4:11 am
Club Member
January 20, 2009
I'm doing some early research to try and determine which direction to go with my front and rear axles. It may take a while but I want to do it right the first time. I've seen a lot of different opinions on the other boards but wanted to hear the opinions of those in the club.
Here is my current configuration running 33" tires and 4.10 gears:
Front: HP Dana 30 (with disconnect) and ARB
Rear: Dana 35, 30 spline axles, and ARB
Future plans are for 35" tires and the capability to run rated 10 trails (Fordyce, Rubicon, etc.) with low risk of breakage. Also want to be as street friendly as possible to get to and from any trail far or near.
I like the ARBs so I'll get those in front and rear and I plan on going with 4.88 gears.
Front options:
1. Build up HP D30
2. Replace with Dana 44
3. Other?
Rear options:
1. Replace with Dana 44 (35 spline? Alloy USA makes a 35 spline for D44.)
2. Replace with Dana 60
3. Other?
I also saw one post where the guy put new JK Dana 44s front and rear in his YJ. He cut off all of the JK brackets and welded on spring perches and shock mounts.
I'm not a fabricator so I won't be doing any welding/fabrication myself.
The goal is to do it right the first time, not go too crazy, and at the best price possible.
What are your opinions on the best options and which companies would you recommend? (Currie, Dynatrac, Extreme Gear, WFO, Mopar, Other)
Thanks. 😀
4:55 am
"JohnDF" wrote: Don't even mess around...HP D60s front and rear and you'll be set for whatever you want to do now and in the future.
I have a HP44 on the front and wish I had a 60. I break hubs all the time, I bent my "C", and I wish I had went bigger.
The hammers will do that!
In my humble opinion, If you want to do it right the first time you should go with 37 inch tires. I am running 35 inch tires (33.5 inches dia.) and I am constantly finding my self in a hole made by a 37 inch or larger tire. I have bent or scratched my whole undercarriage including my oil pan. The extra clearance and foot print will help when you are trying to keep up with Brad.
I've seen you drive (fearless). With this in mind I agree with John. You should go with HP 60's. You will eventually go there so why not save your self the extra money.
5:42 am
I'd agree on the 60 thing. Do it right and do it once. Personally I'd even go stock 60 over built 44 and add when you can.
Look for Rob's thread for his front build.
Here's some cost info, it's a bit dated, and the thread falls apart toward the end, but there's some good info. http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/s.....p?t=115059
The rear 60 I had in the Cruiser was built by River City Differentials. Sean did a good job, but it took a while. I put together all the brake lines and the mounts. If you're looking to keep it cheaper, get your own housing from a junk yard and do what you can. I sandblasted and painted mine and when all was said an done it looked (and was) as good as anything else you would buy out there, but, I had plenty of hours and blood, sweat, and tears into it.
Having leaf springs will save you a few bucks on this one. 8)
5:02 pm
July 15, 2005
Go 8 lug and find yourself a pair of 78/9 Dana 60's. Or got to WFO and have them build you a couple stock 60 set ups until you can afford the alloy axles and stuff. Everyone here who has been doing this for awhile can tell you; step up to the biggest axle right off the start so you don’t end up building multiple axles until you ultimately get to the 60 anyway. On the front of my Jeep I spent a ton of money on building a Dana 30, then a Dana 44, then I did it right and built a 60. In the rear I did the same thing to my Dana 35, then built a 44, then a 60..If I would have just bought and built 60's right out of the gate, I would have been in to them for about 7K. Instead I built 6 different axles at a cost of well over 20K 😀 Listen to all the advice you are getting here! They know what they are talking about and we are trying to save you money in the long run!!
Dana 60’s are not just for big tires. They are strong and give you a sense of security on the trail. Yes, you will loose a little ground clearance but that just means you need to pick your lines a little better. Picking better lines or stacking a few extra rocks beats the heck out of changing broken hubs, broken axles, or a ring/pinion gear on the trail..
The reason I said 8 lug is due to the fact that converting a 60 to 5 on 5.5 will add about 2K to the total price of the front and rear..It is cheaper to buy new rims for the 8 lug!!!
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
6:03 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
4WD hardware is currently selling a built HP 60, with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and Alloy USA axles and an ARB, with your choice of gear ratio for 2800. I've had a coupon for another 10% off, and the shipping is free to the Sacramento store (you'd need to pick it up from there). There is no reason to buy anything else for the rear.
The front is a matter of opinion. I am very glad I went from a 30 to a 60. But back when I had mine built it was very expensive and I bet Rob save $2K or more on my cost. You can currently get a 60 (like above) for the front for under $3K, BUT it doesn't use true 60 outers and hubs. John can attest that this is important.
My question would be what's the cost of buying the $2800 front and taking it to a shop to put the outers and proper steering on? You could still run the innter shafts. I am guessing it would be in the $1500 range? I don't recall what Rob spent, but about $4K for a front may be ok. Mine was over $6K total.
