards off the shelf but if the shop is in the ball park, I might go with them.

    https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/rubicon-express-cvo-drive-shaft-re1883-385/_/R-BKTG-RE1883-385

    Um...what?
  3. Guy and Lynda Member Joined: May 2015
    #324 Aug 2021, 11:58 PM

    Jamie, is there a warranty?

  4. Nubby started this Webmaster K6NUB Joined: February 2018
    #425 Aug 2021, 12:24 AM

    Good question on warranties Guy, the big players in the game (Adamas, Reel, Ten Factory, Spicer, RE) range from 1 year to lifetime, but the small print sounds like if there is a scrape on it they might fight it. I really don;t think any of them are going to brek a weld or twist the tube, they will fail on a joint which none of the warranty for more than a year. I am sure if I take a shaft bac to Driveline Services with a broken or twisted tube they will fix it.

    Thanks for the recomendation Greg, I do want to stick with a 1350 for strength and common spare ujoints with my rear, by the time any off the shelf kits are put together with new yoke & flange they are all about the same price.

    I think I will probably go have a conversation with Driveline Services Friday to get a price and then make a decision which way to go.

    Jamie & Damaris
  5. BKGM Jeepers President Joined: June 2003
    #525 Aug 2021, 1:33 AM

    I run aftermarket lines front and rear.  Since the front is high pinion it doesn't require the same angle as the rear (for most people).  Custom building will get you the tubing diameter you want.  I used DL Service of Stockton for 15 years, before moving up to DL Service of Sacramento.  Stockton is more effort, but usually about 15% cheaper.  I am happy with both my lines, and run sealed u joints in my rear CV joint so I don't have to service them.  The easier access joints all have zerks and can be easily greased.  I would suggest you pay for premium sealed joints on the T-case side of the front so you don't have to drop any skid plates every time you grease your lines.  Just my thoughts.

    Kathleen and Brad
  6. Nubby started this Webmaster K6NUB Joined: February 2018
    #625 Aug 2021, 2:08 AM

    Yep, was thinking the exact same thing with the sealed u-joint under the skid 😀

    BKGM Jeepers said I run aftermarket lines front and rear.  Since the front is high pinion it doesn't require the same angle as the rear (for most people).  Custom building will get you the tubing diameter you want.  I used DL Service of Stockton for 15 years, before moving up to DL Service of Sacramento.  Stockton is more effort, but usually about 15% cheaper.  I am happy with both my lines, and run sealed u joints in my rear CV joint so I don't have to service them.  The easier access joints all have zerks and can be easily greased.  I would suggest you pay for premium sealed joints on the T-case side of the front so you don't have to drop any skid plates every time you grease your lines.  Just my thoughts.

    Jamie & Damaris
  7. Guest former user
    #731 Oct 2021, 12:13 PM

    The main thing I see is that the rear they built me is not much different in tube diameter than the factory front

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