2:15 pm
Club Member
June 4, 2012
I'm thinking on going to a larger tire for my Samurai (yes Brad, I was listening) a 33" or maybe even 35". (most likely will be a 12.50 due to avalibilty in my price range,rather have 10.50 And probity metric) Looking at what's out there, putting brands aside, there are many ways that I can get say a 35" tall tire as far as the rim size. I am going to get a different set of rims so the size 15", 16", 17" is not a issue. I'm wondering if staying with the smaller size rim (15") is a advantage off road as to more sidewall flex for climbing rocks and stuff? Or is it better to have to have a larger size rim for less sidewall flex? So throwing it out there for all your thoughts as to this. Basic topic is, Rim size in relation to tire size How does it effect the wheeling? :dunno:
If I can't build it, then it's something that should be bought.
2:31 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
It used to be a bid deal. Now I just think its personal preference. I know you can dig around for smoke'n deals, but for example the cheapest 35's I know of come in a 17" rim size. They are about.
If you can find some good quality used 35" old style MT/Rs, they often came in the 15" rim size. Maybe you could build a set of those over the winter for about 100 a tire. Don't you want to re-use your rims? I'd thik the would be ok for a 12.50 tire but I never looked at your offset. Going the extra 2" in width often reduces your steering which needs to be made up by going with a greater offset.
I ran 35s on my Sami, but it took a lot of lift and I swapped over to Wagoneer D44s. They gave me plenty of width and a 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
3:55 pm
Club Member
June 4, 2012
The main reason for going to new rims is the cost of the all 33" tires on 15" rims. Treadwright tires have a 33" tire 285/75R16 BACKBONE M/T that is $124.00 + $23.00 shipping each. And I can go to pick & pull and get steel rims for about $8.00 each.
If I can't build it, then it's something that should be bought.
4:24 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
"Specialsoundman" wrote: The main reason for going to new rims is the cost of the all 33" tires on 15" rims. Treadwright tires have a 33" tire 285/75R16 BACKBONE M/T that is $124.00 + $23.00 shipping each. And I can go to pick & pull and get steel rims for about $8.00 each.
16" rims for $8 each? Is your bolt pattern Toyota? Or, Ford 5-bolt?
5:54 pm
September 25, 2011
6:05 pm
Club Member
June 4, 2012
6:08 pm
Club Member
June 4, 2012
"huck271" wrote: I thought the rule of thumb for overall multipurpose use was rim = 1/2 tire size as a guide.
15" rim = 30" tire
17" rim = 35" tire
20" rim = 40" tire
Etc..
Using that formula I need a 15.5" rim....... with my 31" tires
If I can't build it, then it's something that should be bought.
9:01 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
9:02 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
"huck271" wrote: I thought the rule of thumb for overall multipurpose use was rim = 1/2 tire size as a guide.
15" rim = 30" tire
17" rim = 35" tire
20" rim = 40" tire
Etc..
Maybe as a minimum?
I know lots of people who run 40's on a 17" rim (Krawlers, MT/R's, KM/2s). I don't think I've seen much in a 15" or 16" rim lately for off road tires. I think everything is headed towards the 17" and 20" sizes.
11:43 pm
September 25, 2011
"BKGM Jeepers" wrote:
Maybe as a minimum?I know lots of people who run 40's on a 17" rim (Krawlers, MT/R's, KM/2s). I don't think I've seen much in a 15" or 16" rim lately for off road tires. I think everything is headed towards the 17" and 20" sizes.
I haven't seem many 40s on 17s, but I haven't seen every vehicle. Most 40s that I have seen run on 20s, 35s/37s on 17s or 18s. That is not to say there are not exceptions. It also depends on the purpose of use. If you were off road "only" I could see a smaller rim with a larger tire. Just like in a sports car larger rim, smaller tire. But for multipurpose and the best combination of on-road/off-road handling the ratio is 50% rim to tire or there about. I think significantly more rim than 50% and you don't flex a lot on the trail, and significantly less rim than 50% and you lose stability at highway speeds and tend to have more of a floating feeling on the highway.
Huck
2:54 am
I run the newer Mtr's on a 15" x 8" rim. The 17 in 35" size was definately more expensive than the 15 no matter where you look.
Handling on the road is not what my 32x11.5 give me with the same size wheel,but I gained ground clearance under the axle which I was after.
I'll save the 17's for the 37's
9:09 pm
Correct me if I'm wrong, but 15's will be the best off-road, but the worst on road. The larger side walls allow much greater flex, especially when combined with bead locks. All that side wall also makes them much more bouncy on road.
I run 17's for my 37's, like the "rule of thumb" mentioned above; however, that is because I wanted it to ride equally well on or off road. If I wanted 90% on road with the ability to play in sand I would have gotten 22's. If I didn't use as a daily driver I'd go with smaller rims.
So, since you said they were for pure off-road, go with 15" or 15.5". My step-dads Jeep ran 37's on 15's. Crawled like crazy but floated and bounced all over the freeway!
Of course that is just my opinion, and as they say we all have'em. Hope that helps!
2:59 am
I think I'm going to chime in on this. I've had both 15 and 17 inch rims. The 15 had 35s and the 17s had 37s. Both of which handle supurb on the road. Its all in relation to tire pressure, sway bars , center of gravity and suspension configuration. My old 35s handeled like they were on rails. Same with the current 37s. I like the fifteen inch rim. I never blew a bead at eight psi.
7:18 pm
Club Member
June 4, 2012
"Wh1t3Nukle" wrote: Do you want to run snow in that cute little rig? Perhaps you may want to float a bit more.
The sami is being targeted for like 90/10 off/on road ratio right? On road as just driving to/from trail and to the meetings is what comes to mind.
I'm thinking 85/15 off/on. Snow is not my main goal, Its rock / Rubicon type of wheeling is what I like the best. I'm thinking that I'm going wear out my 31's and then plan on going with 35/12.50/15 next spring. I can use the same rims and have the extra sidewall flex that I need with this lighter rig. Might have to do a little fender mods, but I don't think it will be much.
If I can't build it, then it's something that should be bought.
10:46 pm
Club Member
June 4, 2012
To add to this, how about tread? What "style" of tread pattern works best on rocks? I understand there is a trade off as to snow, rocks, mud (don't plan on "Muddin") will the aggressive tread grab the rocks better? But I've seen like super swampers just spin on the rocks and then have a BFG all-terrain go right up same place. With the light weight Suzuki how can I get the best grip, besides spiked tires lol
If I can't build it, then it's something that should be bought.
11:24 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
It's all about the compound, plus a little more with siping.
You're using re-treads currently. Those tires use a harder compound which should provide longer life. If you're going to replace them with complete tires (as opposed to a different re-tread pattern).
Some tires like IROC's seem to do well in the rocks but I've seen them get chewed up on Fordyce because of their soft compound.
Some tires like BFGs have softer sidewalls that allow for flex at higher tire pressure but may tear on rocks easier.
Some tires a good all around, while some are better at certain types of terrain than others.
All good tires are (relatively) expensive, even in the 35" size.
Your sami is very light and low horsepower. I'd try to get a lighter MT tire with a pretty flexible sidewall. If you air down enough you should get traction to scoot your little rig right over stuff!
Notice how I didn't state "MY BRAND IS THE BEST"?
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