6:52 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
Offline
Awesome!
8:16 pm
December 13, 2015
Offline glad to hear Rich!
[¯¯],[¯¯¯¯],
l---L--OllllllO¬
():) ():)-----():)
Its a Gee(p) thing
11:16 am
July 12, 2017
Offline Nice!
I was kinda looking forward to a lifted subaru though....
11:24 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline A lifted Subaru would be SWEET!
I used to wheel a lot. . .
8:10 pm
July 14, 2016
Offline JohnDF said
A lifted Subaru would be SWEET!
Check out Craigslist there's a straight axled Subaru actually looks kinda cool
10:17 pm
July 12, 2017
Offline Mike G said
Check out Craigslist there's a straight axled Subaru actually looks kinda cool
haha that's awesome... did you see the episode of dirt every day where there made a 2wd , front wheel drive, rav4 into a 4x4? it was awesome
7:21 pm
July 14, 2016
Offline Tyler - K6TLR said
haha that's awesome... did you see the episode of dirt every day where there made a 2wd , front wheel drive, rav4 into a 4x4? it was awesome
Haven't caught that one yet...
7:57 pm
April 9, 2015
Offline I'm considering selling my truck. I'm having an issue with my ABS computer, and am a little tired of dealing with computer related problems. I am thinking about getting a pre-smog (1974 or 1975) Ford F-150 or F-250 supercab shortbed 4x4. The F-150 has coil spring front suspension and the F-250 is leaf spring front. I'm looking for advice and opinions about which truck would be the better choice for daily driving, occasional trailer towing, and also be a capable wheeler. Any thoughts?
7:51 am
Club Member
January 19, 2011
Offline The F250 will take more abuse. It’s built to work. Front solid axle is better for wheeling. Also it will pull a loaded trailer allot smoother. Do get the short bed if you plan to Wheel like Jeff B.
Semper Fi
1:14 pm
Club Member
February 26, 2014
Offline 
The 250 has simpler suspension and easier to work on more options on axles. The downside a harder ride on road. But like Josh said it will last longer, work harder and pull a trailer better.
3:20 pm
Club Member
January 19, 2011
Offline Gilbert & Betty said
The 250 has simpler suspension
And stronger if your going to use it to wheel or work hard.
Semper Fi
6:37 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline I hate all the computers in these newer vehicles. I've always liked the f150s I have seen modified. But I would want to put a 60 under it and not have the TTB. Leafs springs are really easy to work with and having a solid front dana 44 or 60 would be a great feature. Although I've always had hopes deep in my heart that you would straight axle your current truck...
Um...what?
7:43 pm
April 9, 2015
Offline Gregulator said
I hate all the computers in these newer vehicles. I've always liked the f150s I have seen modified. But I would want to put a 60 under it and not have the TTB. Leafs springs are really easy to work with and having a solid front dana 44 or 60 would be a great feature. Although I've always had hopes deep in my heart that you would straight axle your current truck...
The '74/'75 F-150 had coil front springs and the F-250 had leaf front springs.
The 75 F-250 had either a Dana 44 or a Dana 60. I believe the TTB suspension started in 1980. I like my truck and it drives really nice. I also like the improvements I have made to it. However, I have always liked the earlier trucks. I am also tired of the stupid politicians in this state telling me I can't legally modify certain parts of my truck. I hate the computer controls and integration that make it difficult to modify many things and make repairs expensive. I could fix anything on the '75 without needing to take it to the dealer (or other capable shop). Not to mention it is smog exempt. I would probably add a throttle body fuel injection system.
If I do this, I AM straight axleing my truck...the straight axle just happens to come with a different truck.
7:58 pm
Club Member
July 14, 2016
Offline I know we have said this many times before Rich but you really need a daily driver and a rig for off roading. Keep your truck and pick up a 74/74 F150 (or something else for that matter: a Jeep?!) for wheeling and build it up over time. Modern vehicles are far more comfortable to drive plus you have air bags and many other safety features that the older vehicles don't have. Plus if you break on a trail you still have your DD to get you to work. Just my 2 cents worth.
8:55 pm
April 9, 2015
Offline Jeff_R said
I know we have said this many times before Rich but you really need a daily driver and a rig for off roading. Keep your truck and pick up a 74/74 F150 (or something else for that matter: a Jeep?!) for wheeling and build it up over time. Modern vehicles are far more comfortable to drive plus you have air bags and many other safety features that the older vehicles don't have. Plus if you break on a trail you still have your DD to get you to work. Just my 2 cents worth.
My daily driver is really my motorcycle. The truck is my secondary vehicle, but it is my only 4 wheeled vehicle. I would love to have a dedicated wheeling rig but Terri said that is not going to happen. Believe me, I tried all the angles to support my cause but she would not budge. So, my truck (whichever truck it is) would have to serve daily driver, tow rig and wheeler duty. Terri did say she thinks the older trucks look nicer than my current truck. She is ok with selling mine and getting an older one.
5:54 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
Offline As long as by "tow rig" you mean motorcycle trailer or maybe a small car on a tow dolly, then do it. Your 2010 f150 can out tow 70s trucks both practically and legally by probably double (figure ~3k tow rating on the f100/150 and 4-5k on the f250 of that era vs the 9.2k of the 2010 f150). Practically because brakes are much bigger and legally because insurance doesn't have to cover an accident where the truck is overloaded.
