10:44 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Figured I might as well start a build thread for this jeep. I have serval questions and thoughts I will layout in this thread for your honest opinions and experiences. Feel free to comment and ask questions. It's how we all learn.
The basics:
2014 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited
3.6L, 6 speed manual with all the rubicon goodies.
Plan:
Eventually, I'd like to be on dynatrac 60s, 40s and a long arm with coilovers. Budget is a concern as of now. I don't intend to think about an axle swap for 5-6 years from now. With that in mind, I'd like to start with a short arm, coilovers, rcvs, chromoly rear shafts, drive shafts, armor, 5.13/5.38s (haven't decided), 38s and beadlocks.
Sounds like a plan right? I'm sure many of you will tell me to forgo the baby steps and just dive head first into the axle swap and 40s. I really wish I could. I totally get the buy once cry once mentality. I'm no baller through. I can't afford a 2014 JKUR and $20k plus in axles, lift, and tires. Once the jeep is paid off, different story. If I really just saved until I could do it, I may not be on the trail for 3 plus years. I'm already becoming restless and I've only had the jeep 4 months.
Um...what?
10:47 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
1:06 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Sweet Jon!! Jon and I were discussing the benefits of going with a long arm vs a stock length control arms on a JK. In the tj world, the benefits are worth the extra cost of a long arm kit. There seems to be differing views in the JK world. One of the big discussions is, does a long arm allow more flex/wheel travel the stock length control arms. Anyone have any thoughts on this topic?
Um...what?
4:42 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
JohnDF said
Interesting. I’ve always heard, even in the TJ world, that optimal is between short and long. So, maybe the JKU arms are perfect.
I would say, yes even TJ long arms are considered too long and shorter would be optimal. Maybe JK arms are the best of both worlds.
Everything I’ve researched says that regarding a JK, stock length arms work well up to a 4″ lift. Anything over a 4″ lift will compromise suspension and handling geometry. I will test this, because at the last meeting at OTRT, I scored some Currie arms for my build!! I’m super pumped!!
Um...what?
4:22 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
So...I know thus build thread is not exciting. I agree. I'm still in the saving phase/researching mad I'm coming across things daily that make me change my mind about my original plans.
It seems that there is a lot more support out there for junkyard axle builds. I see I can get tone rings for a 14 bolt now!! I've been following a few builds and it looks pretty simple. Is it tacky to throw junkyard axles at a 2014? Lol!!
I still haven't settled on building my stock axles for now. I just can't make up my mind.
Um...what?
12:04 am
Club Member
January 19, 2011
7:04 am
Club Member
June 4, 2012
9:58 am
Club President
April 2, 2003
The main complaint I’ve heard about junk yard axles is the electronics problems, which it sounds like you’ve solved. So who cares!
Also be sure you cut them to standard length for drop in shafts and not a custom length, unless you’re going full width, which may look kind of silly under a new jeep.
Whoa! hold on a minute! Didn't you just get a BIG PROMO at work??!!! I expect Dynatrak axles now!!!!
11:17 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
11:17 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
11:19 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
BKGM Jeepers said
The main complaint I’ve heard about junk yard axles is the electronics problems, which it sounds like you’ve solved. So who cares!
Also be sure you cut them to standard length for drop in shafts and not a custom length, unless you’re going full width, which may look kind of silly under a new jeep.
Whoa! hold on a minute! Didn't you just get a BIG PROMO at work??!!! I expect Dynatrak axles now!!!!
I wish!! aren't you on fullsize axles?
Um...what?
11:27 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
New question for you newer JK owners...Seems like quiet a few of the aftermarket bumpers require cutting/trimming the frame rails. Does this concern anyone? Both of the bumpers I am looking at, front and rear require cutting the frame. Should I be worried? I guess my only concern would be that later, I might want to change my bumpers, would this keep me from being able to run other aftermarket bumpers.
Here are the bumpers I'm thinking about ordering:
Um...what?
1:49 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
Gregulator said
New question for you newer JK owners…Seems like quiet a few of the aftermarket bumpers require cutting/trimming the frame rails. Does this concern anyone? Both of the bumpers I am looking at, front and rear require cutting the frame. Should I be worried? I guess my only concern would be that later, I might want to change my bumpers, would this keep me from being able to run other aftermarket bumpers.
