Last weekend I experienced some brake smoke and damned near no brakes while pulling my trailer down the hill from Barrett. So I'm looking for more mods on my braking system. I would like some imput on this.
Was this out of the ordinary or do you typically feel like the brakes are underpowered?
It sounds like you basically overheated your brakes going down the hill. Rear discs will help a little if you don't already have them. Outside of that, the only true improvement is larger/heavier rotors and calipers. Only 3 options I know of are (1) doing a WJ knuckle swap which requires new ball joints, custom steering and track bar linkage, and usually 16"+ wheels in addition to a junkyard run, (2) REID outer knuckles with 5x5.5" CJ outers, OR (3) supporting the VANCO guys. I helped do a WJ knuckle swap on my college roomate's jeep. Not too hard and gets you free high steer but parts can add up. Option 2 gets you true half ton truck brakes with more mass in the rotor and caliper to absorb heat. Option 1 and 3 get you larger diameter rotors which reduce the heat loading on the brakes in the first place.
Most of the guys that ran automatic transmissions on a TJ had to go to hydroboost brakes for more braking power with larger tires.
JohnDF said Most of the guys that ran automatic transmissions on a TJ had to go to hydroboost brakes for more braking power with larger tires.
I think people used a ZJ system as well...
BKGM Jeepers said I t hink people used a ZJ system as well...
What is hydro assist brakes and what about slotted rotors and different brake pads like porsaline.
Darrell and Jill saidWhat is hydro boost brakes and what about slotted rotors and different brake pads like porsaline.
kris_olof said Was this out of the ordinary or do you typically feel like the brakes are underpowered? It sounds like you basically overheated your brakes going down the hill. Rear discs will help a little if you don't already have them. Outside of that, the only true improvement is larger/heavier rotors and calipers. Only 3 options I know of are (1) doing a WJ knuckle swap which requires new ball joints, custom steering and track bar linkage, and usually 16"+ wheels in addition to a junkyard run, (2) REID outer knuckles with 5x5.5" CJ outers, OR (3) supporting the VANCO guys. I helped do a WJ knuckle swap on my college roomate's jeep. Not too hard and gets you free high steer but parts can add up. Option 2 gets you true half ton truck brakes with more mass in the rotor and caliper to absorb heat. Option 1 and 3 get you larger diameter rotors which reduce the heat loading on the brakes in the first place.
No they are typically underpowered more so when I'm pulling my trailer.
I ran the hydroboost set-up from Vanco for a while on my TJ. It worked but still required a heavy foot on the brake pedal. I ended up replacing it with Mr Blaine's Black Magic brake conversion with larger diameter rotors and dual piston calipers.
JohnDF said Most of the guys that ran automatic transmissions on a TJ had to go to hydroboost brakes for more braking power with larger tires.
Hydroboost is a brake booster that is powered by your power steering pump rather than by engine vacuum. While this does increase the brake line pressure and stopping power it doesn't increase braking capacity. Also they are pricey if you include properly sized master cylinder and higher flow power steering pump.
As to the drilled and slotted rotors, waste of money. You dont drive a race car so nowhere near the airflow necessary to cool the brakes. And the slots/holes have a habit of picking up small stones and filling with mud.
What is your budget?
~$60 + $20 to get your rotors turned- Cheapest option is to try a better set of pads with a higher friction. Semi-metallic have higher friction but make more dust than ceramic. Ive had good luck with Napa Premium Semi-Metallic and Duralast MAX Towing pads on my LJ.
~$140 + $20 to get your rotors turned- Next option is a premium pad EBC Yellow Stuff or Black Magic. I ran the EBC for one set and did notice an improvement over the Napa/Autozone pads but with the manual I couldn't justify the extra cost. I have been told that the EBC and Black Magic are comparable.
~$500 to ~$1000 - WJ knuckle swap can be done with junkyard and/or all new replacement parts but requires welding, new lower ball joints, 17" rims, and custom steering/track bar. This gets you larger rotors and larger twin-piston calipers plus a high steer arm for true crossover steering. This is the DIY option.
~$1000 - ~$1500 - The Vanco big brake kits are essentially TJ knuckles modified to use WJ calipers and a few different rotors. 100% bolt on but you pay for the convenience and doesn't give you the high steer arm of the WJ knuckle. Benefit is the option to run 15", 16" or 17" wheels.
kris_olof said Hydroboost is a brake booster that is powered by your power steering pump rather than by engine vacuum. While this does increase the brake line pressure and stopping power it doesn't increase braking capacity. Also they are pricey if you include properly sized master cylinder and higher flow power steering pump. As to the drilled and slotted rotors, waste of money. You dont drive a race car so nowhere near the airflow necessary to cool the brakes. And the slots/holes have a habit of picking up small stones and filling with mud. What is your budget? ~$60 + $20 to get your rotors turned- Cheapest option is to try a better set of pads with a higher friction. Semi-metallic have higher friction but make more dust than ceramic. Ive had good luck with Napa Premium Semi-Metallic and Duralast MAX Towing pads on my LJ. ~$140 + $20 to get your rotors turned- Next option is a premium pad EBC Yellow Stuff or Black Magic. I ran the EBC for one set and did notice an improvement over the Napa/Autozone pads but with the manual I couldn't justify the extra cost. I have been told that the EBC and Black Magic are comparable. ~$500 to ~$1000 - WJ knuckle swap can be done with junkyard and/or all new replacement parts but requires welding, new lower ball joints, 17" rims, and custom steering/track bar. This gets you larger rotors and larger twin-piston calipers plus a high steer arm for true crossover steering. This is the DIY option. ~$1000 - ~$1500 - The Vanco big brake kits are essentially TJ knuckles modified to use WJ calipers and a few different rotors. 100% bolt on but you pay for the convenience and doesn't give you the high steer arm of the WJ knuckle. Benefit is the option to run 15", 16" or 17" wheels.
Now that's info I can use thank you so much. I have a few options I can mull over.👍
I would recommend against the yellow stuff pads (though I run ebc and think ebc itself is fantastic) the yellow pads work very poorly till heated up and unless you buy quality rotors to match and keep them hot you will never get full capability out of them.
Unless you are going $5k plus on these brakes I would recommend a good rotor and a set of napa/autozone/oreliys metallic pads, esp with the towing you do.
Just my thoughts and experience
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