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Rim Talk
January 29, 2010
1:15 am
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What do you think about rim options for 37's.
aluminum? Steel?
17x8 size or 16 or 15?
I'm thinking 17x8 but I wanted opinions and I didn't want to muck up the axle thread. 🙂  

Thoughts?

January 29, 2010
1:19 am
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Fred
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17x8 should work well for 37's.

January 29, 2010
1:24 am
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"FAM" wrote: 17x8 should work well for 37's.

Steel? Alum?

January 29, 2010
1:34 am
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Fred
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"lowrider" wrote: Steel? Alum?

I like aluminum. Forged aluminum is best but I've been using cast aluminum wheels. When I was in the market for wheels I read too many stories of people bending their cheap steel wheels and having to replace them. The downside of the cast aluminum wheels is they can crack and I have had one crack on me on Barrett.

January 29, 2010
1:34 am
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JohnDF
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Aluminuminuminum 17" with 37" MT/Rs 8)

I used to wheel a lot. . .

January 29, 2010
3:37 am
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k-jeep
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Black Rock wheels are reasonably priced aluminum wheels. These are their least expensive. I have their Viper series.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Bran ... toview=SKU

January 29, 2010
6:32 am
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Gregulator
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"JohnDF" wrote: Aluminuminuminum 17" with 37" MT/Rs 8)

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Oh Yah!! mr-green

Um...what?

January 29, 2010
4:04 pm
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"kevheb" wrote: Black Rock wheels are reasonably priced aluminum wheels. These are their least expensive. I have their Viper series.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Bran ... toview=SKU

These look pretty nice. Especially the 2 tone ones. Thanks

January 29, 2010
4:14 pm
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So I can't find out how much of a weight difference we r talking about when it comes to steel vs alum. Is it a huge diff? Or should I not even worry about it? I'm thinking alum is lighter but that summit website didn't seem to list weight per wheel on he specs.

January 29, 2010
4:50 pm
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Why worry about the weight? It's all unsprung. Just keeps you on the ground better. 😈

January 29, 2010
4:54 pm
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"Bender" wrote: Why worry about the weight? It's all unsprung. Just keeps you on the ground better. 😈

Well, I still think that maybe the lighter the wheels the easier on my 6 banger that performs like a 4 banger. But u do have a point offseting the weight of my body with heavyier wheels and tires. Not to mention thAt my body has a lift which probably makes me tippy

January 29, 2010
7:28 pm
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JohnDF
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The deciding factor for me was that steel bends and alloy breaks.

The steel rims bend rather easily, but you can sort of bang them back into place.

The alloy rims are hard to break, but if they do break they are useless.

I ran steel wheels for a while but got tired of them not being balanced and leaking air after they got bent.

I then switched to alloy and haven't had a problem since.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

January 31, 2010
4:43 pm
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Justin
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I have to buy a new set of steel wheels every year. I think aluminum might be the way to go. lol

January 31, 2010
4:58 pm
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RobD
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Unless you are worried about looks, I would go with steel to save on the cost. You don't wheel in the rocks all that often, so it isn't likely that you will bend one. I would definitely go with a 17 inch rim because there isn't much of a selection of 37n inch tires in a 15 anymore.

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February 6, 2010
2:56 am
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troyman
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17x9 is what I'm going with, a lot of the 17" tires are in the 13.5" range which makes a 9" wheel a bit more appropriate. My tires are marked as 9.5" as the minimum recommended width. I have a hard time justifying $250 - $300 a wheel that I'm going to beat the snot out of, so I'll probably stick with my steel, bead-locked converted wheels. I figure I'm at about $5-600 into the wheels, they're strong as hell with the beadlock reinforcement and like Bender said, it's unsprung weight. The same setup in a good aluminum rim is going to be somewhere around $1200 - $1600. I'll be running that same 3.0L as you for a while, so I'll probably wish I'd gone with Aluminum wheels on the way to the trail, but my wallet will appreciate the steel wheels. If you're running regular, non-beadlocked wheels - I'd probably stick with a nice Aluminuminuminum wheel though

Out in the garage collecting parts....

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