JK Talk

Um.......what?

Do you want full hard doors?

I ordered mine to get the 6-speed manual with half doors. If you ever run Fordyce when the flows are higher but passable you may get flooded if you run with no doors.

Just a thought.

I'd like half doors. Is that a cheaper option? I'm curious if I order one, would I get the same pricing in that link?

I waited to get a 2012 because of the new engine.

Gregulator said

I'd like half doors. Is that a cheaper option? I'm curious if I order one, would I get the same pricing in that link?

It was a $0 cost option when I ordered mine.

Half doors are a zero price option if you order a new jeep. They are VERY RARE as you shop through want ads looking for the set up. However half doors did tend to come on lower priced models, meaning less asking price to pick one up. It looks like most with a manual and half doors are in the higher teens. I believe you can buy an ad, half-door manual for something in the lower 20s.

I am fine with my motor. It gets decent mileage and better performance than my TJ.

There is a big difference in upgrades for 37s vs 38s - 40s. More lift, stronger axles, etc. Be sure you are ready to budget for it. 37s are easier and your jeep is still a solid daily driver. If you run 38s, you will ruin your steering so be ready include hydro assist to that budget. My steering was hot and smelly with 37s, so I'm not sure how long it would have lasted if I'd stayed with the smaller tires.

For price, 07's seem to be the most reasonable. They also seem to be the last year with a lot of manuals and half-doored rigs. When my 08 Rubicon was delivered the dealer said they had never seen a Rubicon with half-doors up to that point.

BKGM Jeepers said When my 08 Rubicon was delivered the dealer said they had never seen a Rubicon with half-doors up to that point.

That is what they said about my 12 in any model. [very-happy]

yikes! I looked through carmax and found a couple of half door manuals. Most were high teens...

I'd look for a brand new ad JK. Socal has lots for under 25k.

Dealers crack me up!! They will say anything to make a sale. I remember why I said I never want to buy from a stealership again. I told them exactly what I wanted. The first sales guy said we don't have anything like that on the lot. So he says we can order you one. We walk inside, introduces me to the manager. The manager then tells me that half doors a dumb and I don't want those. This is after they tried to tell me they are only after market and I can't order a jeep with them. I told them they were wrong. I also told them I wanted a manual. They told me that was the worst option for offloading. People don't like manuals anyway. It was an interesting experience.

I drove both a manual and an auto. I know we have a mix of them in the club. What do people think? Which one? I had an auto LJ and always wanted a manual. But after driving the JK manual, my knee was cramped trying to get on and off the clutch. Made me want the auto. I really like the reliability of a manual though. What do you guys think?

At the risk of offending anybody ( ), I like a manual for a daily driver and a manual for wheeling. I really believe that having a manual gives you more control and keeps you from breaking axles (no constant pressure when jammed-up).

JohnDF said

At the risk of offending anybody ( ), I like a manual for a daily driver and a manual for wheeling. I really believe that having a manual gives you more control and keeps you from breaking axles (no constant pressure when jammed-up).

For my off-road experience I opted for an automatic because that way, between the engine and the tires, there is a fluid coupling that can soak up a bit of the stress on the rest of the drivetrain lessening the potential of bending/breaking something. The price you pay with the auto trans is it will tend to run hotter off-road so keeping an eye on temps and having a trans cooler is really important.
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It definitely comes down to personal preference, but I do see less breakage from the manual Jeeps than the auto Jeeps when wheeling in extreme environments.

I was all about the manual. That's what I really want. I'm just concerned about daily comfort. My size 15 shoe and knee need more space. Hmmm...

What suspension systems does everyone recommend? I know Kevin went with Metalcloak's Game Changer. Brad mentioned to me at a meeting that he wasn't happy with his RE kit. What would you do different Brad? Is it the radius arms? I see the newer versions are 4 link.

JohnDF said

It definitely comes down to personal preference, but I do see less breakage from the manual Jeeps than the auto Jeeps when wheeling in extreme environments.

John, having no first hand experience with manuals in off-road conditions for many years, I'd be willing to bet breakdown of the automatics is all about the driver. To much "skinny pedal" will bust things and autos aren't THAT forgiving.

I'm following this post closely as a buddy of mine wants to get a JK and is looking for where to go from purchase. Trying to get him on the forum.