Here are the bumpers I’m thinking about ordering:
Front
http://shop.poisonspyder.com/J.....-020-b.htm
Rear
I’ve run two different bumpers on the rear and two different bumpers on the front. None ever required any frame cutting/modifications. I did need to trim the rear bumper itself to clear my larger tires however…
1:52 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
The JK frame rails are wide enough to fit a winch down in between them, greatly lowering their related weight-center of gravity. It surprises me how few companies actually take advantage of that design opportunity.
TJs couldn't fit a winch in between but JKs were specifically designed for that. Yet some manufacturers still failed to design that benefit in to their product...
2:24 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
BKGM Jeepers said
The JK frame rails are wide enough to fit a winch down in between them, greatly lowering their related weight-center of gravity. It surprises me how few companies actually take advantage of that design opportunity.
TJs couldn't fit a winch in between but JKs were specifically designed for that. Yet some manufacturers still failed to design that benefit in to their product...
According to the research I've done on this, is that certain manufactures say their design requires extra bracing for strength and that is why they don't have a lowered winch mount. The BFH bumper I posted trims the frame for "approach angle".
Brad, (and Kevin) did you cut your crash bar off?
Um...what?
3:29 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
I can but why would I want to? It protects the auto sway bar disconnect motor. I guess I could revert to a manual sway bar (like an ORO) and make the change. However, I don't see how much that would benefit the approach angle. My bumper also comes down to the mount and protects the motor so I could cut that crash bar off but I wouldn't gain anything since my bumper basically covers it.
I don't like dash lights so I'd need to see if the sway bar light will blink continuously if I were to disconnect it (like if I replaced it).
Cutting the crash bar off doesn't weaken the frame structure but putting a whinch down in between the frame is weaker than on top of it? The only difference from location appears to be "bolts on top of the frame" versus "bolts on the bottom of the frame". Since JK frames are boxed and not C channel, there shouldn't be a difference based on location of the winch, but rather how the actual mount is designed. The flat mount design follows how TJs (and YJs and CJS) were mounted. Mine is mounted via bolts to the top, bottom and sides. It is far stronger than any of the TJ designs I dealt with, but may not be as strong as some other JK designs. My TJ winch mount was the 4 recovery hook bolts. That's all that held it together.
7:40 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
My bumper required cutting off the crash bar. No cutting of the frame. The 3/16th metal of the bumper is strong than the thin metal of the crash bar. Any bumper with a recessed winch will require cutting off the vacuum assist bracket on 2012+. Mine has a winch mounting plate above the bottom plate of the bumper. Also, I don't have the sway bar disconnect. I have seen a kit where you can rotate the sway bar disconnect up higher.
8:43 pm
Club President
April 2, 2003
k-jeep said
My bumper required cutting off the crash bar. No cutting of the frame. The 3/16th metal of the bumper is strong than the thin metal of the crash bar. Any bumper with a recessed winch will require cutting off the vacuum assist bracket on 2012+. Mine has a winch mounting plate above the bottom plate of the bumper. Also, I don't have the sway bar disconnect. I have seen a kit where you can rotate the sway bar disconnect up higher.
Kevin brings up a good point. Mine is an 08 so i didnt have to cut off or relocate stuff. New jeeps do however...
9:04 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
9:06 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
9:13 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
k-jeep said
I just noticed you have the WeatherTech mats. Have your labels peeled off yet?
My labels didn't last long. Still great floor mats though.
I haven't noticed, I'll have to take a look tomorrow.
I did throw a check engine light on Saturday though. P0140, o2 sensor or loose wire. Took it into the dealer and used my warranty. Only took them two days to get it squared away. They gave my computer a new flash as well. Have you had any updates done to your jeep Kevin?
Um...what?
12:40 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
4:55 pm
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Update:
I tried to change my avatar, but apparently the picture i have is to big. I'm not savvy enough to re-size it...
Next, The tags on my weather tech mats have not fallen off yet.
Last update, if you have a JK, i guess every 7-8k miles, the dash will tell you that you need to change your oil. To reset this warning light or code, you have to turn your key to the on position without starting the motor, then press the gas pedal 3 times in 10 seconds. Then, you are all good!!
I'll keep you updated as the build progresses.
Um...what?
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