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Oil Leak Option
November 25, 2008
3:10 pm
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I put a bunch of miles on the Ford this weekend and by the end, I noticed a pretty substantial oil leak. It looks like the rear main seal. I got an estimate to have it replaced and they want about $1,000. The truck isn't worth that much and I'm not real excited about doing it myself so I figure I'll limp it along. Any suggestions? I've already switched it to straight 30 weight oil. I figure I'll dump one of those silver bullet stop leak things in. Is anyone brand better than another? Anyone want to change a rear main seal on a 460 for a reasonable price? Know anyone that might?

November 25, 2008
3:56 pm
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Dan-H
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are you sure it isn't the valve cover or the rear intake valley seal?

fords are notorious for leaking oil on the top end, then finding their way down the backside of the bell housing.

if it has steel valve covers, then an extra thick soft and squishy gasket can help.

pull the VCs, put them on a table with a flash light underneath and you can see of the cover is warped, of also common is to have the bolt holes dimpled in from overtightening.

you could start with a good cleaning to try to trace the source of the oil.

Closed Mondays.

November 25, 2008
4:14 pm
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JohnDF
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Keane is just looking for an excuse to put the axles under his Toyota. He wants a 4Ruggy 😈

I used to wheel a lot. . .

November 25, 2008
4:17 pm
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"Dan-H" wrote: are you sure it isn't the valve cover or the rear intake valley seal?

Where/what is the rear intake valley seal?

"JohnDF" wrote: Keane is just looking for an excuse to put the axles under his Toyota. He wants a 4Ruggy 😈

The thought crossed my mind, but I need a while longer out of this truck or I paid waaaaaay too much for a front 60. 😀

November 25, 2008
4:47 pm
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JohnDF
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The first thing I thought of wahen I broke my track bar mount was, how can I turn this into an upgrade 😀

But sadly, just replacing the mount, the battery, and possibly the winch rope, this is going to cost enough.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

November 25, 2008
5:46 pm
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BKGM Jeepers
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I think I used Risolone (sp?) in the past to stop oil leaks. It worked ok.

November 25, 2008
7:25 pm
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RobD
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"Bender" wrote: [quote="Dan-H"]are you sure it isn't the valve cover or the rear intake valley seal?

Where/what is the rear intake valley seal?

😀

He is referring to your intake manifold...

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November 25, 2008
7:29 pm
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JohnDF
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Are you guys speaking English???

I used to wheel a lot. . .

November 25, 2008
8:08 pm
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Howdy
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"Bender" wrote: [quote="Dan-H"]are you sure it isn't the valve cover or the rear intake valley seal?

Where/what is the rear intake valley seal?

Its the valley between the heads and the top of the block. If the intake manifold is not sealed right it will leak oil in the corners where the intake manifold, head, and block come together. Most of the gasket kits come with cheap cork gaskets to put in the corners. The will usually slip or blow out causing the oil leak. For those 4 corners I have always tossed those cork gaskets and used a product called the right stuff with great success.

November 25, 2008
8:14 pm
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JohnDF
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"Howdy" wrote: [quote="Bender"][quote="Dan-H"]are you sure it isn't the valve cover or the rear intake valley seal?

Where/what is the rear intake valley seal?

Its the valley between the heads and the top of the block. If the intake manifold is not sealed right it will leak oil in the corners where the intake manifold, head, and block come together. Most of the gasket kits come with cheap cork gaskets to put in the corners. The will usually slip or blow out causing the oil leak. For those 4 corners I have always tossed those cork gaskets and used a product called the right stuff with great success.

Finally, somebody that speaks English. I'm mechanically challenged and need this stuff broken down into simple terms. I like to learn this stuff too.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

November 25, 2008
8:15 pm
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Howdy
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If its the rear main its not hard to change out. Its like a $15-20 dollar seal and all labor. If you have the time all you have to do is pull the trans, use a puller to get the old seal out and tap the new one in. Unless you have the 2 piece style or rope seal. Then you will have to pull the oil pan and the rear bearing cap and slide the new seal in. Its really not hard, you just need the time and place to do it. I can't remember if you have a garage or not. If not just let it leak and check the oil level every now and then. It won't hurt anything, just make an oily mess of your undercarriage.

November 25, 2008
8:41 pm
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BKGM Jeepers
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Keane has 6-12 weeks of paid paternity leave coming up. He'll have plenty of time to get under the truck and fix it! He'll even be paid by his work for the effort.

November 25, 2008
8:46 pm
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"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: Keane has 6-12 weeks of paid paternity leave coming up. He'll have plenty of time to get under the truck and fix it! He'll even be paid by his work for the effort.

