5:18 pm
January 27, 2011
Offline
File this in the "I should have known this earlier than now" category. :banghead:
Was under the XJ yesterday doing some measuring before cutting fenders. Measured the tire to fender clearance (7-1/2") then current bump-stop to frame (8") and it appears I need only cut about 1/2" off around the fender opening to totally clear my 33" tires. For you non-XJ types, this means I can clear the tires without messing with the pinch seam welds in the fender wells on the unibody. WOOT
What I also discovered is my present shocks only allow for 3" of up-travel 
which I'll certainly need to address. Once I get the current modifications done ... spring re-locator, 1-1/2" shackle, greasable bolts and new brake lines and E-brake cables ... I'll test for droop and see what my operating parameters are. I was more than a bit surprised. 
Oh, and I'll be doing the same thing to the front after I level the rig after finishing the rear. As much as I stuffed the front tire up on Strawberry, there does not appear to be an issue with up-travel at least. 
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If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading -- Lao Tzu
8:50 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline You are factoring the travel at the end of the housing is different than where the shock is, correct? I know I won't be good at explaining it, but a shorter traveling shock does not nessessarily limit the wheel mount travel movement. It's all about pivot points.
Um...what?
4:04 am
January 27, 2011
Offline "finder_87" wrote: You are factoring the travel at the end of the housing is different than where the shock is, correct? I know I won't be good at explaining it, but a shorter traveling shock does not nessessarily limit the wheel mount travel movement. It's all about pivot points.
From where the shock is while on flat ground to the end of the plunger is ~3".
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If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading -- Lao Tzu
4:17 am
"TomD" wrote: [quote="finder_87"]You are factoring the travel at the end of the housing is different than where the shock is, correct? I know I won't be good at explaining it, but a shorter traveling shock does not nessessarily limit the wheel mount travel movement. It's all about pivot points.
From where the shock is while on flat ground to the end of the plunger is ~3".
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I think he's saying that since the wheel is farther away from the pivot point it travels farther than the 3 inches you're seeing on the shock. Wasn't the damage on your fender caused by the wheels rubbing it? You're cutting some, but you may not want the body to limit your uptravel. 😀 Maybe I'm confused though, I'm more of a visual person.
6:26 am
Stuff the tire and see where it hits. You don't want your shock bottoming out before hitting your bumpstops.
5:52 pm
"lj4x4" wrote: Stuff the tire and see where it hits. You don't want your shock bottoming out before hitting your bumpstops.
In a perfect world.
7:12 pm
January 27, 2011
Offline "Bender" wrote: [quote="TomD"][quote="finder_87"]You are factoring the travel at the end of the housing is different than where the shock is, correct? I know I won't be good at explaining it, but a shorter traveling shock does not nessessarily limit the wheel mount travel movement. It's all about pivot points.
From where the shock is while on flat ground to the end of the plunger is ~3".
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I think he's saying that since the wheel is farther away from the pivot point it travels farther than the 3 inches you're seeing on the shock. Wasn't the damage on your fender caused by the wheels rubbing it? You're cutting some, but you may not want the body to limit your uptravel. 😀 Maybe I'm confused though, I'm more of a visual person.
Yeah, the front tires stuffed enough to get into the fender flares and the back of the passenger front fender (probably while turning).
After getting back into town, I removed the flares (which into the wheel opening about 1-1/4" below the sheet metal) then cut along the top of where the fender flares USED to mount (removing about 3" sheet metal) giving me about 4" more room ALL the way around. Should have no further sheet metal work on the front for a bit. :hack:
I had noticed in a couple of vids taken the rear didn't stuff as well as the front ... now I know why. The rear shocks themselves were limiting up travel. :censor:
So, after the rear suspension work (re-locators and 1-1/2" shackles), equalizing the front (rear lift should net about 1" to 1-1/2") then replacing all brake lines and both e-brake cables, we'll finally see what I'm working with at both extremes (stuffing and droop) so bump stop/droop strap can be determined. 
If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading -- Lao Tzu
12:20 am
With coil springs the best luck i've had is to remove the springs' drop it to the bump stops or watch to see what hits first. Adjust bumps or fix what hits. Put shocks back on and drop it again to be sure they don't bottom. Then jack it up to full droop and see what limits downtravel. Most use shocks to limit droop. Check the top of the track bar at the axle end( you may see a mark where it hits the bottom of the upper bracket), the tre at the pitman arm( I disconnect it and see if it can be reconnected with out lifting the axle ), the front driveshaft( rotate it slowly to feel any bind across the closed end of the cv ) No belly pan to worry about like on a tj. With rear leafsprings get a spotter or driver and look for something to flex it on.
2:02 am
January 27, 2011
Offline "jsmorrow" wrote: With coil springs the best luck i've had is to remove the springs' drop it to the bump stops or watch to see what hits first. Adjust bumps or fix what hits. Put shocks back on and drop it again to be sure they don't bottom. Then jack it up to full droop and see what limits downtravel. Most use shocks to limit droop. Check the top of the track bar at the axle end( you may see a mark where it hits the bottom of the upper bracket), the tre at the pitman arm( I disconnect it and see if it can be reconnected with out lifting the axle ), the front driveshaft( rotate it slowly to feel any bind across the closed end of the cv ) No belly pan to worry about like on a tj. With rear leafsprings get a spotter or driver and look for something to flex it on.
That is great stuff!! I've already copy/pasted that into my "how to do" cheat sheet. Thanks!! 
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If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading -- Lao Tzu
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