4:55 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline
Which axles would you buy?
- Dynatrac Prorock 60s
- Dana Ultimate 60s
Help me choose between these two axle brands...
Both are about the same money and come with pretty comprable components.
http://www.rivercityoffroad.com/Ultimate-Dana-60-Package-Includes-1350-Driveline-p/ud60pkg.htm
I used to wheel a lot. . .
6:25 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline I tried to post a poll, but I "failed" 🙁
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on one of these axle sets but want to be sure I make the right decision.
Prorock pros: ARB locker option, super beefy brackets and high quality welding, steering included, Dynatrac ball joints, ram assist bracketry, includes an adapter for the parking brakes.
Ultimate 60 Pros: Larger u-joints, larger brakes, comes with drive lines, probably a "slightly" stronger unit besides the locker and welds/brackets.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
12:32 am
Club Member
January 20, 2009
Offline JohnDF said
I tried to post a poll, but I "failed" 🙁
Fixed! Had to make a code change in the plugin.
12:49 am
Club Member
January 20, 2009
Offline Wow, tough choice. 4 years ago that Dynatrac set would have been over $17K. I know because that's what I was quoted at the time for similar specs. Oh, and Currie was only $600 less at the time and required reusing the stock JK brakes. They were both surprised that I wanted 8-lug at the time. Glad there are more options now.
6:40 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Thanks for fixing the poll Kevin.
I know, it's a tough choice for sure. I don't think I could go wrong with either set, which makes it tougher.
I do have a question about wheels though. Will I be able to run 17" wheels with the Dana's bigger brakes? Because I will have to keep my 37" tires for a while.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
7:35 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline You can use most 17" wheels...Some do not clear. I know Trailready, Walker Evans and KMC or ATX beadlocks will clear the larger brakes. But I have heard of wheels not fitting too.
Um...what?
12:16 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
Offline It may depend on the backspacing with 17s. I have 18s with 4.5BS and don't think that same wheel would fit in 17s with the same BS and tape weights. I'd have to measure to confirm.
2:51 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Questions: If I go with the UD60s
1. What else will I need besides the drive lines and brake lines that come with it.
2. Can the lockers be wired to the factory dash buttons? I know it's not the best but it would be cool.
3. Is there any short-comings (weaknesses) that I need to be aware of with these axles?
I used to wheel a lot. . .
4:35 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
Offline Looking at the details on the prorocks that is a really tough one. I voted for UD60s for two reasons. 1 inner Cs are larger, and 2 brake parts can be had at any parts store. Note I voted this way assuming you are keeping this rig forever and thus servicing with be your problem.
5:35 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline kris_olof said
Looking at the details on the prorocks that is a really tough one. I voted for UD60s for two reasons. 1 inner Cs are larger, and 2 brake parts can be had at any parts store. Note I voted this way assuming you are keeping this rig forever and thus servicing with be your problem.
Good insights.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
5:36 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Gregulator said
You can use most 17" wheels...Some do not clear. I know Trailready, Walker Evans and KMC or ATX beadlocks will clear the larger brakes. But I have heard of wheels not fitting too.
That's my biggest problem with the UD60s right now, everybody lists beadlocks that will fit and I don't want to pony up for beadlocks. That would add significantly to the cost. I'm having a hard time finding 17 inch wheels that will work with these axles.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
11:26 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline JohnDF said
Questions: If I go with the UD60s1. What else will I need besides the drive lines and brake lines that come with it.
2. Can the lockers be wired to the factory dash buttons? I know it's not the best but it would be cool.
3. Is there any short-comings (weaknesses) that I need to be aware of with these axles?
1. They don't come with brake lines, that is a separate purchase.
2. I heard they can be wired to the factory switches but I've also heard they can be tricky.
3. Front track bar bracket.
My suggestion would be to call Marcus at River City Off Road or Northridge 4x4 and ask them for details. They have done the swaps themselves on several rigs and can get you all the info you would want.
Um...what?
4:22 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
Offline JohnDF said
Thanks for the info Greg.I've been on the phone with WFO and they said I shouldn't have a problem with getting non-beadlock wheels to fit.
One more question... Do you forsee any problems with these axles being installed on a short arm lift?
That is a question best directed at Kevin since he has the UD60s and a Metal Cloak short arm kit.
5:08 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline The price to get this done is climbing higher than I expected. I'm up to $20,000+. A little more than I was expecting. I may need to save for a little longer to get it all done.
The plan: UD60 axles, reinforce all the brackets and replace the track bar bracket with the Synergy unit, 4.5" Synergy long arm upgrade, hydro steering, 1350 drive lines, fender trimming, 17 inch trail ready beadlocks, and 40 inch Toyos.
