3:21 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
"Wh1t3Nukle" wrote: Alot of work you pulled off there Huck! That floor looks a little too clean.
Brake lines come in a kit or they just Napa?
Are the driveshafts needing any modifying from this swap/lift?
Since it's a 2-door you will need a CV driveline for the rear with 4" of lift. The front is lilkely too short as well.
Did you try to drive it with just the fronts installed?
3:29 pm
September 25, 2011
5:27 am
April 23, 2012
5:38 am
September 25, 2011
Daily Update.. I didn't get as much done today as I was hoping. I did make it to the dealership and picked up a new actuator plug for the diff, and ABS cable to replace the one I broke and some new bolts. I also called EVO to make sure there wasn't anything I was missing since there were some extra parts and the instructions were not that good. Here is what I found out.
There were two spacer looking things and they went on the bottom of the coilover and new spring perch that was wider than the old one. So I put them on tonight. There was another spacer that went on the flip bracket but we had already used Grade 8 washers to fill the gap so no issue there. There was a "collar" looking thing and that was for the nuckle where the new on top steering goes. The knuckle needed to be drilled out to 7/8" to revers the taper and the collar put in the hole and the steering ball joint in the collar. Lastly I needed to make sure all the bolts up front were tight. I found a few that were not. All are good now.
I have one thing left to do before a test drive. Bleed the brakes. I've never done this before so I am going to do some research on line tongiht and take a stab at it tomorrow. Almost there... 🙂
Huck
2:35 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
Brake bleeding = piece of cake with two people.
All you need is one person to sit in the driver seat, a small container and a wrench that fits the bleeder nut (something like 9mm or 3/8").
Pot the hood and put it back against the windshield, pull the top of the master cylindar and make sure it's full.
Go under the jeep and work from furthest away from the master cylindar inward (driver front would be last for example).
Hold the container up to the bleeder fitting and undo the nut about 1/4 turn (1/2 turn max). Yell "down". The driver pushes all the way down. When he hits bottom, have him say "down" - KEEP his footholding the peddle all the way down. You tighten the nut and say "up". The driver releases the brake peddle and says "up". Repeat until all you see coming out is fluid (no air). Remember to check your brake fluid level at the reservior about every 10 pumps or so. Then you are done with that caliper. 4 total until they are all bled. I believe JK's have a dual manifold master cylindar so the fronts will have half the reservior and the backs half. That way you won't need to re-bleed when you do the rear axle.
You won't have any problems with this task.
6:43 am
September 25, 2011
7:38 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
6:00 am
September 25, 2011
Probably not as many pics as I would like. Today I got a good bit done although it doesn't feel like it.
I completely removed the rear axle from the Jeep. I also removed the muffler to make room for the other D44 i'm putting under the Jeep. It doesn't feel amazing but tomorrow I can start to install the new bracketry and the rock star skids. I am installing a charcoal canister relocation kit first since everything is removed it should be pretty easy to install.
I also removed the rear drive shaft and my new front and rear drive shafts showed up today so they will go in tomorrow as soon as I get the axle put back in.
I'm also amasing a ton of parts. Time for a swap meet or if anyone is looking for some spares.
Huck
The rear axle removed
Pile of Parts in the Garage.
3:14 pm
Club Member
January 19, 2011
8:38 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
1:59 am
September 25, 2011
The muffler had to be removed to install the rear coilovers. I was planning on putting it back in. I guess since I have it out, now would be a good time to do a swap. I'll look and see what the options for doing that and how much they run. It has a K&N air intake so improved exhaust might give it a couple of HP and a better sound.
I did want to mention that in taking the front end apart and the rear end apart, both were missing a bolt a two. On the front one of the sway bar links did not have a nut on it. In the back the track bar bolt didn't have a nut on it. So for those that read this, just know its a good idea every now and then to check for loose or missing bolts. I upgraded a lot of the bolts in the front to Grade 8 and I will probably do the same in the rear as we are putting it back together.
I also noticed today that in the front the axle is about an inch to two off center so I will be adjusting the track bar (it has an adjustable one) to pull the axle back toward the driver side about 3/4". I also measured the distance from tire to fender in the front on both sides and there is about an .5 to 1 inch difference so I will also be adjusting the coilovers in the front to make it level.
Getting ready to go to Homecoming game and camping tomorrow so not much going on till Sunday afternoon or Monday.
Huck
4:36 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
6:52 am
September 25, 2011
My goal is to finish the install this week (by Sunday). I can't work on it tomorrow. I will try to work on it a little each day on Wed, Thurs, & most of the day Friday. I would like to have it done by Friday night or if it spills into the weekend it doesn't take the whole weekend. Of couse that is what I want we will see what happens.
Here is what is left:
Evap Canister Relocation Installation
Service Diff Fluid, Paint Axle, Paint Diff Cover
Install rear lift kit (Upgrade swaybar bolts)
Install drive shafts
Wire Lockers (this could wait as it won't prevent driving the Jeep)
Huck
2:30 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
8:16 am
September 25, 2011
2:25 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
6:36 am
September 25, 2011
Lots done today I'm making progress. I lifted the body off the frame in the rear to install the reenforcement brackets for the coilover. It was easier said then done. Next i had to cut rear axle lower control arm brackets to make room for the rock star skids that come in the kit. I also had to trim the factory trackbar bracket to make room for the new trackbar bracket. The challenge here was that the previous owner of the axle had a Teraflex bracket that had to be cut out as well. It was welded in about 10 spots. Lastly I had to shave the brackets to remove the old swaybar mount and old shock bracket. This took a ton of grinding to get right. Lastly I cleaned up the axle a bit and layed down a coat or primer.
Tomorrow i should be able to start installing the coils, paint the axle and start reinstalling everything.
Huck
6:40 am
September 25, 2011
4:52 pm
September 25, 2011
Got a good bit done yesterday. Lot of "watching the paint dry". I coated the axle twice with a gloss black. Installed the rock star skids, and trackbar bracket. Installed a new locker actuator plug and put it under the Jeep. Lower control arms are in, uppers still have to be adjusted for the right pinion angle before they can be installed. Today I am hoping to hang the coilovers, run the new brake lines, put the new drive lines in and possible set it down under its own weight.
If anyone wants to help today i'll probably be in the garage all day.
Huck
832-425-9696
4:55 pm
September 25, 2011
8:01 pm
September 25, 2011
Huge shout out to Carl!!! Carl came by and helped for a couple of hours yesterday and we pretty much gotter done! That's the good news.
We installed the rear driveline, brakes, rear axle, rear coilovers, and I was able to put it in drive and back it up to maek sure all was working.
The bad news is i have a crazy rake going. I have 8" between tire and fender in the front and 12" in the rear. I emailed EVO to see what they thought they had me check the coils. Apparently originally the setup was 200/250 all the way around and people had bad rake like I do. The new kits have 250/250 in the front and 200/200 in the rear. That is what I should have gotten, but with my luck I got 200/250 all the way around. The extra weight in the front and lack of it in the rear is causing the problem. The solution is to take the coils off and swap them around. A 200 from the front to the rear and the 250 from the rear to the front. Carl can attest to this. Installing the coilovers was the hardest part of the entire install. Now I discover I have to take the all off and apart to fix it. Not happy but I am hoping with only removing the bottom bolt It will go back in relitevely easy. We'll see.
The other problem I have encountered is the front drive line is too long. I have moved the front axle all around and get the drive line to be short enough to fit. In the rear I see splines but in the front fully compressed and still need an inch to get it to fit. Probably going to have order a new one I guess and swap this out.
Huck
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