They are Craig's list finds. Getting additional information at present. Here are the links:
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/2815052346.html
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/2816399745.html
Would someone just verify these are what I'm looking for. They look like driver's side pumpkins. Not sure what else to be looking for.
Thanks!!
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The first one you posted from a f150 most likely has cast wedges in the housing. Some are weld on some are cast. F150s had radious arms and used wedges. So find that out. If weld on then your good to go.
Same idea with the second one. Find out what vehicle it is out of.
"finder_87" wrote: The first one you posted from a f150 most likely has cast wedges in the housing. Some are weld on some are cast. F150s had radious arms and used wedges. So find that out. If weld on then your good to go.
Same idea with the second one. Find out what vehicle it is out of.
Good info. I recall reading that at one time.
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78-79 are cast you want a 76-77 they were weld on or the f250 with the leaf sprung
I found it for you
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/2819509116.html
"Path 88" wrote: I found it for you
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/2819509116.html
Skip the ball joint...go king pin. 😎
"finder_87" wrote: The first one you posted from a f150 most likely has cast wedges in the housing. Some are weld on some are cast. F150s had radious arms and used wedges. So find that out. If weld on then your good to go.
Same idea with the second one. Find out what vehicle it is out of.
Or maybe it is time for a radius/long arm upgrade.
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ChaChing...I hear the dollar signs stacking up...
Received a reply from the seller ... http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/2815052346.html
He could not find the gear ratio of the differential, but the wedges are welded. The asking price is $500 OBO in Rancho Cordova.
I guess the question now is that a good price? And how much work is there in getting prepped and ready to go in the XJ?
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You will have to get the tubes cut down, possibly replace the tubes if you want stronger, Cs welded back on (correctly), purchase new brackets and have those welded on (correctly), new shafts, new gears, might as well get a locker so you don't pay for a carrier or for re-setting the gears later, brake lines, HD diff cover, and...Front axles aren't cheap!!!
If it was me, I'd shop for a built HPD30 and slap it in. They can be found pretty cheap, and if you decide to upgrade later you can make your money back on it. 🍺
I know everybody wants the biggest and baddest rig on the trail, but if old age has taught me one thing it's that "Good Enough is sometimes Good Enough."
Now if you have plans to run Little Sluice and the Hammers later, you'll have to take that into consideration...
"finder_87" wrote: $500 is too much.
I agree. Custom center sections aren't much more than that.
Hmmmm. Not sure what I was thinking except that a D44 would be more of a "bolt-in" deal than this.
I can build up my existing HP D30 and, more than likely, it will take me wherever I want to go.
Thanks all!!
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Ya, it's not bolt-in unless it's coming out of another XJ or TJ.
I agree with John and Greg. You will spend some $$$ 0n parts and labor. You could run the ford outers if the axle is complete. Replacement cost for the ford stuff is much higher than chevy. The reason I'm looking to upgrade is for strength in the axle tube and a better balljoint design( easier to replace and pre-loadable ) mainly the tube itself as i've killed one before. It makes since for me because i will re-use my arb and other parts if I wanted. The only difference between the jeep d30 and d44 is the carrier and gearset, everything else is shared. Can even do a 30 spline d30. You have the HP 30 which allows the gears to be driven on the drive side which is better than the LP 30 of the TJ. I would look for a built HP 30 that is straight and at a good price. If not, re-gear, balljoints and axle joints in yours and call it a day. With what you described it sounds like your jeep is not too happy with the size and WEIGHT of your new tires. It's making the choice for you. Welcome to jeep hell, now you know why Sue has the plate she does.
"jsmorrow" wrote: With what you described it sounds like your jeep is not too happy with the size and WEIGHT of your new tires. It's making the choice for you. Welcome to jeep hell, now you know why Sue has the plate she does.
No, I've not had any issues to the best of my knowledge. Just got caught up in the "upgrade frenzy". Definitely giving this a rethink after seeing the $$$ to do this correctly.
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"TomD" wrote: [quote="jsmorrow"]With what you described it sounds like your jeep is not too happy with the size and WEIGHT of your new tires. It's making the choice for you. Welcome to jeep hell, now you know why Sue has the plate she does.
No, I've not had any issues to the best of my knowledge. Just got caught up in the "upgrade frenzy". Definitely giving this a rethink after seeing the $$$ to do this correctly.
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Was reading your comments in the hub thread.
"jsmorrow" wrote: [quote="TomD"][quote="jsmorrow"]With what you described it sounds like your jeep is not too happy with the size and WEIGHT of your new tires. It's making the choice for you. Welcome to jeep hell, now you know why Sue has the plate she does.
No, I've not had any issues to the best of my knowledge. Just got caught up in the "upgrade frenzy". Definitely giving this a rethink after seeing the $$$ to do this correctly.
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Was reading your comments in the hub thread.
Ahhh. That was about being proactive and finding all the reasons to have manual hubs. No, the XJ does just fine set up the way it is and I want to be smart about spending $$$ where the most good is done.
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Thanks for the input one and all! For now, I think I'll build my HP D30 as It appears to be the quicker and less $$$ route. So much to do, I need to get some of what I've already started completed before moving on.
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Keep your eyes on the for sale sections. I would bet you could find one built for a lot less than you can build it for.
I looked a bit and found a stock HP D30 for $75. I found an R&P in 4.88 for $100 or best offer (you'd still need the install kit). I found Yukon cromo shafts for $240. I found an ox locker for $600 (not that I like these but I couldn't find an ARB or Eaton on sale). I found a Warn manual hub kit as well. Oh, I also found an internal sleeve kit for $130 delivered.
I don't know what that adds up to, but you could bench build another 30 and then just swap in both.
Consultants are win. 😀
"JohnDF" wrote: Keep your eyes on the for sale sections. I would bet you could find one built for a lot less than you can build it for.
I looked a bit and found a stock HP D30 for $75. I found an R&P in 4.88 for $100 or best offer (you'd still need the install kit). I found Yukon cromo shafts for $240. I found an ox locker for $600 (not that I like these but I couldn't find an ARB or Eaton on sale). I found a Warn manual hub kit as well. Oh, I also found an internal sleeve kit for $130 delivered.
I don't know what that adds up to, but you could bench build another 30 and then just swap in both.
Ha - sorry John! Now I see what's going on. With my new "moderator" rights, I click edit and it overwrites people like John and George. Sorry guys!
Just give John your credit card and he'll take care of you.
"JohnDF" wrote: Oh, I also found an internal sleeve kit for $130 delivered.
I haven't heard of that before. Got any links to more info?
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