Until then I'll throw some quality shafts in my axles to get me out on the trails.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
6:11 pm
Club Member
January 19, 2011
Offline JohnDF said
The price to get this done is climbing higher than I expected. I'm up to $20,000+. A little more than I was expecting.
Caution. It just keeps climbing!
Its an investment in fun! Yolo
Semper Fi
6:19 pm
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Josh said
JohnDF said
The price to get this done is climbing higher than I expected. I'm up to $20,000+. A little more than I was expecting.Caution. It just keeps climbing!
Its an investment in fun! Yolo
Maybe I'll take my wife out wheeling, hammer it up a ledge, break all my junk, take forever to get off the trail, and say, "was that worth saving $20,000" 🙂
I used to wheel a lot. . .
7:00 pm
Club Trailmaster
March 13, 2015
Offline Not to throw more fuel onto the fire that is your wallet but Tom Woods just released a 1410 CV if you want to go even bigger.
9:39 pm
Club Member
January 20, 2009
Offline JohnDF said
The price to get this done is climbing higher than I expected. I'm up to $20,000+. A little more than I was expecting. I may need to save for a little longer to get it all done.The plan: UD60 axles, reinforce all the brackets and replace the track bar bracket with the Synergy unit, 4.5" Synergy long arm upgrade, hydro steering, 1350 drive lines, fender trimming, 17 inch trail ready beadlocks, and 40 inch Toyos.
Until then I'll throw some quality shafts in my axles to get me out on the trails.
If you want to go UD60s AND get on the trails now, you just need axles w/parking brake lines, drive lines, and wheels (keeping the 37s for now). What are the specs on the Trail Ready wheels, and can you find a similar spec non-beadlock for less?
I ran for a year without hydro. Even did a Rubicon day run with the stock tie rod and drag link on the UD60s. I also run hybrid 1310/1350 drive lines which, at the time, saved around $300-$500 (can't remember exactly) from DLSac.
Also remember, my brackets broke attempting a Fordicon run. Although, reinforcing them should be one of the least expensive items. We have welders in the club (people and equipment). 🙂
My suspension is not a long arm so no issues there.
5:05 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline k-jeep said
If you want to go UD60s AND get on the trails now, you just need axles w/parking brake lines, drive lines, and wheels (keeping the 37s for now). What are the specs on the Trail Ready wheels, and can you find a similar spec non-beadlock for less?
I ran for a year without hydro. Even did a Rubicon day run with the stock tie rod and drag link on the UD60s. I also run hybrid 1310/1350 drive lines which, at the time, saved around $300-$500 (can't remember exactly) from DLSac.
Also remember, my brackets broke attempting a Fordicon run. Although, reinforcing them should be one of the least expensive items. We have welders in the club (people and equipment). 🙂
My suspension is not a long arm so no issues there.
I know, I appreciate all the help you guys have given me.
I'm still crunching the numbers and will figure out a way to get it done.
I know I'm going to do it, it's just scary spending that much money.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
8:44 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline Found some wheels that should work. They are Method brand and have 4.5" backspacing and a 131mm hub bore.
I used to wheel a lot. . .
7:17 am
Club Member
September 3, 2008
Offline Think of all the money you will make selling your stock stuff!!
Um...what?
7:37 am
Club Member
July 10, 2003
Offline I'm going to get this DONE in the next few weeks. Thanks everybody for helping me make up my mind. I think the UD60s are the best option for me.
I will make sure all the welds are inspected, the track bar mount is replaced with a heavier unit, and make sure the hubs are tight. Am I missing anything?
I used to wheel a lot. . .
8:42 am
Club Member
January 20, 2009
Offline JohnDF said
I'm going to get this DONE in the next few weeks. Thanks everybody for helping me make up my mind. I think the UD60s are the best option for me.I will make sure all the welds are inspected, the track bar mount is replaced with a heavier unit, and make sure the hubs are tight. Am I missing anything?
Cool! When you get them I can help point out what to look at. 
4:51 pm
Club Member
January 19, 2011
Offline JohnDF said
I'm going to get this DONE in the next few weeks. Thanks everybody for helping me make up my mind. I think the UD60s are the best option for me.
Awesome! Can't wait to see the finished build!
Semper Fi
6:06 pm
Club Member
July 14, 2016
Offline JohnDF said
I'm going to get this DONE in the next few weeks. Thanks everybody for helping me make up my mind. I think the UD60s are the best option for me.I will make sure all the welds are inspected, the track bar mount is replaced with a heavier unit, and make sure the hubs are tight. Am I missing anything?
Very interesting to watch the thought process involved here. You guys amaze me with your research and knowledge. I wish I had a fraction of your mechanical skill and knowledge.
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