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1979 Ford high pinion Dana 60 build for a TJ
September 9, 2009
8:13 pm
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RobD
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When you changed your power steering fluid, did you drain the entire system or just drain the RS and refill with Amsoil?

"FAM" wrote: I think Amsoil's power steering fluid is universal. I don't recall seeing different types.

If you don't already have a preferred Amsoil dealer, Bill in the club is a dealer. His website is http://www.offroadsyntheticoil.com/

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September 9, 2009
9:34 pm
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Fred
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I just drained the reservoir. I had intentions to do it again to clear out more of the old fluid but haven't gotten around to it.

September 10, 2009
12:05 am
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The power steering fluid is universal. You can mix traditional and synthetic fluid but it would be a better idea to completly replace wit synthetic. Amsoil is compatible with :

Applications
AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Power Steering Fluid meets or exceeds motor vehicle specifications for use in GM, Chrysler, Honda, Ford, Volkswagen, Mercedes, Saab, Subaru and Audi applications. Please see the AMSOIL auto and light truck lookup guide for more information pertaining to your specific application.

* Ford 9M2C138-CJ, M2C33-F & ESW-M2C128-C&D
* Volkswagen TL-VW-570-26 & TL-52146
* GM 9985010 Saginaw Power Steering Systems
* DaimlerChrysler MS1872 & MS5931F
* American Motor Corporation C4124
* Navistar TMS 6810
* Acura/Honda
* Mercedes Benz
* Saab
* Subaru
* Audi

If you have any questions let me know

Thanks Bill

I will be at the camping trip this weekend.

October 7, 2009
1:56 am
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RobD
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Shocks are gone, they went out with todays trash..I hated throwing away new shocks, but no one needed them..

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October 28, 2009
9:32 pm
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RobD
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I found another issue with running 40 inch tires on 1/2 ton wheel studs (1/2 inch), "They bend" 😯 I thought that I bent my driveshaft after the last Rubicon run because I was getting death wobble and what I thought was driveline vibration, but it turns out that I bent all the studs on both front wheels and one of the rear wheels. Next option is I’m going to have the front rotors drilled out for 9/16th studs, and I will have to send my rear Dutchman shafts back to the factory to have them drilled for 9/16th since they are Chromalloy shafts. No way to drill them myself πŸ™

That’s another $200 or so dollars..40 inch tires are a lot of fun, but they are becoming a pain in my you know what.

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October 28, 2009
10:26 pm
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JohnDF
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You can blame it on the 40s...but I know it was the run through the Little Sluice 8)

I used to wheel a lot. . .

October 28, 2009
10:48 pm
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Fred
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Wow. Did the lugnuts work loose and allow the studs to be bent? Or did they bend from the rotational forces?

October 29, 2009
12:53 am
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Dan-H
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Rob *IS* The Parts Destroyer.

Closed Mondays.

October 29, 2009
1:03 am
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That's pretty impressive. Sounds like all around it's a good idea to stick to 8 lug stuff when you start going that big. Cheaper and stronger.

October 29, 2009
1:10 am
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RobD
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"FAM" wrote: Wow. Did the lugnuts work loose and allow the studs to be bent? Or did they bend from the rotational forces?

It was pure rotational force. 1/2 inch studs just can't handle the load .

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October 29, 2009
1:15 am
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RobD
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"Bender" wrote: That's pretty impressive. Sounds like all around it's a good idea to stick to 8 lug stuff when you start going that big. Cheaper and stronger.

You have no idea! 8 lug is the only way to go. It is a ton stronger, and would have saved me close to 2K on the front axle cost!!!'. Live and learn !!!!!

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November 3, 2009
10:19 pm
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RobD
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Turns out that not only were the studs bent, but the Dana 60 axle shaft was also bent 😯

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November 3, 2009
10:26 pm
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Fred
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Wow, lug studs, transmission, axleshafts. No way do I want to step up to 40's!

November 3, 2009
10:27 pm
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"RobD" wrote: Turns out that not only were the studs bent, but the Dana 60 axle shaft was also bent 😯

Wow, that sucks.

November 4, 2009
3:12 am
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RobD
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John will tell you that it was my entire fault; I was hammering my Jeep on my second run up soup bowl. I was getting all 4 wheels off the ground and slamming against a rock on the driver rear. The same rock that bashed in my crusher corners. Slamming against that rock is what bent the axle shaft. The alloy shaft bent almost an inch between the bearing and the wheel flange πŸ˜€ I guess if you play hard, you better have a big wallet. That last trip through Soup bowl is going to cost me a $1000 dollars by time I am all done 😯

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November 4, 2009
3:16 am
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Fred
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You need to find out what the Winch Hill 4 guys use. They've always put on a good show on Winch Hill 5 at the end of the Sierra Trek days, and they seem to keep their rigs together.

November 4, 2009
3:18 am
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JohnDF
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First trip through Soup bowl...Free
Second trip through Soup Bowl...$1,000
Having John spot you through obstacles...priceless mr-green

I used to wheel a lot. . .

November 4, 2009
3:19 am
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JohnDF
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"FAM" wrote: You need to find out what the Winch Hill 4 guys use. They've always put on a good show on Winch Hill 5 at the end of the Sierra Trek days, and they seem to keep their rigs together.

Winch Hill 5 is child's play and not a very hard obstacle.

I used to wheel a lot. . .

November 4, 2009
3:21 am
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Fred
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"JohnDF" wrote: [quote="FAM"]You need to find out what the Winch Hill 4 guys use. They've always put on a good show on Winch Hill 5 at the end of the Sierra Trek days, and they seem to keep their rigs together.

Winch Hill 5 is child's play and not a very hard obstacle.

Yeah, but the WH4 guys are bouncing off their rev limiters and the rocks and getting plenty of air time.

November 4, 2009
3:36 am
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JohnDF
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Seen 'em...You should have been there the day Rob and I raced up Winch Hill 4 and 5 lol

I used to wheel a lot. . .

April 1, 2010
2:11 am
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RobD
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I got the front of my Jeep lowered to 3.5 inch springs today. Sunday the rear comes down to 3 inch springs..My Jeep now sits lower than it did when I was sitting on 37 inch tires. It is a tight fit up front for the front axle, but everything stuffs with no clearance issues.

[Image Can Not Be Found]

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April 1, 2010
2:43 am
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Lookn good. 8)

April 1, 2010
2:57 am
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No body lift right? So 40s with 3.5" of lift? Very nice. 8)

April 1, 2010
3:13 am
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RobD
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I still have the 1 inch body lift in there to make room for the Atlas. I might remove the body lift and keep the 1 inch motor lift though. I will have to cut a hole in my floor board then build a small enclosure on the driver floor back near the seat for the corner of the Atlas case. Shouldn't be to much work and I really won't lose any floor space. there will just be a raised section that won't interfere with my feet. Then I will be at a true 3.5 inches of lift. I am looking at raising my track bar mount to see if I could have enough clearance to get down to a 2 or 2.5 inch lift.

My drag link already angles down to the Pittman arm from the steering arm instead of up like it should πŸ˜•

"Bender" wrote: No body lift right? So 40s with 3.5" of lift? Very nice. 8)

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April 7, 2010
3:23 am
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RobD
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This is with 3 1/2 inch springs

[Image Can Not Be Found]
Shot with Canon PowerShot SX210 IS at 2010-04-06

My drag link actually goes down from the steering arm to the pitman arm

[Image Can Not Be Found]
Shot with Canon PowerShot SX210 IS at 2010-04-06

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