6:07 pm
isn't having 8 lugs better than having 6 or 5 anyway? why would anyone go down from 8 to 5 or 6 just for fitting rims? i would think that having more lugs the better. would converting to 6 or 5 from 8 make the connection to your wheels weaker? better chance of breaking bolts maybe? i would assume that they put 8 lugs on that axle for a reason and not just for looks? :dunno:
6:15 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
The only thing I'd say about 5 vs 8 is the availability of spares. Our club runs 5x4.5, 5x5.5, 6, and 8 lug wheels. This means who you run with most often could be beneficial if you require an additonal spare (or a spare at all if you didn't bring one).
I changed my trailer to match my jeep, so I actually carry two spares when towing my trailer.
6:41 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
7:30 pm
"BKGM Jeepers" wrote: The only thing I'd say about 5 vs 8 is the availability of spares. Our club runs 5x4.5, 5x5.5, 6, and 8 lug wheels. This means who you run with most often could be beneficial if you require an additonal spare (or a spare at all if you didn't bring one).
I changed my trailer to match my jeep, so I actually carry two spares when towing my trailer.
I'm not sure how much I'd let spares weigh into my decision. Carry one, in a pinch (meaning unpluggable damage to two tires) you could move a tire from one rim to another.
8:24 pm
July 15, 2005
Exactly! Building a 60 with 5 on 5.5 creates the week link of the axle on the wheel studs. I can attest to this!!!! If you go to a Dana 60, build it the right way and build it strong as you can. You will never regret it.
Unless you just rip the heck out of a sidewall, you can plug it. I have plugged a 2 inch gash on my sidewall using about 15 plugs; it worked and got me through the trail!!
"lowrider" wrote: isn't having 8 lugs better than having 6 or 5 anyway? why would anyone go down from 8 to 5 or 6 just for fitting rims? i would think that having more lugs the better. would converting to 6 or 5 from 8 make the connection to your wheels weaker? better chance of breaking bolts maybe? i would assume that they put 8 lugs on that axle for a reason and not just for looks? :dunno:
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
8:50 pm
"RobD" wrote:
Unless you just rip the heck out of a sidewall, you can plug it. I have plugged a 2 inch gash on my sidewall using about 15 plugs; it worked and got me through the trail!!
This has been my experience too. We plugged a hole that you could put a golf ball through in Eric's sidewall and he got out and home on it.
12:44 am
"JohnDF" wrote: Don't even mess around...HP D60s front and rear and you'll be set for whatever you want to do now and in the future.
I have a HP44 on the front and wish I had a 60. I break hubs all the time, I bent my "C", and I wish I had went bigger.
What about the idea of buying an older Jeep with the axles you want, swap them and sell the Jeep? Might be cheaper...
12:57 am
July 15, 2005
Probably the best bet. Built YJ's are cheap and a dime a dozen....
"RockinCrawler" wrote: [quote="JohnDF"]Don't even mess around...HP D60s front and rear and you'll be set for whatever you want to do now and in the future.
I have a HP44 on the front and wish I had a 60. I break hubs all the time, I bent my "C", and I wish I had went bigger.
What about the idea of buying an older Jeep with the axles you want, swap them and sell the Jeep? Might be cheaper...
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
12:59 am
Club Member
January 20, 2009
1:25 am
July 15, 2005
You don't have too, but it makes like much better when binding tires in Rocks..There are a lot of guys out there that run stock steering pumps and boxes on 37's
"kevheb" wrote: With a D60 and 37s in front do the power steering components need to be upgraded as well?
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
1:33 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
"RobD" wrote: You don't have too, but it makes like much better when binding tires in Rocks..There are a lot of guys out there that run stock steering pumps and boxes on 37's
I still run the stock steering box. It's a little harder but I don't mind. After all, I drive a 5 speed, I don't need the "EASY BUTTON"
I used to wheel a lot. . .
3:58 am
"JohnDF" wrote: [quote="RobD"]You don't have too, but it makes like much better when binding tires in Rocks..There are a lot of guys out there that run stock steering pumps and boxes on 37's
I still run the stock steering box. It's a little harder but I don't mind. After all, I drive a 5 speed, I don't need the "EASY BUTTON"
Plus, it keeps your arms buff!
6:42 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
How come nobody has mentioned a 9 inch? I know they can be built solid and light and great clearance for front or rear applications. I have a 9 inch front end project I've been tinkering with over the past couple months.
You guys have any thoughts on them?
Currie seems to be building nice new housing designs along with ruff stuff (local) and ballistic.
Um...what?
10:47 am
July 15, 2005
Exactly!!! Keane, post a picture of your arms so he can see what he has to look forward too
"Bender" wrote: [quote="JohnDF"][quote="RobD"]You don't have too, but it makes like much better when binding tires in Rocks..There are a lot of guys out there that run stock steering pumps and boxes on 37's
I still run the stock steering box. It's a little harder but I don't mind. After all, I drive a 5 speed, I don't need the "EASY BUTTON"
Plus, it keeps your arms buff!
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
10:50 am
July 15, 2005
But when you get the high dollar easy steering like me, you just get fat
"RobD" wrote: Exactly!!! Keane, post a picture of your arms so he can see what he has to look forward too
__________________
'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under."- Ronald Reagan
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