I would personally lean towards the f100/150 non-FE truck for the ease of using some off the shelf parts such as long travel suspension parts from James Duff. They have long travel front radius arms and sell bracket kits for putting a dana 60 up front. Out back, fabbing rear leaf suspension is a breeze and can provide decent ride with plenty of flex (chevy 63s) but the rear 4-link kits for the classic bronco should be super easy to adapt due to frame similarities. Box the frame, swap in a more modern engine with fuel injection, rebuilt the T-18, add a 205, sell off the 44 and 9in for a set of tons, weld on the james duff axle brackets and run it.
The f250 frame would be marginally stronger and cheaper to start lifting however, any mid 70s truck you start with will have had more than 40 years of people beating on it so unless you start with a rust free low mile truck, step one will be stripping down to the frame to weld cracks and either boxing or fishplating the frame. Also you will be fabbing literally everything for the f250 frame from scratch unless you are wanting to keep leaf springs on the front of your rig. (also the 75 f250 axles are good for 35s at best)
Other considerations:
-45years for previous owners to wrench and swap parts you dont know about
-big block FE Engines are underpowered. AC was an option but not very common. The f100 and f150 were both offered in 75 to address emissions limits that were based on weight and the last year of the FE.
-45 year old wiring
-Front drum brakes on all 74-75s, should be able to swap with with chevy/scout or later ford parts for discs on the f100/150 44.
-f250 front axle will be closed knuckle 44 which is useless and optional rear 60 is only 30 spline.
-Crap shoot as to what transfer case you get. Could be Dana 21, Dana 24, NP203, or NP205 married or divorced. NP205 married is preferred but a 203 can be swapped for a married 205. Again last year of an engine plus mid-cycle refresh in 76 so they phased out parts over the period.
-Transmissions are all but un-usable for daily driving (though the T18 and NP435 are great granny 4 speed units for wheeling)
-Cheap short beds are largely long gone due to 30 years of teenagers being able to afford and beat them
-Super cabs are likewise super rare
11:09 am
Club Member
April 10, 2015
Offline I don't know much about Fords, but 1997 and older diesels are smog-exempt . . . worth a look!
8:32 pm
April 9, 2015
Offline kris_olof said
As long as by "tow rig" you mean motorcycle trailer or maybe a small car on a tow dolly, then do it.-Super cabs are likewise super rare
My trailers are about 3,000 to 3,500 pounds. Either truck should be rated enough.
The reason Super Cabs seem rare is people hoard them as well as the Crew Cabs. A friend of my co-worker rebuilds and sells Super and Crew Cabs for a living. I saw a picture of one wall of his shop where he has about 15 Crew Cabs lined up waiting to be rebuilt and that is only part of his stockpile. The trick is finding someone who has one they are willing to sell.
8:33 pm
April 9, 2015
Offline buckallred said
I don't know much about Fords, but 1997 and older diesels are smog-exempt . . . worth a look!
I thought about it but I'm not really interested in a diesel.
8:54 pm
July 14, 2016
Offline buckallred said
I don't know much about Fords, but 1997 and older diesels are smog-exempt . . . worth a look!
Or any diesels that have a GVW over 10,001lbs. Go ahead and get a 2 1/2 ton or 5 ton... we know you like to be different
8:58 pm
April 9, 2015
Offline My idea is:
1) 1975 F-150 SuperCab Short Bed 4x4. Rear Dana 60 from F-350. Stock Dana 44 front with Dana 60 outers and stronger axle shafts (or use a complete F-350 Dana 60 front). NP205 with NP203 doubler. I'm not a big fan of the FE engines. I prefer the 429/460. I'd have to do some research on transmissions. I prefer an automatic (my knee does not like working the clutch on a daily driver). If an AOD can be built to live behind a C6, then I would do that. I'd probably go with 37" or 38" tires, not sure about gear ratios. That might require a 4" lift. The long arm radius arm kit Kris mentioned seems like a good idea.
2) 1975 F-250 built the same but might keep original axle assemblies, or upgrade to the Dana 60's.
3) 1975 F-350 built the same. Since the F-350 SuperCab was only offered in a long bed, I would need to shorten the frame to accept a short bed.
I would probably box the frame on any build. I would also upgrade to integral power steering instead of the lame control valve with ram steering. A power disc brake conversion would also be necessary.
5:50 am
Club Member
July 14, 2016
Offline Here's a 77: https://goldcountry.craigslist.....43636.html
2:29 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
Offline Here would be a good drive train donor for your 460 based plans. I know it is a manual and you want auto but this would be a good starting point for at least the axles and 460 with EFI: https://goldcountry.craigslist.....624.html Or if you find a rig with a divorced NP205: https://yubasutter.craigslist......08788.html
I like option #1. Dont bother putting 60 outers on a 44 when you can get a 60 for less than the labor for doing the outer swap. The 460 would be great in every respect except for weight, the ability to twist apart every other piece of the drivetrain, and the single digit fuel economy.
12:10 pm
April 9, 2015
Offline The pinion and carrier bearings are shot in my rear diff again. My options are: 1-rebuild this axle with a locker and all new bearings (maybe new gears if needed), 2- Install a 2008 or later F250 Super Duty axle with factory e-locker.
Any thoughts?
1:48 pm
Club Member
August 17, 2014
Offline richfroh said
The pinion and carrier bearings are shot in my rear diff again. My options are: 1-rebuild this axle with a locker and all new bearings (maybe new gears if needed), 2- Install a 2008 or later F250 Super Duty axle with factory e-locker.Any thoughts?
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