Yea,you could use some gears and maybe a tranny cooler if you go to 35's. You might want to find out a little more about your trans and converter. Does it have lockup and if so, 3rd and 4th, or just 4th. When I had a 700r4 behind my 4.0 it was easy because i could lock the converter at any time i wanted.I did a lot of fool'in around and testing with my current set up. Even wired in a lite from the converter so i knew for sure when it locked as opposed to when it was supposed to. Even used drive monitor to collect info for gearing choice. My target was 2250 rpm locked (65 ish) up in od going uphill. I still blew it by 150 rpm because I did not add enough weight of the crap I take when I go for an overnighter. Math is just that, it gives you a place to start. I was happy with 4.56's and 33's with the700r4. Just try to find something that you and your trans can live with. You can't always get what you want, like a 5.00 gearset in a dana 44.

If anything all i would do is put in a small LED to let you know when the converter is locked. Mine is very noticeable when it locks on the upshift( feels like another gear), not so much on the downshift. It just helps me adjust my driving when it's 100 plus outside. My cooler is a stand alone, and is stupid big. Even though I rarely see above 155 anywhere in the summertime, I would advise against it. It is much easier to keep fluid in "liveable" range by using the radiator and a Long Tru-Flow cooler. Sounds like 4.56's might work for you. With 33's you may be able to pull all but the steepest hills in OD. With 35's you will find yourself in 3rd gear, that's where Sue is at with no OD. She does well in the hills but is limited on downhills and flats by excess engine rpm.

As far as the front axle goes I don't see a big difference in building a HP D30 and a LP D44 if done on factory housings. The upside to scoring a take out 44 with an ARB is that if or when you bend the housing you could re-use the arb and inners if you went to a HP 44 of the same width. With ours, if we used a cherokee 4 bolt caliper outer C we could re use all of our outer stuff too and have the stronger ford/chevy pre-loadable ball joint design and better angles to flip the tie rod. It won't happen, we need to be an inch wider than we are now on each side. If I had known Sue was going to get bit by the trail bug like she did I would never ever ever ever spend the money on the stock front axle like I did. When I did mine we test fit a solid hp 44 but just didn't have enough room between the rad,exhaust, and had front driveshaft/ tranny clearance issues, it only had 3.5" of lift on 33's and I did not want to go wider or higher. Now that it's higher and wider... I think you get the point. Have been looking/ gathering stuff for 2 hp d44's for a while now, Ill let you know if I find stuff you may want to use. If you by new axles I have became a big fan of the Superior Evo shafts. Killed 3 spicer axle joints this year and they took it in stride. I'm not brave enough for ctm's yet but just replaced with something a little stronger that are serviceable. If you end up with a jeep 44 just be sure the gears are set up WITHOUT the crush sleeve for the pinion preload. Anything with a crush sleeve is a 1 bump and done. It will happen at the worst time.

TJ's are LP. The Argentine Cherokee's had the HP 44's and are hard to come by now. Wish I would have bought 2 front JK 60's when you did.

So Joe, would you still also say the same for the RAM D44 stock housing (my off road edition only came with a bit more flanging afaik in difference to non-offroad rams) should be left alone and go D60 upgrade?

I was thinking when I was closer to a D60 swap that my D44 with ARB would be desirable. Of course, I still don't plan to be has super duper capable like Path 88. Wouldn't mind being able to tackle Rubicon as the highest mark for myself.