😯 Uhhh...I get six days of sick leave. Is that the same thing? 🙄

November 25, 2008
8:50 pm
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"Howdy" wrote: Its the valley between the heads and the top of the block. If the intake manifold is not sealed right it will leak oil in the corners where the intake manifold, head, and block come together. Most of the gasket kits come with cheap cork gaskets to put in the corners. The will usually slip or blow out causing the oil leak. For those 4 corners I have always tossed those cork gaskets and used a product called the right stuff with great success.

8)

I'll check it out! Sounds like it's easier to replace. I don't have a garage so I'm not really interested in dropping the transmission and doing the rear main. That was hard enough on the dirt in the Toyota and I was able to lift the transmission without a jack. I'd let it ride, but it's a bit excessive and it drips on the exhaust which doesn't seem to be the safest thing.

November 25, 2008
10:51 pm
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"Bender" wrote:
I'll check it out! Sounds like it's easier to replace. I don't have a garage so I'm not really interested in dropping the transmission and doing the rear main. That was hard enough on the dirt in the Toyota and I was able to lift the transmission without a jack. I'd let it ride, but it's a bit excessive and it drips on the exhaust which doesn't seem to be the safest thing.

Wow....it sounds like a real leaker then. I can always tell when I haven't driven the 4runner in a while when I smell the oil burning off the manifold. My EB used to leak all over the exhaust also when the rear main was bad. You could hear it dripping on it and sizzling when you stopped. 😀

Its no fun this time of year laying in the drit working on a car. Maybe if your truck is old enough you might have the 2 piece seal and only have to drop the pan. That could be easier than the tranny.

November 26, 2008
1:10 am
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BKGM Jeepers
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"Bender" wrote: [quote="BKGM Jeepers"]Keane has 6-12 weeks of paid paternity leave coming up. He'll have plenty of time to get under the truck and fix it! He'll even be paid by his work for the effort.

😯 Uhhh...I get six days of sick leave. Is that the same thing? 🙄

Sorry Pal. You live in California. Read the law and the required paid time off! I used vacation to make my pay whole and was off for 12 weeks!

November 26, 2008
4:29 pm
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Howdy
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"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: [quote="Bender"][quote="BKGM Jeepers"]Keane has 6-12 weeks of paid paternity leave coming up. He'll have plenty of time to get under the truck and fix it! He'll even be paid by his work for the effort.

😯 Uhhh...I get six days of sick leave. Is that the same thing? 🙄

Sorry Pal. You live in California. Read the law and the required paid time off! I used vacation to make my pay whole and was off for 12 weeks!

Yep....Paid family leave. Your employer can't deny it to you. I was off 6 weeks with our first. I believe I only took a month with our second. Take the time off and enjoy it and you will be glad you did.

November 26, 2008
5:31 pm
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my employer gives me 1 day of new baby leave. then i can take up to 2 weeks of paid sick time. the problem with that is that my familydependant sick and personal sick is taken form the same pool of hours (64hrs per year) which include dr appointments and dentist. my only option is to use my vacation (i have 4 weeks because of how long i'ved worked at the same place (13years) otherwise 2 weeks is the norm here) in order to make up 3 to 4 weeks of paid time off.

November 26, 2008
6:03 pm
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I honestly didn't even realize it was an option. How come they don't tell you that kind of stuff in a child birth classes? That's more important the half the stuff I learned. I have an appointment with HR this afternoon to see what my options are. There may be some problems depending on how our insurance works. This is my favorite thread hijack ever! 8)

November 26, 2008
6:11 pm
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JohnDF
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Ours was in the hospital for the first three months anyways. So, I kept working (drafting) and going to school at night. All the rest of my free time was spent in the hospital. Only went home to sleep.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

November 26, 2008
7:09 pm
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We don't pay into SDI so I'm not eligible for the paid portion. 🙁 In theory I could take 12 unpaid weeks though. Alex, you should look into it. I would assume that you pay into SDI - we have a waiver because we're special district. I doubt you'd get your full salary, but you could mix some time like Brad did. You can take the paid portion up to 12 months after the baby is born.

November 26, 2008
8:37 pm
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"Bender" wrote: We don't pay into SDI so I'm not eligible for the paid portion. 🙁 In theory I could take 12 unpaid weeks though. Alex, you should look into it. I would assume that you pay into SDI - we have a waiver because we're special district. I doubt you'd get your full salary, but you could mix some time like Brad did. You can take the paid portion up to 12 months after the baby is born.

hmmm. intersting.

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