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2:11 am
April 23, 2012
OfflineAll That black stuff is grease - I know ive needed a new front drive shaft since forever but I guess now it has to happen. My question is with all these grease (and to me it seems to be a large amount - did I screw anything on the transfer case as well or is it an easy throw a new drive shaft in and all should be good?
Any recommendations on a front drives haft
Sorry for the crappy phone pics
2:54 am

Club Member
September 3, 2008
OfflineIt's hard to see what is going on in the photos. Can you explain it? Is there a lot of grease on the tcase? Is the driveshaft bone dry? Does it look like its seeping from the tcase? Or is it splatter from the driveshaft?
I bought a driveshaft through Northridge4x4.com. Free shipping and no tax and it came from San Luis obispo area. Most online dealers will be able to do jeep driveshafts. Local driveshaft places will be over prices in my experience.
Um...what?
3:50 am

Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline3:54 am
I think your tcase is a 231?
These tcases carry oil. It appears to me, but not complete sure, but possibly you have some weeping of tcase fluid up there. It comes out and onto the driveshaft and gets flung. To me that appears to be small amount. I'd wipe it down clean as best as you can and monitor it.
Other option, but I'm not sure, is if there is a ujoint there b/t the yokes? driveshaft to tcase
if so the ujoint might have a zerk fitting such that you can add grease to the ujoint or that ujoint is toast and needs replacing.
This means driveshaft is fine.
Again, just based on the pictures you got.
4:38 am
Ok, I think I see what you got...a nv241. See this thread. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/what- ... ne-854790/
This picture look like your configuration?
Added Rzeppa Joint Configuration version
[Image Can Not Be Found]
5:25 am
April 23, 2012
Offlineim pretty sure 241 sounds familiar - and my drive shaft looks nothing like that it hs no u joints at the transfer case. It just drops down to a real small shaft and goes into the transfer case - there is one boot in the middle of the driveshaft that covers some part that looks like a spline drive
ok i just looked at the link and my transfer case is fixed flange with expandable spline driven drive shaft. about half way down the page from the link it shows a Rzeppa Joint - thats what i have and mine also looks maxed out like that. Mine must be leaking form that boot where the shaft enters the flange - Hopefully i can just replace the drive shaft, that boot, and figure out if that section just needs to be repacked with grease or just refill the T Case with oil if thats how its lubed.
Thanks for the help Carl
6:27 am

Club Member
January 19, 2011
OfflineJohn this happened to my JK as well. The stock rubber boots fail at extreme angles. Then the grease is ejected. It is cheaper to upgrade your driveline than replace the OEM part.
Drive Line Service of Sacramento does good work. 916 371-3332
http://www.drive-lines.com
They build it. You install it. Saves $$ this way. It is an easy part to change out. Easy to access.
Semper Fi
2:31 pm

Club President
April 2, 2003
Offline"LJ3" wrote: FWIW I would upgrade to a SYE on the T-case side. (if its a Rubicon its the Roc-Track NP 241) and get a new drive shaft with a slip joint at the axle end of the shaft. This is the set up I have and it seems to work really well.
JKU's don't require a SLE. They have the wheelbase to prevent the vibrations. Plus the new rubi cases come with driveline mounting plates on each end of the T-case so it's flat surface to flat surface (Rubicon models only).
I'm not sure what the problem is in the pictures here. my looks the same but I have aftermarket CV drivelines and it is grease on my jeep you see. It happens each time I grease the DL u-joints.
If you are running a stock front driveline, I'd consider upgrading because of your current lift.
Kathleen and Brad
10:46 pm
"Josh" wrote:
Drive Line Service of Sacramento does good work. 916 371-3332
http://www.drive-lines.comThey build it. You install it. Saves $$ this way. It is an easy part to change out. Easy to access.
I'd recommend Drive Line Service of Sac as well. They took really good care of me but I was having them make something custom so you may have better luck with a more off the shelf part.
12:48 am
April 23, 2012
OfflineThis is the unit i have been looking at for quite some time - the JE REEL unit - Any issues with this or do you think it would be better to have drive line sac build me one
http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/j-e-r ... atic-trans
I have also considered the Coast unit i cant really tell the difference and the descriptions are less then helpful to me i just know someone who got a JE unit for his and it worked great
http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/coast ... rive-shaft
4:49 am

Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline2:40 pm

Club President
April 2, 2003
Offline"scoped" wrote: Called up Sac Drive line and it was no cheaper and the guy i was talking too didnt have much information on what components it was made from or what length range it had
Sac driveline fabs their own stuff. Length is as long as you want. You provide the measurements and the yokes you need on each end (or tell them the year/model of your jeep) and they do the rest. I've never had a DLS driveline fail, and I've had them do some rebuild work too. My current DL's are some bolt in aftermarket brand and they work fine...
Kathleen and Brad
3:01 pm
January 27, 2011
Offline4:17 pm

Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline4:40 pm

Club President
April 2, 2003
Offline4:59 pm

Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline10:59 pm
"finder_87" wrote: I don't recommend you make your own. Unless you have the ability to balance it and welding skills. I've made many drive lines and I would not run them on a daily driver unless they are balanced.
If it's a front and you have hubs you can disengage it so it doesn't spin. Makes it a pain for higher speed 4 wheeling but it is doable in a daily driver.
I drove the Hammers on a homemade (in camp) driveline.