Also, what factory options are best vs. aftermarket? How loaded up should you go?
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Tom said I'd be willing to bet breakdown of the automatics is all about the driver. To much "skinny pedal" will bust things and autos aren't THAT forgiving. =====

It has more to do with getting your front tires jammed into stuff with constant forward pressures.

I am extremely happy with my radius arms. I would only buy RE for their quality and warranty (lifetime warranty on arms and even bushings). Does anyone else offer a lifetime warranty on their joints?

Also now that 4 wheels arts owns them, their products are super easy to warranty or upgrade.

The only thing i truly upgraded was the coilovers up front. The part of my RE system i didnt like was how the track bar brace uses the coil can, so with coilovers the bracket is weakened. I now run synergy there. The arms, bushings and joints all work for me.

That said, i use my jeep for actual off roading and expect it not to fail. So far my only breakage was. That trackbar brace after switching to coilovers. The rest of the time, ive been recovering or fixing others. Thats what i built it for.

JohnDF said

Tom said I'd be willing to bet breakdown of the automatics is all about the driver. To much "skinny pedal" will bust things and autos aren't THAT forgiving. =====

It has more to do with getting your front tires jammed into stuff with constant forward pressures.

Poor driving will break either an auto or a stick. My driving isnt very nice to my rig, but has nothing to do with my tranny. Auto's require all kinds of neat things like brake boosters to help you stop when you have a low crawl ratio. Manual Tranny's do not suffer this problem.

Kevin owns a manual. I own a manual. They work fine. If I bought a new JKU, I'd buy a manual again.

Tom said

JohnDF said

It definitely comes down to personal preference, but I do see less breakage from the manual Jeeps than the auto Jeeps when wheeling in extreme environments.

John, having no first hand experience with manuals in off-road conditions for many years, I'd be willing to bet breakdown of the automatics is all about the driver. To much "skinny pedal" will bust things and autos aren't THAT forgiving.

I'm following this post closely as a buddy of mine wants to get a JK and is looking for where to go from purchase. Trying to get him on the forum.

Also, what factory options are best vs. aftermarket? How loaded up should you go?
=====

Magnussen is outstanding for ordering jeeps. Ive bought mine from Orange coast, Don-A-Vee, Manussen, and Roseville. I'd buy from any of them again, but not Roseville. They new the least about wheeling.

When I bought mine, i factored in what i could resell the take off parts, as well as the upgrades. I could not justify any other model than a rubicon. I sold my rear axle for 650, my front for 2400. I sold my sliders, wheels, shocks and was offered 800 for my e swaybar...

Gregulator said

I was all about the manual. That's what I really want. I'm just concerned about daily comfort. My size 15 shoe and knee need more space. Hmmm...

Don't be intimidated by a manual as a dd. Ive done it for four cars. Never a problem, even in the Bay Area.

Gregulator said

I'd like half doors. Is that a cheaper option? I'm curious if I order one, would I get the same pricing in that link?

Order half doors and a manual. Ordering is the way to go if you plan on keeping your vehicle. Get exactly what you want.

Brad, how come you haven't gone coils in the rear yet? Any reason or just not needed?

I love manuals!! I'm not scared of them. I just don't fit the greatest in a JK. Being 6'6" and heavier then I should be it makes getting my foot on and off the clutch difficult. I sat in a sport today and seemed to fit better. Must have been a different seat. Plus it didn't have power windows.

I can't justify pulling the trigger on a rubicon. My wife is barely okay with the price of the sport. I know I can sell a lot of the parts. I just hate dealing with people.

Also, what's the deal with the tps sensor or wheel sensor? Is that only on the rear axle? What does it hook to, the brakes? Can the front axle be swapped without sensor issues?

TPS sensors are on each wheel/axle end. I run a super chip programmer and have the TPS turned off, but all my VSP and BAM sensors work.

You don’t need a rubicon, just get the base sport and upgrade as you score deals. Getting one in your garage is half the battle! Half doors and a manual, plus AC are probably all you need. You can surf the net to score a rubicon tcase.

I swapped both my axles and kept working sensors. They are based on tone rings.

I dont run rear coilovers because they are not needed. The fronts make a huge difference on ride. The rears are either limited by a sway bar, or your on road ride is impacted. You should ride in Jason’s jeep to see what a properly set up full coilover jeep rides like. Then ride in mine to see how fronts only feel like. Both are good.